Anyone build themselves a garage in the last 2 years

We are moving and I am looking for a place that allready has a couple buildings rather than having to build. Some places do not even have a garage. I was wondering who on the board has built themselves a garage, how big is it and what was the cost to do so? This way if I end up buying a place that needs something built I can take the price of the building into consideration when making an offer on a house. Thanks.

 

we built a 6 car parking garage, 32x38', 2x4 walls 8' high, 3/12 pitch truss roof, two 18' door and two 8' doors, insulated and drywalled on a concrete slab, wood siding, for about $15k last year. did all the work ourselves except the slab.

 

I wanted a larger one but have two gigantic cotton trees I didnt want to cut....so I could only squeeze in an 18W by 28L. Its a good workshop to walk-a-round a project without tripping over yourself and still have plenty of bench space...It cost me $1200 for the pad and 84 lumber delivered the materials for $5800. I did the rest.

 

http://www.garagejournal.com/

 

I finished mine about a year ago... 36'x30'. My Dad and I built it. We did all the work except for finishing the concrete floor. It is stick built on a 1' concrete stub wall. It has a 6" thick floor, 11'6" cieling height and a truss roof. The trusses are attic trusses so there is 400 sq. ft. of storage upstairs. The trusses span the entire 30'. I'll post a few pics when I get home today.. We used an ungodly amount of concrete, and overwired the place.. I'm guessing $25,000-$30,000 all told. That doesnt include our labor.. I have all the receipts in a folder. I'm actually a little afraid to look...

 

30'x40', 5" 3500# slab with fiber reinforcement, 11' eve height (3) 9'x9' rollup doors, (5) 30" x40" windows, metal man door, insulated, gutters, metal roof & siding, site prep, turnkey $24,500. Three guys built it in about 10 days.

 

Here is a idea my dad had that has worked twice here in Minnesota. After you find and buy your place with no buildings call a few of your local land brokers, large home builders, or large excavation companies let them know your looking for a building to move. I was offered numerous buildings that needed to be moved. All you will have in them is the labor of taking them down and putting them back up plus the cost of cement I have done it twice, 24 x 48 steel frame and a 60 x 200 used to add onto exsisting building. They were both free and one had a new heater both had all the lights, windows doors etc... They just had to be moved within a certain time before land was cleared for new homes.

 

My Dad and I put one up on his property about 2 years ago. We originally wanted to build a steel prefab unit, but the county said no way, and on top of that the county wanted it attached to and matching the finish of the original house. Anyway, to make a long story short, we spent the better part of 90K (my dad took out a second against his property) and built a 40x40 shop with hydronic heated floor, bathroom, store room 12'6" ceilings, and a 12x12 lounge room that connects it to the main house (there is no inside door leading to the main house though, it just shares a wall with my dad's office) So, seeing as neither of us wanted to worry about repaying the loan we took it one step further and built a on bedroom granny apartment on top, that is about 900 sq. feet and the collected rent from the apartment pays the loan and puts a couple hundred dollars a month in my dad's pocket. we took extra steps to insulate the floor, and the neighbors upstairs say the only thing they can hear is the table saw or a die grinder, and it's barely audiable at that.

 

Slightly off the original question, but if you plan to build, call the city's engineering & inspection department and lay your plans out for that address before you make an offer. Avoids nasty suprises with having to request a variance (and risk denial) to do what you want.

 

Pics

 

more pics

 

24x36. 6" thick slab, 2x6 construction, one 18 foot door, t111 siding, 3 tab shingles, no drywall, no insulation, 100 amp service...$8,800.00. Done entirely by myself. No contractors at all.

2 months start to finish, working mostly weekends and evenings.

 

last of em'

 

Built a 30 x 45 (1,350 sq. ft.) two years ago. One 7 x 16 ft garage door and one 36 inch wide entry door. No windows. 10 ft ceiling in half and 12 ft in other half to accomodate a four post lift. Bathroom with sink, toilet and urinal. 3-ton heat pump for temp control. Outside is vinyl to match house style (subdivision requirement). Insurance appraiser put replacement coverage at $67K on my policy.

Jim Winter
The Hot Rod Grille Garage

 

20x30'. (600sq.ft.) 2x4" walls. Nice thick slab with tubing for radiant heat (heat system not inc.). 16' x 8' high door. Small entry door. 10' ceilings. 16' high overall. attic access hatch. Vinyl sided, insulated, drywalled, painted, all electric (100 amp service 110 every 6', 220 every 10' and a 50 amp welder outlet. 4 flouresant 8' x 2 bulb light fixtures, halogen d.way light and a small light by the side door. roof and ventilation fans), 16,000 BTU Air conditioner and a small electric heater (the only heat that is hooked up and it is always warm out there), and repaving my 28' x 24' driveway. Just over $30K and the contractor was done in about 12 weeks over the winter 2 years ago. Oh, and they demo'd and diposed of my rotted out 400 sq.ft. garage too.

 

I stick built my first garage but I went with a "pole building" this time around because I had just moved to a place without a garage and this was the quickest way to get one up. It is a 48x30 with 12' ceiling. It is set up as a 4 car but I could squeeze a couple more in if I wanted, but I prefer the extra room. It cost me about $17500. w/o the concrete. and that includes the extra features you see to dress up the building as the plain Jane versions of these buildings can look rather industrial. I shopped around as concrete prices have skyrocketed around my neck of the woods and ended up paying $5100. for a 6" slab. This does not include insulation or anything as far as finishing the inside. I have been meaning to get some pic's posted to the Garage Journal, but have not got around to it yet. Here's a pic from a garage warming party last April just after I had the floor poured.

 

34x30, 2x6x10' walls, 1-9x16 door and 1 9x8' door. scissor trusses w/ skylights on the big side (for a lift), and attic trusses on the small side. also put in a bathroom. bunch o 'crete, siding, insulation, wiring, doors, woodstove,BEERFRIDGE!, etc. all the work done by myself and a few good friends. $35,000

 

24X40, 14' walls, full insulation 12,000 turn key, less electrical. I think I think I got a hell of a deal.

 

I had a 30 x 40 built a few years ago, so price is probably no longer relevant, can't recall what it cost right now anyway, but I'm a cheap ******* and really shopped. I found a guy in Ohio that specializes in pole buildings, it's all they do, and he said it would be up in one day. It was like watching a finely tuned drill team when they got here. Sure enough they built it in one day, the next day a guy showed up to put the shingles on, and another to hang the doors. I'm really glad I went with a pole building, those posts come in handy for hanging heavy stuff like a 50' hose reel, or some heavy shelving etc. If you build one,MAKE IT HIGH, I only have a 10' ceiling since I never thought of a lift (back then they weren't so common), I really screwed up.

 

I had a 32 x 48 (12 ft ceiling) pole barn built about 4 years ago. Been finishing ever since. I divided it into two halves approx the same size, one for the workshop, the other side for vehicle storage.
Prices are approximate as I have been afraid to look into the file and add everything up.
Basic barn package was approx 14k.
Super insulated doors (2 18x9's, 1 9x9) approx 3k.
A **** loat of concrete...6 inch floor w/ 32 x 22 aprons at each end, approx 8500.
Spray in foam insulation in the walls, blown in, in the ceiling...3500.
Exterior paint..did it myself..approx 900...includes buying an airless sprayer.
Electric, heat, drywall, paint, trim, epoxy floor, misc...don't kow. Have been doing that out of pocket (slowly) over the past several years.

Lessons I've learned, in no particular order.
1). If you plan on putting interior finishes on the walls, go with stick built.
2). 600 ft away from the house is a log way to do the pinch cheek shuffle when the browns want to go swimming. Put a bathroom in your shop.
3). I like doing electrical.
4). I hate drywall.
5). Work on it every day. I haven't and it's taking an ice age to finish it.
6). Epoxy floor coatings are worth it.
7). Put in too many outlets and too much lighting.
8). Ceiling fans are a must.
9). It's cool to have a nice place to work.
10). Install windows. High on the wall, esp on the south and west sides.
11). Probably most importantly, completely finish it before moving your **** in. I've got more miles just moving my stuff around the shop then I care to think about.

Here's an in progress pict.

 

30 x 50 (12' walls) with a 12' porch on the 50' side (truck & horsetrailer parking). Lots of dress up stuff - cupola, gutters, 1' overhangs, 2 OHD, 2 walkdoors, 4 windows, insulated, site prep/fill and concrete - $31,000. I did the wiring and put OSB on the walls, so add another $2K.

It's not a Morton Building, but it should didn't cost like one either!

 

34 by 24 9 foot walls, three retaing walls, 21 dump trucks of dirt had to be removed, all said and done 30k

 

34 by 24 9 foot walls, three retaing walls, 21 dump trucks of dirt had to be removed, all said and done 30k

 

OL 55, Is that a Morton building?

 

we put up a steel arch bldng 25 x50 ... 16 tall (as seen on tv)
wood ends
had two used poly car wash doors(nice and bright inside) installed 10x10+10x8
2 service doors and all done on a slab
we did all asembly sept overhead doors and slab ...3000 bolts
holds 9 cars and we are working on upper level on pallet racking for loose part storage

final cost 14 grand (bought it at auction un***embled)took 5days for bldng ***em(rented a scissors lift) total was 6 weeks
its silver with white ends

and we can make it longer !

our other bldin -shop we had moved in it is two double garages +end to end 22X60 our shop has hit 50 mph...
shoulda added 5 rows of block to set it on only 8 foot ceiling now
currently only 1 car and lotsa stuff fill it up..
paperdog

 

"And I would've gotten away with it too if it weren't for you meddling kids!"

 

This was $10,000.00 turnkey 30x30 insulated with 2 insulated8x8 doors and one walkin. My son did the elec.

 

Just to add somthing.. If you are building cars you want the floor flat with no fall or drop. itshard to square up a car when the floor is not leval. no not put your doors to the north as the cold north wind can cool off a shop fast. one last thing check with your insurance agent.. In my area a stick building will insure for less than 1/3 than a metal unit.

 

No, I couldn't afford a Morton. They are nice though. I used an outfit out of Lancaster Pa. called B&D builders. Its an Amish owned company. Young guy running it, very nice to deal with.........