If you think bending a pitman arm is a mistake, well thanks, I know its a bit of a touchy subject. I've got a small portable torch rig, the kind with the plastic holder you can lug it around with. With a small tip, like around a 0 I think, I can get a nice flame. With a bigger tip, a 4 or a 6, I don't know what I'm doing wrong but when I add oxygen I always blow out the flame with a big pop. I've tried heating the pitman with the small tip, and with a cutting head, and can't get it hot enough to bend the 3/4" I need. I can't get a good enough flame with the #6 to use it. The pitman gets hot, but not red hot or anything like I've gotten with thinner metal. Any thoughts? I'm kinda in a pickle here, I need to bend this sucker to be able to drive the car. Thanks much! Sean
How many pounds of acetylene are you running? Sounds like you're out... Those little jeweler's tanks don't last long. You need to use the biggest tip you have, you want that sucker cherry red before you attempt to bend it or you run the risk of creating small fractures. Make sure it's a forged piece and have it magnafluxed after bending too. Oh btw, my pitman arm is bent too...
oooooh....uhhhh....that's a good question about the acetylene. I know the tank has plenty, but I didn't adjust the regulator come think of it, so I can't even tell you what I'm running. Now that you mention it I may have last used the torch to cut some rebar 6 months ago and never touched it since. What pressures *should* I be running on my oxy/acetylene? Now that you mention it I"m sure I never changed them after using it to cut. I have a booklet I usually consult, maybe its at the bottom of the case somewhere. I was just thinking that I never had much luck getting a good flame with that tip. Well incorrect pressures sure won't get me one! thanks guys
buy a rosebud tip , they are made for heating. as for heating and bending pitman arms , i've done it many times with no problems....just follow proper procedures
Probably not, it's almost as bad as the '55 drag car my buddy has.. the drag link is curved in a big arch, it might even be a tie rod section used to connect the set-back steering to the straight axle under it.
I use a rose bud tip and after I bend I try to put it in sand so it will cool slowly. This pictures scares the shit out of me every bump I hit in the road would make think I was going to make a quick left or right turn!
you need more heat, like 36-3window said, get a rosebud. it wouldnt scare me to run it but i would gues the easier way would have been to retaper the end from the other side, i do it all the time when i need to put the tie rod on the top or where needed.
I've bent a few arms with a standard tip....like a #1 or #2, but a smaller rosebud is easier. But ya need to increase the acetylene pressure up around 10.... Heat to red and bend slowly, keeping the heat on it while bending. Let it cool on it's own.
Don't waste your money on the rosebud. Those dinky tanks cannot generate enough acetyline to provide the gas needed for a large tip. You need physically larger tanks to generate the gas.
I agree, don't waste your time on insufiencent equipment!!!! Step up & buy a good Victor "Journeyman" gas welding/cutting outfit & never look back!!!. Then get some mid sized oxygen & acetelyne tanks to last you for a while. Be sure to have both regulators handles backed off from diaphrams before opening tank side valves. Otherwise you stand a good chance of rupturing diaphrams when all that pressure hits them. Set gas at 7-10 pounds---set oxy. at 30 pounds for the larger tips 3-5. a rosebud will require more than 30pounds (35). Using a flame with just a small feather at end will ensure a more gentle heating procedure than a sharp blue tip flame & hissing noise. Welding since 1951----------Don
If I were you, I would take it to someone with a big welding set and a good sized rosebud tip. Clamp the part in a BIG vise, heat it very red, and use a pipe on the end to make the bend. Cool it very slowly.
As you heat it, watch the color and do not make it puddle. If you put your leverage on it as you are heating it you can move it around to where you want it and not use excessive heat. Very simple job with the right equipment. And as everyone said, let it cool on its own.
agreed, need the real deal... keep trying over and to heat it up with the Mickey mouse set up and you will weaken the metal. I owned a set for 15 years now only use it 3 times a year on average, but i wouldnt know what to do without it. good luck
Thanks for the suggestions guys, all were a help. I throttled back the oxygen and set the regulators according to the book for a #5 tip I used. The flame was a little more feathered and hissy-er than I'd have liked, but I just kept the heat on it until I finally got it cherry red and bent it. I'd already have full size tanks if I had room, but I live in an apartment, and unless they can double as a lamp or something I got no place to put em
The only thing that the size of the tank will affect is how quickly it runs out of gas. A rosebud will work just fine since the pressures are all still the same but it would probably empty the tanks in no time. I've bent a lot of shit with the cutting head. I always grab it so that my hand is under the cutting lever to avoid any oh shits!
The tank size has everything to do with acy delivery according to my antique FFA guide book. It claims that a type of concrete is in those acy tanks and releases a "stabil" amount of gas but for heavy cutting or rosebud tip that a larger tank them an MC will be required. The book goes on to claim a "large" problem will show itself with repeated attempts. I also have a carry set and they are great for quick cuuting or brazing as they were intended and I also have a large set for general shop use. Every tool has its place and understanding is the key to safety. We all have used tools for jobs against our common sense, right? And I trust all of you with these type of tools have fire extingushers near and ready? A few kids died from our circle as kids due to safety issues and left an impact on us, but it's all up to you to process any and all warnings as viable or stupid, right?
I'm gonna be trying to put a 45-degree bend in my F1 pitman arm for radius rod clearance on my side-steer 32-frame 31 Ford coupe. I have the pitman arm that has holes in both ends and I guess I will need to put a bend near both the small and large holes to make them parallel. Here are my questions: 1) Do I need to heat the entire pitman arm red, or just the section where I hope to place each bend? 2) Once cherry red, how much force should it take to bend it? The pitman arm has rounded edges, so the only place to clamp it is at the flat sides of the holes, and maybe I can then slide a pipe over the small hole..? I'm wondering how long of a pipe to acquire before I try this again....or is this one of those cases where I need to spend a week to make a jig and use a press?
Use a rosebud as was mentioned. Heat till orange, just before puddling and bend slowly. Make sure to clamp to something that will not move. I used my old truck bumper (mounted to truck) and clamped item to it. Find a 3ft long piece of pipe or tubing to use as leverage and BEND SLOWLY. When done, unclamp and let it cool on its own.
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