Well you might know, yet another hurdle, the 9" bronco rear I put in the roadster has the wider 1330 yoke, and my driveshaft has the standard 1310 u joints. Are the combination U joints that adapt the two sizes okay to run, or is it better to bite the bullet and find a 1310 yoke, which would likely mean new crush sleeve and all the pinion setup issues?
Nothing wrong with the ****rul joint. I've run MANY of them without any problems..street, track, etc.
They work just fine. Have used them a number of times. In some cases if you have in hand both u-joints by the same nfg you can trade two cups from each for the other and end up with two combnation units. Charlie
krooser we always called them a B@#%@!D joint. But yes they work just fine. Been the main stay of hot rodding for 35 or 40 years that I know of.
I have the Bronco rear end under my 32 roadster ... and I use a " Mechanic's joint " with no issues That's what the guys at Car Quest Auto Parts call them ...
When I had the drive shaft cut down for my 38 chevy coupe with 9" rear they welded in a rear yoke on the drive shaft that used a stock u-joint. That way if I need one out on the road it will be easy to find.
There's one at the rear of the driveshaft on my '57 Chevy truck, found an AstroVan driveshaft that fit perfectly, except the U joint. One combo u-joint later, I was on the road. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy!!
Same here! Malibu shaft mated to a Ford nine inch using a normal joint with two caps off of another joint. Worked slick as cat piss on gl***.
The combo u-joints are carried by virtually every auto parts in the country so on-the-road replacement is easy.
Not around me they're not. It ticked me off so much that I went and cut off the freshly welded driveshaft end and swapped it for a 1330 series. Now it's a "standard" joint front and rear. But to the origional question - like everyone has already stated - not a problem - it'll work fine.
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