Technical Any thoughts on overheating problem

Just for the heck of it,is your crank pulley and water pump pulley the same size? HRP

 

Wow, I guess I have a lot to add about the situation. It is a 350 Chevy engine with an overdrive transmission vintage I believe is 1994. The radiator is from Speedway and there is one electric fan in the front of the radiator, also adding some pics. There is no shroud anywhere. I would say that the transmission throttle cable is not quite right so I use 3rd gear in town but the od on the highway. It tends to want to shift in and out when it shouldn't. I have it close but need to shorten the cable. I never thought that could be the problem. By the way I am a carpenter and not a mechanic so I deeply appreciate the help. Joe

 

The fan in front of the rad is blocking air @ hiway speeds, remove it and put a puller with shroud on the back side, problem solved.

 

Bingo !
Pusher fan ****s

 

Actually , IT BLOWS , but who's keepin ' track
You're probably going to have to figure out how to move that rad. forward to get clearance for a fan
dave

 

I have a high flow pump and no t-stat. Puller electric fan and cools just fine. Wish I had belt driven fan but engine is way lower than rad. for it to work. It will heat up in traffic but that's gonna get remedied with louvers.

 

A zips riser will raise the water pump up high enough to ran a mechanical fan. HRP

 

Is there one for FE Fords?

 

i dont think that little fan could block enough air to cause his issue. i would be looking at timing, or a lean issue.

 

I run the exact combo on my 41 p/u mine will run 180-190 on the highway depending on ambient temp but idling or in traffic it will run up to 220, I am thinking he has restriction somewhere quite possibly lower hose ****ing shut. Tom

 

Or too much radiator.

Too many tubes, too many rows of tubes, and too many fins per inch plus your fan will impede the flow of air through the radiator and any by p***es of air around the radiator compound the problem plus a lack of sufficient area for the hot air flow to escape from the engine compartment adds to the any overheating due to air flow restriction scenario.

 

That's what I would do,
Move the radiator forward.
If I were to keep that grill shell, I'd also lay it back by scooting the front way forward

 

28dreyer X2. More rows of tubes is not always better, good point. I've seen where two row radiators many times get the job done.

Gary

 

It is better to remain silent, and be thought a fool,
Than to speak up, and remove all doubt.

 

Thanks for posting pics - not many of those roadsters around. likely overheats because you have a Chevy in it - Ha! too bad that the motor was not mounted further back, with rad that has fewer rows could put in a puller fan with a shroud. but, you have to work with what you have - looks like there is a gap at top of rad and grille surround - need to make sure that as much air as possible is going through radiator. is fan the largest diameter that will fit your rad? have you ever measured amount of clearance on engine side of rad to possibly put a elec fan with a custom shroud there instead of fan on front - would be above water pump pulley? the lower hose looks like it has a serious bend in it - does it have a coiled wire in it? where is the sender for temp gauge located? do you have a recovery over flow tank? what pressure is rad cap? as mentioned before - timing/carb set up right? ever do a compression check on motor? how do plugs look? You really need to get the trans TV cable set up correctly - what kind of overdrive activator does it have? where is trans cooler mounted? I had a '34 Plymouth PE sedan with a 350 but, wheel base may have been a little longer (?) - ran good with Walker 3 row rad, zip water pump riser, aluminum multi blade fan, 160 thermostat, made fan shroud using two Volvo plastic shrouds hooked together.

 

What happens to the temp when you shut off the fan at speed?
Moving rad forward and adding engine fan will make a big difference, especially if you put on a shroud.