Any First time hot rodders???? Questions???

If anyone is looking for definitions of hotrod terms, there's a cool reference book called "The Hotrodders Dictionary-A-bombs to Zoomies" or something like that. It can be found on amazon.com. As a newbie myself I found it quite helpful. Some things it has in there are really basic common knowledge stuff, but I found a lot of useful info.

 

I was thinking of this post again last night while working on the truck, and now that I've admitted that I'm a virgin, I've thought of a question: What is a good replacement dual master cylinder/power booster? I'm hoping to stick with a firewall-mount setup (since the stock pedals are all hung in the truck already), but will want something reasonably compact. I think I've read about using S-10 set-ups, but the S-10 ones I've looked at in junkyards have plastic parts on them, which don't look too traditional to me...

 

I'd just like to thank Skipstitch for starting this post and the guys who are contributed to it. After reading car mags for a zillion years, I'm familiar with the terms like frame 'Z'ing, but have never built a real street type hot rod myself. So I'm learning a lot of building tips and tricks by reading everyone's posts.

I have my '64 Ford project pretty much under control because I do remember how early Late Model stockers go together. But my next project will be an early rod...haven't decided on exactly what, but it'll likely be powered by my '64's original 223 6. I'll have plenty of questions when the time comes...

Thanks guys and gals!

Jan

 

Loogy & killer,

That's exactly the info I need. Thanks a bunch.

 

Thought of another one tonight.

Are there any magic tricks for getting at those hard to reach bolts? I'm talking about the ones that sit right up next to a major obstruction so your wrench doesn't fit between the bolt head and whatever's next to it. Sometimes you can get an extra turn or two by cocking the wrench to one side, but I always start to round the head long before the part's on or off.

Tonight it turned out I was putting the bolt in from the wrong side (so answer #1, make sure you're doing it right).

Any other suggestions?

 

I'm sick of bein' an armchair builder. It's time to put down the damn catalogs and go build sumthin'! Here's one for ya: '37 Chevy coupe. Want to make a suede out of it. Keepin' it mostly stock but need to get it much closer to Earth. No Must.II crap! Old skool only. I know I could just block the rear but how does that affect the torque tube. I'm totally clueless on the front. I could flip the axle to the top of the spring but would have 0" clearance to the frame.

This was G'pa's ride so I don't want to go choppin' shit up. Ya know, sentimental stuff (sniff). Besides, that's what I bought my '39 Dodge PU for!

Thanks for the bitchin' thread.

Katuna

 

please explain channeling

 

I'm a 'from the ground up hot rod' first timer. I've kustomized one '56 Ford Victoria and two 50's GM trucks. I've also thrown together a few Harleys. All that said, I sit around and scratch my head when it comes to building this '31 'A pickup I'm doing. With help from friends it'll come together...but it is a little intimidating sometimes.

So far I've acquired the following:

-31 'A body and doors
-Recently rebuilt GMC 270 that's going to receive a good cam, 2 carb. intake, and headers
-48 Ford front end
-40 Ford wheels that I've blasted and had brought back into shape
-38 Ford dash
-F1 Steering box, pitman, and column

My present challenges:

-Removing the hinges from the doors and body to get them free'd up and welded back together. Some jack ass Sawzall'd them in half. I've tried about a week's worth of Kroil...looks like I'm going to have to drill them.
-Getting the front end all apart. 55 year old stuff sure does get rusty. More Kroil. Maybe more drilling.
-Learning how to weld competently. Not afraid of this one, just waiting on my torches to come out of storage so I can practice a little. I'm really looking forward to putting my patch panels in and chopping this thing.

Things that have been cool:

-I've made a couple good friends through this thing and met Gene Winfield.
-I'm learning how to use a hammer and dolly quite well.
-I've been having a good time hunting down parts. It's surprising what you can find when you look really hard and ask around.

Knowing that I can build a period-perfect, pre-60 Rod for under 10K is pretty damn cool. It won't be as nice as what a pro would build, but I've got a good eye and am confident it'll be well engineered, safely constructed, and have a ton of rare, bitchen' parts that Joe Catalogue has never even seen.

 

Cars usually sit 'on' the frame. Look at most cars that use a Deuce (32) frame. You know, you can see the frame rails underneath the body? Consider that unchanneled.

Channeling is the act of cutting the floor loose (or putting notches in it), sliding the body down over the frame rails so you can't see them anymore, securing the body to the frame w/ new tabs, and building a new floor.

Presto! Lower stance and cleaner look, due to unexposed frame rails. The reason it often isn't done w/ deuce frames is because they're pretty. A' frames and others are kind of ugly, in the eyes of many.

 

Question from a newbie in the HotRod Sense.
At what years do you keep the fenders on? I recently picked up a decent 38 Ford P/U. I was wondering the look of it without fenders would be totalass or the look.
My idea is to sling it low and build it to drive anywhere...yet suede the paint.

 

Has it ever been discussed??? I looked under the archives and couldn't find what I needed. I am in the process (first time) of trying to lower a Model A frame. I want to keep the stock wheelbase, it just sits to high. I have heard the term kickin up and have seen a few pictures. I also do not want to go with a suicide perch. I just welded in a new cross-member and started assembling my superbell front end and came to the realization of the frame sitting to high. I am using this frame for an old school rat rod type truck. It has a 46 ford cab chopped and channeled with a 4 inch ground clearence (hopefully) a model a bed and a 350/350 combo with a 59 ford truck rear hung with a model A buggy spring. any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.

 

Spoken like a true professional. Good to know. Great Post..

 

welding question...

i am seriously close to starting a t frame build. ...getting the garage upgraded to 220 etc...

once and for all, is MIG sufficient for framebuilding @ 220? or do i have to go TIG? ...and yes i am a shitty welder as it is - but i am patient and damn persistent so i hope to get where i need to go over time. ...but i want to start on the right foot.

thx.

 

anyone?

 

Raaf: I used a buzz box welder for years to build cars untill I saved enough to buy a GOOD mig and they are still on the road. A mig will do about anything you want. If everyone had to have enough money to have a tig, alot of cars would never be built. The mig will be much easier for you. Suggestion to virgins:go to E-gay and buy someones collection of old rod magazines and read, read and read somemore, it is all there.

 

You could sweep the frame up front and Z it in the rear. Sweeping is a little smoother looking than a Z. Just make sure you plate the backside of the weld area and box it. You can never be too strong.

 

Any good 220 MIG welder should get good enough penetration. TiG is just a little prettier.

 

thanks for the info!

 

Thanks dreddybear! That's probably what I am going to do hopefully I don't throw off the geometry of the frame.

 

When I built a frame I built it from scratch but this method would still work. If you have a sturdy metal table put it in a place where it can stay for a while and level it. Tack weld 4 peices of square tubing on it the withe of your frame. Put the frame inbetween the tubing at whatever ride height you want (for example 4 in off up from the table surface). Then z your frame as much as needed with the suspension you have to acheive your desired ride height. Once its all done cut all your tack welds and you've got a frame. Its also nice this way because you can work on your frame at a better height then closer to the ground

 

Ok, I have another question. I tried mocking up my rear today and noticed that the pumpkin is off center??? I am using a 9" from a 1959 ford truck, I want to put it into a model A frame using a model a rear spring attached with a SoCal weld in buggy spring bracket. Here is my problem. If I align the rear inside the frame, the pumpkin/yolk sits about an inch and a half more towards the passenger side. I plan on using a turbo 350 in the frame. In mocking up the tranny is it ok to have the drive line veer over towards the passenger side so that it will meet up with the yolk on the rear end. Will that make the car lurch or vibrate?? I have never done this before. Do all 9 inch rears have a long and a short axle??? I have researched my books and couldn't find any answers. Can anyone help? Thanks so much, love this thread.
Brent

 

Most 9 inchers are like you said, where one axle is slightly longer. It centers the pinion, rather than the housing. If you center the housing then one wheel will sit farther out than the other one. The 9 on my A is a 58 car rearend and it's even on both sides (but super hard to find nowadays).

 

what should i get for a first car i have 1500 bucks any one wants to lend a hand

 

You may want to check out some of the more "unpopular" brands and makes. Popularity drives a lot of the prices. For example, you can get a mid 50s Ford, Merc, Pontiac etc. for about 1/3 to 1/2 the price of the more popular chevys. Trucks are usually a bit cheaper than the cars.
Google: collectorcartraderonline
A good site to get a feel for what things are generally going for. Some prices are a little high but you get the idea. Even if you don't buy there, you can usually search the 50,000 plus cars on there for fun. You can search particular makes and models, with a price cap of $1500, and see what comes up.

 

I have a question.
I want to convert my 6V system into a 12V system.
this will be done on my 49 Caddy.
I know that I will need to replace every wire and bulb and get a stepdown for the factory clock.
I also know that I will need to replace the generator with an altinator and rplace my starter.
The question is, I heard that that I will also need to replace the flywheel.
Has anyone done this and if so, can you give me some tips?

 

Whats the best way to "stretch" a frame? My first major rod building experience is my '57 chevy truck and I have already grafted a firebird sub onto the frame. I'm just curious what would have happened had I cut too much off my 57 frame? I ended up with 113" wheelbase while it is still on jackstands but I havent been able to measure wheelbase yet at ride height... (no tires or wheels yet). I'm hyoping its not gonna be too far off, I measured for weeks until the welder got here.

 

Many time lurker and few time poster wants to know-----

I am building af '31 Chevy five window Coupe with sbc motor and th350 tranny and ten gallon gas tank.

Is there a rule of thumb or some estimation on how much 'bounce' should be allowed between at rest and when you hit a big bump??

In other words how much space should be provided for between the top of the axle and the rubber snubbers ??

Regards, Twobit

 

flyin55, was subframing and getting all the fenders & rad suport to line up again a pain. I have a '55 2nd series with a prety hacked frame, and am debating wether do sub frame it or swap it out for a '60 to '65 ish frame. Id dtill have to mess around with body mounts, but i'd have the ifs, and truck arm suspension.

thanks,
Seth

 

how do you make your motor go faster on the cheap

 

Interesting, looks like some good advice here. Still have some unanswered questions. What is a good source for learning the old ways. For example, I am looking to put a 27 T roadster on an A frame. Where would I find pictures or tech as to how to set it up with a 41 p/u banjo and a 59A flattie. I am pretty good at figuring ways of doing things but would like the tried and proven system on my side.
Thanks