I am in the process of turning a nice ol' Henry J (thanks Danny) into a gasser. I plan to take good pics of the build and I also plan to ask a lot of question here. I have found a ton of good information here doing research but I'm sure there will be a lot of quick questions to save a lot of time looking. The first order of business is to fight off the urge to repair brakes and drive the car a while with the little flathead four. It runs so good! That would be just wasted time as the front cap is coming off to get at the suspension to install a straight front axle. Now one question, what is best, use the existing frame up front or cut it and use 2 x 4 tubing for a new one? I probably will use a smallblock Chevy engine although I have a 292 6 cylinder that's tempting me. The rear end will be replaced with a 9 inch ford using coilover shocks and ladder bars. I'm always open to suggestions and I take criticism well. LOL Jackie
Good looking J! I've seen the front ends done both ways. Building with new tubing is more work but looks cleaner and if you taper the tubing at the front it looks much less clunky.
I usually get in a hurry but I'm trying to make haste slowly. I wonder if there's a market for the little four cylinder engine and transmission. Runs great.
Yours is a lot nicer then I started with. I used the stock frame but used box tubing up front with mustang type suspension. 9" with disc. And for power a Blown 392 Hemi and a 727 tranny. It handles great !! Have fun on your build. Hemi j
Sounds great,,I've already subscribed. That old 4cylinder runs like a sewing machine,,don't it? The old Henry J begs to be built Gasser style! HRP
Danny, I'm getting my build plan together and I'm ready to start on the front end. The first thing will be to get the front cap off and out of the way. Now, my thoughts for the front frame is to cut the frame in front of the firewall where it starts to "Y" for the spring well. It is about 4 inches square there. I plan to weld a short section of 4 inch square .188 wall tubing to the existing frame and blend it down to a 2 by 4 .188 wall tube to the front narrowing it down at the front to 2 1/2 inch square tubing for the front cross member. I think I can dress it all up for a clean front frame. I may have to use a brace from the frame to the firewall Chevy II style, don't know yet. I will discard the inner fender panels but hope to use the radiator saddle to hold the fenders together but if not, I will do as Henry Alexander did to that neat Henry J he built using tubing for braces. I kinda dread cutting the firewall for engine setback clearance but I think I can do a reasonable job of finishing it off. Won't be as much setback as Alexander's though. I've been studying Swade's build thread and got a lot of good pointers there. I plan to use a round 2 1/4 inch DOM tube for a straight axle. I've built a lot of T bucket axles using Chevy spindles machined for mid size GM rotors with good success. Springs from Speedway and hopefully using the stock steering box for cross steering. If you or anyone has advice, feel welcome to jump in. I need all I can get. Jackie
Way to go man, can't be to many Henry J gassers out there ! That car looks like a great canidate to start with too.
Jackie, Hey i can see why you are smilin That is one very nice HJ to start a gasser project with. Sure wish my HJ would have been that clean and complete. Oh well, cant be to choosy. Best of luck to you with the project. If there is anything i can help with just ask. Love the GASSERS!
Thanks! You can count on me asking questions. I've put straight axles under Chevy II's and tubbed one using a narrowed 9 inch ford rear. I will radius the rear fenders once I get the nerve to cut it. LOL Getting antsy!
Building a 60's Gasser style Henry J myself, I choice to keep the original frame and modify it as required. Is it easier to cut the frame forward of the firewall and stub on the 2 x 4 rails???? Are you going to run the steel nose of go to a fiberglass tilt one? I figured in the 60's more were built with the stock frame modified with a straight or dropped axle and parallel leaf springs. I used one of the Speedway Motors axle kits with the 4" dropped axle w/ ford spindles, vega steering, 56" wide 9" ford rearend and some 50" long nostalgia ladder bars, 1 3/4" fenderwell headers with dumps under the front fenders and radius wheelwells. Right now the frame is out from under the body for finish welding and filling some of the 60-70 holes in the stock frame. Since we tilted the steel nose, the front frame section needs to be detailed as it is almost like outside paint with the nose tilted. Will post some photos of the project. John
Thanks for the inspiration, mine's been sitting untouched for a few months as I was busy on other projects, I think I'll go crease and roll some aluminum today and finish up the interior panels.
John, I'm getting anxious to get started on my front end. I'm using the steel fenders for now at least. On a pretty tight budget for now. As for the front frame, I have been studying the original frame and decided the work to make the original frame look good plus the work to remove all the suspension parts made it easier to build a new one. I will use a short section of 4 x 4 tubing with 2 x 4 going to the front. Gonna cut the frame where it starts to "Y" for the spring pockets. I will take pictures of the build as I go along. Keep me posted on your build. Jackie
John, Are you using the original rear springs? I had planned on coilovers but the original springs would be easier on the budget now. I'm gonna narrow a 9 inch ford rear end.
Yeah Ken,,I realized that I have too many projects that I wanna get done and I took money away from the wagon project to buy the Henry J,,, And then there is the coupe sitting in the corner,,I really wanted to build the Henry J but it would be way down the road,,, Jackie will do the car justice. HRP
I built two of them with Mustang II's, first thing was to put a 2x4 stub in it. Makes a nice platform to start with, then you can go either way , Good luck
Haven't measured yet. I hope to find one from a Bronco or Mustang. I have one from a truck but it'll for sure have to be narrowed. I have the aligning jig to narrow the rear end and Moser will respline the axles for 100 bucks. It's fairly easy to do. I'm a custom muzzleloading gunmaker and have a pretty good little country machine shop to make my barrels so building the front axle is not a problem. Getting anxious to get started.
I ran the original rear springs, new bushings & shackles, if I need to get them rearched or something later, not a big issue. Talked to the Eaton Spring people about Henry J springs, they can custom make them, but do not have a stock replacement available. I had Moser build my 9" housing and 31 spline axles. Ordered 56" axle flange to flange, which makes the housing 51" with late ford(Torino) ends. I also had them do it as a centered pinion, so the driveshaft runs down the center of the tunnel(do not know if it would create an issue later) but it did not cost any more to have it built that way. John
Swade, Were you satisfied with the brake line tubing around the wheel opening? I'm following in your footsteps. LOL
Great looking J. You mentioned you had a 292 inline. That would be KOOOL. You certainly would have some engine setback, and I would think taking over a little of the back seat. Good luck. I will be one of the guys watching.
Swade, What size tubing did you have in mind? I can go 3/8 up to probably 1/2 inch conduit. I want my first try to be the final one. LOL
Country Gent, I decided the 292 might require more setback than I wanted to do. I probably will stick to a smallblock Chevy. The 292 might be good trading material. Should be worth a little something.
Suggestions: Read up on the old rules for the gasser classes (frame, suspension, engine set back, tires, etcetera). Check out some traditional builds like Von Hartman's Abomination here on the HAMB.