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"Another" Flathead Question, bore vs stroke

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 50 Ford 1963, Dec 13, 2006.

  1. Is Joe actually testing on an engine dyno these days? Or are his figures using his software tools? I'm not against the software tools (Hell, thats the business I'm in!), but also would like to see what the dyno says.

    I'm looking for a good engine dyno shop in the Columbus, OH area -- want to spend some time seeing how things work out with two different blown flatheads. Anybody have any experience/recommendations for Dyno shops?
     
  2. RE: Price . . .

    Can't beat the price that Joe at RoadRunner is charging -- I'm surprised he's still that cheap.

    I may not like the looks of his as much as a 4-71, but if I was on a budget and didn't like to fabricate all kinds of silly crap, I'd probably go his route. He has a fantastic reputation for service . . . which sure doesn't hurt any either.

    I'm fortunate to have bought a couple blower manifolds from Barney Navarro before he sold out - so I'll be going the 4-71 route. I've also picked up a couple 3-71s - might build a couple setups for others who are running smaller cube motors and would like a 3-71. I like the original engine that Barney Navarro built with a 3-71 and 4 stromberg 48's on it --- just saw a great picture in the recent Rodder's Journal (check it out!). Lots of blower options, all comes down to personal taste and pocket book!
     
  3. Hey Mate,

    Looks pretty trad to me...

    Danny
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Straightpipes
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,084

    Straightpipes
    Member

    I like to use stock heads. Aluminum is mainly for looks. Stock heads are stronger and have less problems with gasket leakage. With all steel expansion and contraction rates are the same. Not that I'm against aluminum as I run them myself. Some aluminum heads run cooler I suppose. I've got a built 8BA with stock heads. Looks pretty good with the chrome acorn nuts
     
  5. CheatersPete
    Joined: Sep 25, 2002
    Posts: 1,294

    CheatersPete
    Member

    I'm running a 255 french flathead with stock everythings, exept cam (3/4 isky) and valves are milodon but stock size. edelbrock .425 heads

    Got a 4/71 with 2 big 94, 6 PSI, moded chevy dizzy with pertronix.

    Rev easy after 5000rpm...
    Have drive to england this summer with no probs!


    Got 232 HP on flywheel at the last dyno.

    My new short block :
    286ci
    4inch crank (french flat , dynamic tested)
    CAT rods
    Ross piston 3/8
    1.6 intake valves
    1.56 exhaust valves
    Blower cam
    isky springs
    full ported and gasket matched


    hope to get 300HP with this new short block

    Will see next summer!
     
  6. Hey, thanks for the picture. I haven't seen a RoadRunner kit that wasn't fully pollished. I do like that, I may have to call and see if he can put me together a kit that uses the 2" drive pulleys.
     
  7. cbndrhsr
    Joined: Sep 14, 2005
    Posts: 46

    cbndrhsr
    Member
    from Layton, UT

    I think that I'm gonna go for the stock heads that have been HPC'd just because I haven't seen that before, and because HPC is just down the road 1/2 hour. Their finish couldn't hurt in the combustion chamber either although I've read an article which wasn't too keen on coatings, or should I say cost vs. performance. This has been a very informing thread for me as I initally planned to go 5/16" and 1/8"" on crank.Is the bottom line consenses stay with a 4" stroke because that additional 1/8 not worth the money for what you get for it? Thanks!!
     
  8. You have it about right . . . the last 8 - 10 cubes aren't worth putting another $200 in the crank, buying a set of 1.998 21A/91A or H-Beam rods, etc.. You're betting off saving the money for a blower, better ignition, better CAM, etc..
     
  9. Now the next question I have, anyone got any good recomendations on where to buy my engine parts? Pistons, rings, bearings, valves, lifters, seals, etc.

    I'm looking for inexpensive parts, not "cheap" stuff.

    Thanx,
    Todd
     
  10. blown49
    Joined: Jul 25, 2004
    Posts: 2,212

    blown49
    Member Emeritus

    Prolly can't go wrong ordering from Red's Headers. Good people to deal with and as honest as the day is long.
     
  11. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Longer stroke is more than money...higher piston speeds, more side thrust, rod angles are negatives, more inches a positive. Where to draw the line is a matter of opinion. Four inches seems long enough to me, even with the long rods in a flathead.
     
  12. cbndrhsr
    Joined: Sep 14, 2005
    Posts: 46

    cbndrhsr
    Member
    from Layton, UT

    Thanks Bruce, I believe I'll stay with the 4" crank. I didn't think the additional 1/8"" would make that big of a difference.I value your opinion so 4" it will be. CBN
     
  13. Go 4-71 man, you won't regret it.

    I did and the difference was AMAZING....

    PM me if ya want some finer details.

    Rat
     
  14. I agree! If you're new to buying flathead parts, go with somebody like Red's who is a small shop, will handle everything and they're willing to talk and discuss things along the way -- great to do business with!
     
  15. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    Are Red & Marilyn still answering the phones? He sold the place a while back...

    Anyone order from them recently (last 3 mos)? If so, how was service?
     
  16. Pete1
    Joined: Aug 23, 2004
    Posts: 2,262

    Pete1
    Member
    from Wa.

    Costwise, figure everything you make minus 10% to live on.
     

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