Technical Any vehicles come with disc/drum non power assist?

The disc conversions for Corvair are non boosted as well. Non boosted brakes from this era don't bother me at all. I actually prefer them. They do require more pressure but I feel more in tune with the car.
Power brakes and steering from this era removes all the feel. In a light weight ride power assist isn't necessary. IMO

 

Disc Drum, stops on a dime straight and true. I am a little nervous about not having an e-brake though.

 

I used the CPP disc conversion and power M/C kit on my ‘55 F100 and had no complaints. It had a dropped stock axle. The stuff fit well and I just wanted to get it done and not make a project out of it. I used it for towing so I went with power brakes on that one.


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Towing days for this truck are long past. But the bias should be similar to your truck. Maybe I’ll check with h to em this week and see what they have. Thanks

 

Lots of jeeps came with disc/drum and manual brakes. My 83 CJ7 is set up that way.

 

While I have owned only for a few weeks, my ‘38 has non power disc/drum setup. Getting used to driving it. Not stopping like I think it should, might be doing pad/shoe refresh. It also has power steering which I am not doing very well with at the moment.

 

You should definitely fix that. There are many kits, my son got the cables from the Control Cable Co. and the handle mounted on the floor from Lokar or someplace like that. All easily adjustable, used “ess” links to keep the cables off the drive shaft.

I installed Wilwood 4 piston discs on the front on my 56 Ford with 11” rear drums. Work great and I don’t see the POS tin can on my firewall.

 

Yes, that’s what I’m looking to not see as well.

 

My 1978 Ford F100 had manual disc/drum brakes, I still have a spare m/c for it.

 

My Mom had a new 74 Duster with non-power disc/drum brakes.

 

'67 Ford Police Cruiser. Four piston [54mm] calipers and 11 x 2-1/2 rear drums. No power.

 

I’m going to do a frame off rebuilding process. Rocket 324, full fenders, paint and upholstery. Plan on doing a few upgrades along the way.

 

I've used the 71-74 Chevy Vega master cylinder, it's 3/4" bore makes great manual pressure.

 

That car has been in our family since the mid fifties. It had a 303 or 324 Olds with 4 2bbl carbs. I templated the original fire wall and am putting it back to how dad built it using a lot of the original parts. Since the break peddle assembly was fabricated by my dad and works, I’ll probably just leave it

 

Mopars from the late sixties up into the 70's, Vegas, Monzas, square body S-10s to name a few

 

The key to manual disc brakes it's to have a pedal ratio of 6-7:1 so the pedal is not too hard.

 

Generic late 60’s early 70’s Ford disc/drum non power assist or p- valves
Dorman 99086

 

That’s the key to all of it .... a 3/4” MC and a 5-1 pedal will put you thru the windshield with no power..

 

POL has some nice stuff for your truck

https://www.performanceonline.com/1955-59-chevy-gmc-2nd-series-3100-truck-brakes-brake-parts/

 

Had a '79 F100 no power disc, no power nothing and radio delete.

 

AMC; late '70's & early 80's Spirits and Concordes. They used Ford disk brakes in front, usually without power.

 

Use the master cyl for a 1975 Chevrolet Monza disc/drum car without power brakes..

 

67 and up Mustangs. I have non-power disc/drum from a 1968 Mustang in my '66.

 

That little master cylinder on my 32, see above is a mustang item. Probably used on other models

 

I used a 79 chev 1/2 ton pu CARQUEST part#MCA 98952 Raybestos is MC39177. Manuel brake mc is a 1" bore power is 1 1/8" bore. GM intermediate cal in front and 9" ford in rear 15/16 wheel cylinder I believe off the top of my head.

 

Mustangs too.

You do not need power assist for disc drums or even a split master. We ran a '55 Stude with the stock master and a disc drum setup for over a decade. ran I all over the country, never had any issues at all.

 

Since there are tons of options from which to choose, it might be best to select all components - master cylinder, proportioning valve and individual brake parts from a vehicle with the same front/rear weight ratio.

Secondary considerations would be to choose a setup of the same make as the car, and similar overall weight of vehicle.

 

It’s possible I guess, but looking at the link that @swade41 provided, I looks like POL offers a dual manual MC that appears to mount on my original setup. I’ll have to contact them and verify. Price looks right and the safety of a dual system is worth it IMO.
And yes I have lost a wheel cylinder before and had to limp home on the ebrake, so an upgrade is in order.

 

1) Pull the existing master cyl and see if the hole is deep or shallow. Next pick up a 1975 Chevy Monza master cyl with the same depth hole.. Make sure you spec manual disc/drum master..

2) Pick up a Metering valve for the front brakes and a adjustable proportion valve..

A brake metering valve is used to Balance the Braking Forces. It is only found on vehicles with front disc and rear drum brakes. The metering valve holds back fluid to the front brakes until enough pressure is created to overcome the return springs inside the rear drums.

Metering Brake Valve Front Hold Off Disc Brake Conversion Proportioning 3/16" | eBay

3) Adjustable Proportion Valve..
JEGS 63022: Adjustable Proportioning Valve | JEGS

 

You are aware that what you are calling safety is a myth. If you bust a line perhaps, that is if you have a functional e brake and know how to use it and are good with spongy minimally functional brakes and a brake line failure is what takes you out. More commonly you loose the master and not a brake line.

I am not saying that you should not use a dual master, they are a more modern system and are an upgrade from a single. But do not depend on it any more than you would a single system. Keep good lines, good brakes and etc. and always have a functional e brake and know how to use it. Please.