Technical Anyone actually ever use tardell/speedway wedge with a 56 f100 box in a 32/34 chassis

Hi all

Im putting a 56 f100 steering column into a 34 ford pickup and was looking at using a tardell/speedway wedge (not the weld on flange for the f1 box)

http://www.verntardel.com/collections/frontpage/products/steering-box-wedge


But after mocking up the box and column and finding the sector doesn't even come out far enough to fit the pitman arm without the wedge i cannot see how putting even more space between the box and chassis is going to help.

The only way i can see it working is not using the wedge at all but instaed grinding a taper into the flange on the front of 56 steering box and spacing the rear out with washers or make a small wedge.

So has anyone ever actually used one of these successfully (i have searched here quite extensively and on the web) and have yet to see any proof but allot of people talking about using them, or is it a bit of black magic that i'm not getting.

Would love to hear anyone else's experiences from using them, and if it did or didn't work and how you overcome it? Photos or pics would be much appreciated.

cheers Julian.

 

I used the wedge , and it was a #%#!!! @ I finally made one out of wood to fit then ground down the wedge to fit my box / frame . thought it was my 32 frame at fault as the roadster broadsided a drunk back in 49 !

 

here is another idea have a look at a chev 4 steering box clamp ,then when you find one turn down the steering box housing including that flange thingy so it fits the clamp then bolt the clamp in side or out side of the chassis and your in business old boy ,belive me it works well have used this idea on Hudson steering box in a stock model A and am going to do same in a 32 soon

 

Cheers for the replies guys, it kind of answers my question that these are a good idea but just dont seem to work (well not on an original chassis anyway)

thanks for your help.

cheers julian

 

Had a wedge; but it did not look workable, probably too thick, instead cut down the F-100 flange to a more manageable size and used shim washers to angle the shaft to the correct position. Ended up with more than enough clearance between the pitman arm and the frame. This method worked out well.