Technical Any tips or tricks you've learned on removing weather strip adhesive?

I bought the adhesive remover from 3m....It works kind of...

You have to spray it, let it soften and wipe, wipe, wipe, etc. It turns to a slimy substance that just smears.

I have a fresh door that needs repainted so I need to pull it off without damaging the seam sealer and paint.

So I was wondering if leaving a soaked rag on it, or something similar would help. I'm sure someone has found something that works better...

 

Actually, I haven't found a better way. I use this, which is probably the same chemicals you are using except yours is in a spray can. I dribble it on until is softens up the adhesive and then use lots of blue paper towels to finally wipe it off. I would be interested in learning a better way, also.

Oh, I also use a craft (popsicle) stick cut off square with my side cutters as a s****er. It won't hurt the paint.

https://www.amazon.com/INSTALLBAY-3...lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=AFD3YB3MPK3U3

 

I would do the smallest spongy fiber wheels with the dremel and clean up as much as you can. if you go slowly you can save some burn through, blue tape areas where you dont want glue or paint burn through, its 3M booger glue it will stick to itself, but best to clean and non oily remove, or lacquer thinner before adding glue on top.

If you are repainting the door then just fiber wheel it all off. this type thing

 

Once the adhesive gets soft and gooey, try spraying some WD-40 onto a rag and rub.
What? No...
Rub the adhesive, silly.
I doubt the WD-40 would do much to the adhesive when the adhesive is still solid. But most sticky stuff still in liquid form can't seem to hold up to WD-40 and just gives up.
Might not do a darn thing. But I think it's worth a try and it won't hurt your paint.

 

Have you tried an Eraser wheel?

 

Acetone, a rag, and bare hands

 

I have used rubbing alcohol to remove the adhesive left from duct tape. I'm not sure it will work on weather strip adhesive though. I buy the alcohol by the gallon from the local large animal health store.

 

3M makes an adhesive remover that is sold at the auto parts store.

 

Maybe this stuff?

 

I've had two bodymen tell me that WD40 can create disaster in paint'g areas.

 

I use MEK (methyl ethyl ketone), a solvent used in the aviation industry. Be careful as it may also remove your paint.

 

Hello,

Goof Off must be related to my wife's favorite removal liquid, Goo-Gone. She uses it for everything, but, I have to go over it with my own favorite, lacquer thinner. Now, that takes everything off after using Goo-Gone or other products. Once it gets under the edges of the item for removal, it is game over.

We all know what lacquer thinner is and how powerful it is, so much care is necessary to not get it on spray painted surfaces. I have used it on car door jams to take off stickers and other items left on by gas station or dealer mechanics. All with no paint damages. The normal baked on paint is pretty solid, but one never knows about ALL painted surfaces.

Jnaki

Sometimes, you may have to use a plastic straight edge s****er that fits the channel to get the remaining stuff off completely. If you tried to soak or use a rag to get to the painted surface, the plastic s****er won’t harm the paint. The pressure from your hand usually gets the item, sticker or rubber glued on, removed without much effort.

Clean up is based on how much you use. Mostly, it is wipe on and let soak for a second or two. then the s****er easily gets to the edges and lifts the sticker/rubber.

For your application or any externally glued rubber, make sure the goo gone/lacquer thinner is on the edges not on top. No need to put liquid on top of the rubber. You want the soaking to go under the edges so you can use the s****er to get it off. YRMV

 

Naptha works well removing interior adhesive without damage.

 

We had a new Auto body repair men start work at the shop I worked at. Every thing we painted was contaminated with FISH-EYE’S. turns out, he was using WD-40 to lube his DA and Air file. Spraying that **** everywhere. We had to use FISH-EYE ELIMINATOR after that, but it didn’t help. After being confronted, he switch over to something else, TRANSMISSION FLUID. I packed my **** and got the Hell out of there. ARMOUR ALL is another paint shop contaminator.

 

Don't forget silicone

 

Just like anything to want to remove, you start light and work up to what gets it done in your situation.
We all have different levels of 'that works' while also being cost conscious. You can use a fluid in combo with different removal materials.
Water, soap and water, vinegar, WD40, citrus cleaner, rubbing alcohol, carb or brake cleaner, lacquer thinner, acetone, paint stripper.
Soft polishing cloth, paper towel, shop towel, 3M eraser wheel, plastic s****ers, scotchbrite in different grits, steel wool, metal s****ers, sandpaper, wire wheel, flapper wheel, grinding wheel.
You can add in various stuff that has abrasive and liquid combined, such as polish, compound, comet or bar keepers friend, up to valve grind paste.
Different stuff for different tasks, how much time and money you are willing to invest and how careful you want to be with the remaining surface.