If you have the stock firewall with the front body to frame supports neither the Hooker #2214 SBC Chevy II fenderwell header or the Patriot #H8033 (fat fender header) will fit without moving atleast 2 tubes on each side on these headers. Tried both of these before we decided to build a set of headers that actually fit. We went with 1 3/4" primaries with 3" collectors, which might be a touch to big with a mild small block, but they look better that way. (see the pictures on first page to see the fenderwell headers we built) ---Speedway Motors P/N#9300150 (same as Patriot P/N# H8033)--- John
I thought Speedway had a chart with all the dimensions for all their various headers but I can't find it to forward to you. Maybe give them a call.
John, I moved the engine back into the firewall about 5 inches. I've decided to build my headers and kinda looking forward to getting started on them.
OK, Speedway does have a header fitment chart. I found it in catalog # 318. It shows all the dimensions for about 30 different sets of headers.
Thank's anyway...I had to ask..May be someone else will come up with one. It's for my daughter's 51 J.
Jack, the build is looking really good! If you end up building your own headers out of U bends 16 gauge tubing is a whole lot easier to weld than the thinner 18 gauge. The cheapest tubing and header flanges that I have found come from Schoenfeld out of Van Buren AR. Speedways tubing is 18 gauge. The pictures I sent you of my build of the 51, those headers are 16 gauge. Terry
Jack, I forgot to add if you wind up building your own headers the average V8 takes 10 U bends and I used the tightest radius bends available, which is usually 3 inch. Terry.
Thanks Terry. Been wondering how many bends it would take. I usually figure out what I need then double it and maybe have almost enough. LOL
Working on the back half of the frame and crossmember for the top brackets of the coil over shocks. Moving along slowly.
Jackie,,you Hot Rodders!,,take a perfectly good running car and cut it up! It's really looking good. HRP
Looks heavy duty. Either that or you're a short dude and keep a ladder in the trunk . Is that the new sub floor? Rigid mount? Permanent?
Clik, I took the back floor pan out, needed replacing anyway. The front crossmember is for the top coilover mount and the one toward the rear is for the back rollbar to weld to. The 1 x 2 on top are for the floor metal to lay on and for the fuel tank to either set on or go between the new frame. Not sure which yet.
It's just a piece of 1/4 wall 2 inch DOM. I machined the bosses for the Chevy spindles and kingpins. A few minutes welding and we have an axle. The bosses are welded on a 4 degrees and it takes a little fitting to get that but not really a problem.
Thanks David, I'm not a machinist but I just keep shaving on the bosses until the .867 pin goes in tight. I've built quite a few axles like it, mostly T buckets. On a budget so gotta do all I can by myself. Ordered springs, axle brackets, heim joints from speedway tonight so I'll be setting on the front wheels soon. Gotta get the front brake rotor brackets now.
Forgot to mention, I soon will be replacing some floor pans. The trunk area pan will be no sweat but the fronts, well, that's another story. I'm sure I'll be on here begging for advice.
I understand the "Budget" part. I have three projects now with getting the J. I'm reading all the different post here on the Hamb & looking for budget ways to build my Gasser!
The Jalopy Journal
