Any one interested in a GIBB'S test

Dvanecek,

Thanks for the posts. I was really intrested in the results. I have used Gibbs in the past. But honestly it didn't work any miracles for me. Sure its better than WD40 and LPS just cause it doesnt evaporate as quickly (my opinion). Like alot of guys on the HAMB I am full of ambition and low on dough. So I can appreciate your efforts from a regular guys standpoint. I don't have the cash for media blasting. So finding the cheapest way to stop rust is the best way.

Later,
rustfarmer

 

Rodney Dangerfield should have started a religion.

 

I have no connection to roadster.com except to buy Gibbs. It does absolutely everything he said it does and more. I put it on rusty exhaust manifold nuts several times over 2 weeks time. When I put a wrench on them all the nuts came off and the threads under the nuts were wet. It works for me. I sprayed a spot on my cast iron band saw table last June when I got my first can and it is still wet. Follow the directions.

 

Really interesting reading all these posts about penetrating oils, etc.

Never used Gibbs...might be a good one to try out...I've used Kano Kroil...PB Blaster too...Liquid Wrench, WD-40, LPS, etc...

Kroil and PB were used , with heat, and a lot of playing around, for several days..to remove Model A door post hinges....I used Kroil in the tool and die trade to remove very hot cores and bolts in molds that were repaird while in production...so called "running repairs"...stuff worked good.

Don't forget another method...heat with bee's wax..another Tool and Die trick....used while working in the press for really stuborn bolts, cores, etc.

Dad had a bottle of naval Jelly around..he swopre by it and Liqiud wrench...Coca Cola too.....but that was a hundred years ago. I wasn't aware that Naval Jelly was basically lye...a very dangerous material..a base, it'll eat your hide off...Neutralize your hands, and probably the parts afterwards..with common vinegar....

I know a lot of stuff about rust...all my stuff came with a lot of it....

There's always fiberglass if you don't want rust....

 

Really interesting reading all these posts about penetrating oils, etc.

Never used Gibbs...might be a good one to try out...I've used Kano Kroil...PB Blaster too...Liquid Wrench, WD-40, LPS, etc...

Kroil and PB were used , with heat, and a lot of playing around, for several days..to remove Model A door post hinges....I used Kroil in the tool and die trade to remove very hot cores and bolts in molds that were repaird while in production...so called "running repairs"...stuff worked good.

Don't forget another method...heat with bee's wax..another Tool and Die trick....used while working in the press for really stuborn bolts, cores, etc.

Dad had a bottle of naval Jelly around..he swopre by it and Liqiud wrench...Coca Cola too.....but that was a hundred years ago. I wasn't aware that Naval Jelly was basically lye...a very dangerous material..a base, it'll eat your hide off...Neutralize your hands, and probably the parts afterwards..with common vinegar....

I know a lot of stuff about rust...all my stuff came with a lot of it....

There's always fiberglass if you don't want rust....

Mark aka Abonecoupe31

 

Hey dvanecek How's that test going after a few days? We've been waiting for an update. Would you recommend this stuff? M.

 

Okay, I'll bite, put me down for one can, pm sent.
Ralph

 

Here's some news....they no longer offer Gibbs in 16 oz. cans. They are now 12 oz. but the price stayed the same. I ordered a 4-pack yesterday from the "roadsters.com" page.

 

I'll give it a try at that price. Will send you a PM for a single can.


Thanks,

M.

 

put this in the classifieds. I tried my best to not piss anyone off with this post and it went to hell. As far as my opion goes. Like I said before It's no miracle oil. It does seem to work good on bolts and such, but not any better than PB blast or anything like that. As far as the paint right over it claim, I don't know.

 

Ask ole fueler what he thinks abou Gibbs

 

Gibbs Sucks

 

Please explain why!

 

Here is another alternative that works great on mild rust.

http://www.zerorust.com/prepstep.html

It is water soluble and all you are paying for is the powder. No need to throw away money on a spray can. Spray on until it softens the rust and then go at it with a wire brush or grit disc. Redo if necessary. Then do a finish spray if you have to leave it untoched for up to 6 months without rust reforming.

You can also water blast the worst of the rust off with a pressure washer after it has softened.

No, Im not a dealer; just lazy enough and old enough that I have tried virtually everything out there to make my work easier.