So I have a rack and pinion steering on my model A, and since it sat for a long time it now leaks from the boot area on one side. Have any of you ever taken one apart to replace the seals ? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Twenty years ago...and it was on a ferrin car, not a Mustang II type. I'm kind of weird, I would see if I could find the factory shop manual for the donor car, http://www.ebay.com/itm/140644729035 and see what it says. then see if I could find the parts needed. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1134807,parttype,7396
The parts may be the easy part it will be the special tools that could be hard to come up with or try to make.
Kinda like Jim,I replaced the seals & boots on a Dodge Colt rack & pinion about 30 years ago but at that time you could still get the parts and the parts department had the schematic. The interesting part about the Colt is that is was a reverse rack and worked excellent with the Corvair front suspension that was common at the time. If you can source the parts to replace the bad ones I say go for it. HRP
Depends on what the rack is out of. The one I did was dead easy, remove the Pinion first, the rack slid out easy.
In 1979 we had to do them on the Fords but there was a kit of special tools. Often it was a score in the tube that couldn't be repaired. Now the rebuilt racks are pretty reasonable unless it's off a Porsche or something.
Mine is from a ford mustang so it is not expensive to get a rebuilt one, I was just thinking that it couldn't be that hard to do since it is in good condition, and the only issue is the leak. It kind of sounds like it might be more hassle than it's worth though. How about stop leak? Anyone ever use that with good results? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
save the trouble just get a renewed one or a new one . for the price of the tools alone its a break even deal . as for the fix it in a bottle . do not waste your money if the seals are dried out and cracked it will leak again over time .
Is it a power rack? Just an aside, but I was taking a corner with a VW rack and it starter skipping teeth halfway through the corner! Luckily got around the corner, drove home slowly (just a few blocks) and pulled it apart. The VW rack had a conventional bushing at the passenger side but the driver side used a split bushing with an adjusting screw to push the bushing and rack into the pinion teeth. It was, obviously, way out of adjustment.
Stop leak is probably a bad idea, especially if it's a power rack. I replace racks all the time at the shop and at least with a reman unit you get some type of warranty, and very rarely do you get a lemon. Rather than spending the time rebuilding the rack to reinstall it, to find out it still leaks, I'd just replace it. Although I DO take pride in rebuilding parts rather than replacing them, it's usually always about what's faster, cheaper or easier. My $.02. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
mustang racks are cheap i would save myself the headach. I mean after you do it twice then figure out that the seals are going bad because something is bent or worn, you will have to pony up the 225 for a new rack plus the 85 you spent and 7 for the tylenol.
When I had Mustang II in my 39 Ford Coupe I rebuilt the rack for that cat. It was a T-Bird rack early 80's that I used. With the cost of a rebuilt unit I wouldn't consider doing it again. Plus when I did that one I worked in a Foed Dealership, and had all the special tools that I needed to get the job done. The 42 Chevy I am building will get a rebuilt rack in it.
Thanks for the advice, I will just step up and get one of the reman ones. Sounds like it is not worth the head ache! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
guy told me yesterday he had a brand new manual rack for a mustang 11 for 50 bucks if your is manual i could get it for you
Like Jim and Danny I have done them for foreign cars, I was going to do one on a MOPAR product car back in the '90s and discovered that I could buy a rebuilt one as cheaply as I could rebuild the one that we had so I just swapped it out. Guess that makes me lazy. It is no big deal, just nuts and bolts so to speak. get the parts and go after it. if you get lost look for a You Tube tutorial.
And for peace of mind, check the condition of the fluid. Sometimes the tiniest of debris, or metal particles will cause the seals to fail prematurely. While you're replacing the rack blow out the lines and make sure the pump is clean. Happy motoring pal! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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