Technical Anyone ever convert from lug nuts to lug bolts?

That's the only problem I see, Both Mopar and Buick lug bolts have 1/2 inch threads and the holes in the axle flanges may be too large to tap out but if you had the axles drilled and tapped it would work. I'm not sure that the previously suggested 14 mm bolts would would work as the original holes may not be large enough.
I've driven both Buicks and Mopars with the lug bolts and they are a royal pain in the**** to deal with on the side of the road even when you have the line up studs in place. I don't envy you with that setup one little bit.

 

Wouldn't a factory axle flange be heat treated or hardened so the threads wouldn't gaul when bolts are used? Bob

 

I like the idea of machining the holes out for inserts because larger bolts are going to create problems at the wheels. Standard US thread lug bolts are easy to find, any farm or tractor/implement store should have them. I'm running 2 trailers with the old 4 hole travel trailer style wheels and haven't had any problem finding them. Leftys are hard to come by but I think Fastenall can get them.

 

Available just about anywhere, Packard used these for a long time:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ap?ck=Search_N0863_-1_3339&pt=N0863&ppt=C0379

Have you considered the interference on the inside of the axle? And this, from the FWIW dept, the threads in a Packard or most any drum/hub/axle are fairly deep. At least .750+ vs the lack of thickness that many axles have. I'm diggin the thinking, just wanted to 'help', maybe...

 

Axle flanges seem to be made of higher quality steels, and don't always make for easy cuts. (after welding a stud hole, to be relocated...it took me ever harder stones to 're-drill' the location. C4 vette rear flange.

 

The problem I've always had in this situation is not the lug studs, it's getting the tire to fit between the brake drum and the fender.

 

Custom cars have custom problems.
I think I would have worked out the tire Chang issue before I welded the opening shut.
If you don't mind dropping the rearend to change the tires that's great, but sometimes this change needs to happen during inconvenient times and places.

I also think the drum to fender clearance will be more of an issue or the next issue once the studs are out of the way.

 

Ok, I'm curious.... In what sanctioning body will that pass safety tech?

 

blowby is right on the money, it is no problem getting the wheel off the studs but instead the problem almost always is getting the widest portion of the tire between the drum and fender.
Unless your wheel openings are low enough so the stud to fender is the minimum clearance then switching to bolts will buy you nothing.

 

IMSA.

 

I think you should be able to buy 1/2-20 threaded inserts, install them, then use grade 8 threaded rod with nuts that have upset threads to lock them to the threaded rod. (or weld/glue on regular lugnuts) You will have to make cone shaped washers to fit the wheel if you don't use lugnuts. A hub-centric wheel is a must, but a smart guy can make a spacer that is held in like some center caps are. Most people,get their underwear in a bunch about how tight a lugnut/bolt has to be, do some research and you will be surprised how little torque is required on a 1/2-20 lugnut.

The 6 turn thing is probably correct, remember these aren't the common "butter-bolts" that come on your Chinese***** from Wal-mart, and the forces that they are holding are not that great.