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Another residual brake valve question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jeffh355, Jan 19, 2010.

  1. jeffh355
    Joined: Feb 17, 2009
    Posts: 130

    jeffh355
    Member

    Not too happy with what I did for the braking system on my rebuild. I did the search thing and read hours of info. Now just a question I couldn't find an answer to.... so here's what I have:
    I used a single cylinder master from a 62 C10 pickup (see pix) with 40 ford NON-energized drum brakes on all corners (all new stuff). The pedal goes down 3/4 of the way and the brakes do work, but scares me that it goes down so far. I added a proportioning valve in the rear that helped a bit... or not... so the next step is, I want to add a residual brake valve just because it can't hurt.
    SO THE QUESTION: Can I just add one 10lb valve between the master and the tee that goes front to rear? Or do I need two and add one for the front pair and one for the rear pair? Thanks! Jeff
     

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  2. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    First you should have a residial check in the M/C stock. But in the stock app it is in the outboard cylinder bore. To use with Ansen style pedals you need to put it in the inboard bore,other than the check valve the M/c guts are all the same. Second you do NOT need a prop valve inthat system as 1 it is a drum/drum setup and 2 was Ford designed to work together and the M/C bore is the same as Ford used.
    Next the 39-41 style brakes with adjustable anchor pins need to be adjusted per the book ! That info is on here do a search. Get the brakes adjusted up to the point of light drag and see what you now have. Also make sure you do not have too much free travel in the pedal pushrod,1/8 is nore than plenty.
     
  3. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,163

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You only need one residual in your single system, but your master could already have one internally. And you do not need a proportioning valve with a drum/drum system such as yours. What is your pedal ratio and master bore size?
    Make sure the pedal is fully returning with .040"-'060" push rod free play, and that your Lockheed brakes are adjusted properly.
    Bob
     
  4. Jeff,
    I had a similar question on my Speedway dual master cylinder setup on our roadster. We are using drum brakes (Bendix style - self energizers). I ended up putting a 10 lb. residual valve on the line going to the back brakes and a 10 lb. on the line going to the front brakes. Kept them fairly close to the master - about a foot or two. The car is not drivable yet but the brakes seem to work as we push it around the lot...
     
  5. GreggAz
    Joined: Apr 3, 2001
    Posts: 929

    GreggAz
    Member

    as usual Mr. Evans nailed it, follow his advice.
     
  6. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,756

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    Adjust the brakes.
     

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