Technical Any hemi gurus know what I have?

My brother and his boys came to my house the other day with gifts. Previous owner said it's a 57 392 and heads. I would like to confirm this please and thank you.

 

And take a pic of the stamping front of the block.
Where the valley cover goes

 

twelve pictures, and not the one we need....

 

^^^^^^ that’s the one ya need ^^^^^

 

1958 New Yorker (and other models probably) 392

 

yeah, but we need the number from his block

 

All the numbers are listed

 

392
You can tell from the front cover position.

 

yes, my 392 was in a $50 1958 Imperial. I sold the rest of the car to a scrap metal business

 

The block casting number, 1673729, says 392. The 'modified' engine mount ears will cause some grief...

 

@73RR I was going to ask about that, the other side is modified as well. I will add pictures when I get home today

 

I had the same problem. The right guy can fix it. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/welding-cast-iron.408405/page-2#post-4452677.

 

Time for one of these.........

 

CE57 is a 57 392
Single 4v Imperial

 

Thank you @anthony myrick

 

Aww crap

 

Eeek! Was it run like that? A successful repair, I hope. You've had a lot of good stuff come your way lately. Hope this works out.

 

I’d run it

 

It's all dirty like it was run after. I'll just tell everyone that it was a top fuel motor with windowed block and tabs removed for clearance, lol

 

Fixing the freeze damage is easy compared to the ears...what ya can't do with a recip...???

 

Dumb question why would someone saw off/ modify the engine mount ears? Clearance? How was the engine mounted after removal of tabs? Ok several dumb questions.
Dan

 

We repaired broken ears on a Dodge LA block, by welding the sawed off exhaust manifold outlet pieces, from a 3 bolt SBC exhaust manifold. Pre- and post heat was used in the welding process. Happened about 20 years ago, long gone, no pics.

 

I am going to try to repair it.

 

Blower motors have been known to break the ears off in drag racing, so a mounting plate is used up front.

 

Even though they say that rod doesn't require pre heating or slow post-weld cooling, you are going to have much better chances of success by using normal cast-iron welding procedures.

 

Depends on what you plan on putting it in, but I would probably go with the front motor plate.

Unless that muggy rod has improved over the years, I would spend the extra money on real nickel rod and pre heat and slow cool the block after welding the ears on.