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another frame painting ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by sawbuck, Nov 15, 2009.

  1. sawbuck
    Joined: Oct 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,913

    sawbuck
    Member
    from 06492 ct

    painting my frame....i searched but no answers....when using por 15,ch***is saver or ch***is black.....when to use filler on pitting and small dings...before or after? do i paint then scuff the paint and fill the imperfections and paint again? or fill over bare metal and then paint? thanks sawbuck
     
  2. chevyshack
    Joined: Dec 28, 2008
    Posts: 950

    chevyshack
    Member

    Ive used Ch***is Savor before. Its a single stage paint rust buster. POR-15 is not. Its a 3 stage i believe. Ch***is Savor works great as long as your metal is clean. So if you plan on using bondo to smooth out your frame you"ll have to smooth it after the ch***is savor dries. Has to be applied over bare metal.
     
  3. chevyshack
    Joined: Dec 28, 2008
    Posts: 950

    chevyshack
    Member

    P.S. Dont get it on your skin or good clothes. Took weeks for it to wear off my arms where it dripped over my gloves. Still on my work paints 4 years later.
     
  4. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,334

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj

    POR-15 is really tough to get things to stick to. While it would be a good idea to use it to seal the ch***is first, then fill imperfections, it isn't easy to do. You'd have to really sand the pits well, for the bondo to stick. And if it isn't scuffed deep in the pits, it may fall out when yousand it, because it didin't adhere well.
    If the frame has been blasted, and it rust free, even inside the pits, I'd fill it first, then POR-15 or use another product over it. I've done this befire, and POR makes a great "primer" for a ch***is, very tough and waterproof. You just need to topcoat it with either paint or POR's ch***is paint. It breaks dwon in UV light, not that a ch***is will see that, but it's good protection and looks good.
    If painting over POR, put you paint on just when the POR gets tacky, not wet, not dry. If it dries, you need to recoat in 24 hours, or sand it well, or use POR's TieCoat to get paint to stick to it.
    ANd no I don't work for POR-15, I've been using it for over 20 years. And personally I prefer Master Series Coatings version of this chemistry, but use them interchangeably.
     

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