I used the Reflectix Bubble/Foil stuff from Home Depot on my daily driver Dodge Ram, and some leftover in my '54 Ford's Floor Boards. I looked everywhere for a cheap alternative to Dynamat. No luck there. So I started looking for an adhesive backed bubble/foil insulation. According to Home Depot's webite, they had it. But the 2 surrounding stores only carried Reflectix, which isn't adhesive. It's also really thick. Anyway, I was trying to make my daily a little quieter in the cab. With that modified turbo diesel under the hood, and a 4" straight pipe exhaust, it has a drone that'll drive you crazy. I pulled the door panels, sprayed Rubberized Undercoating on the inner skins of the doors. Then coated the door skeleton with rattle can Spray On Bedliner (It's chicken **** thin). Once that was dry I then sprayed over the bedliner stuff with Spray adhesive, and then layed the bubble/foil **** over that. Cut out the holes, and cut to fit. Popped the door panel back on. Just the two door panels, and behind the seat at the back of the cab made a HUGE difference in sound absorbtion. That was 1 roll of that Reflectix, and I think the cashier messed up cause they only charged me like $3.97 for the roll when it listed for $14.97. I haven't gotten around to doing the headliner, floor and firewall, but I will eventually.
finally, a hamb question i can answer.... the stuff i use is called MFM PEEL AND SEAL, i buy it direct, but most roofing supply stores will carry it or something like it. it works just like dynamat at a fraction of the cost. it runs around 80 bucks a roll. i think it's about 100 sq ft. it helps to lay it out in the sun before you apply it. this will make the adhesive VERY sticky. also, wear gloves, the aluminum backing will act like a razor blade, it's super sharp. and don't be afraid to layer it, the quieter your interior, the less fatigue your mind will endure while driving, making it much more fun to be in your car. i usually put about 3 layers in a roof. it's a good idea to use a good contact cement however, when it gets really hot, it tends to let go if applied upside down (like on the inside of a roof) hope this helps matt more info can be found here www.mfmbp.com
Yeah, I've used it many times for inside doors, quarters, between trunk and cabin, even as a cheap headliner. I just never put it on the floors. Wasn't sure it would hold-up, or melt from heat. I actually have half a roll out there now.
The bubble wrap stuff works great! I have it in the panel truck, on the roof and doors and such. Its light and I use the 3M spray and never had a problem, of course I shake the can well. But I wouldnt use that bubble stuff on the floor. Rather use the fabic stuff, but if I find the dynamat type stuff in the store I'll use that. Satin
i think that is the stuff my son mentioned to me a while bac. Weather Master,(or Weathermaster), comes to mind.
oh doors would maybe spraying on the undercoating/bedliner and then applying the insulation to the wet film work?ot do you think ti will trap the solvents in there?
Thanks, 4woody, for that link. Does that stuff smell like tar? Is it the best thing for heat insulation in a car? Are you sure that this stuff wouldn't be better under a carpet?
The bubble wrap stuff I got from a roofing co. that insulates chicken houses { coupes}. Came in 2 or 4 foot rolls and was cheap, used it to insulate the roof in my garage, Think it's about R-7 value.
I have used the stuff that is for sealing roof ridges. I put two layers down in my truck. It does work good. The backing is some sticky ****. I never had any problems with it. Had it in my truck for about 3 yrs now. I think it cost about $60, and I have already done three cars, and I still have some left. One ***** : It does stink for a day or two, but it goes away and never comes back.
Thanks KCA! I believe that is the product I've been looking for. Thanks to 4woody for the link and to squirrelmurphy for the product review. I am definitely going to pick some of this up and try it. Not only in my old cars but like ******** said, I need to quiet the inside of my Dodge truck too. They're tough but they're noisy *******s.
I would think it would work good. Remember, cars originally had this tar paper stuff stuck to the metal...you know, that paper/black **** thats either a pain to get off, or it falls right off...I have used a thick tar paper once, and it worked good. (I was on a budget, heh ) Go for it...and p*** on the results, then we can all buy it, and drive up the price...heh....just kidding
I used it in a buddy's car and in my 56' Buick, the buick is black with no headliner and it seems to keep it pretty cool. I used it for the same reason, cheap and it looks the same.
I am sure I've seen this stuff used on the job, I work commercial construction and have seen it used for sound and heat insulation. I'm going to find out a little more about it before using it but it sure sounds like it'd do the job.
I just put the reflextix stuff in my car on sunday, then took it down the road , what a difference ! I don't know how it will hold up, but it sure knocked the noise down .
This is the stuff you bought? So how did it turn out? I never have heard anyone say if it smells like asphalt in your car using the other type......
The floor was rusted out on my old Malibu and I used the torch down roofing stuff (it is about a 1/4 inch thick) and a small propane torch to put it down and it was still there and holding up good when I sold the car. Gumpa
I use...and swear by Lizardskin. I've now done three cars...will never use insulation that si thick and unrolls. Lizardskin is not the cheapest, and not the easiest...but it is the best at sound deadening and preventing heat...and it certainly doesn't come in rolls. Besides, spraying a credit card thickness makes mounting seat tracks, seat belts and anything else that you need to a lot easier..no need to cut the 3/8" sticky stuff out of the way first. R-
I have that reflex stuff in my 39. Its in the door pannels, on the roof, the firewall, on the floors, and through most of the trunk area before the 100 sq ft roll ran out. I just bought another roll, it cost $42 a roll, it will take most of two rolls to cover the complete inside of the car, which I plan on doing. Really makes a difference in the temp inside the car (the car is black with no headliner or door pannels). Couldn't tell you about sound deading, its been in the car since the car came here. I have it glued to the firewall, but its kind of wedged into the other places and is between the roof bows and the roof over head, it seems to be staying put real well. On the floors it is sitting on top of the floors with out anything else covering it. After about 400 miles, the top layer of silver is starting to scuff off under the brake pedal just a little. The surface film seems to be OK, just the silver finish is rubbing off, and it doesn't seem to be flattening out or showing signs of breaking down. I think it will be fine with some carpet over top of it. Gene
Do yourself a favor and spend 10 minutes reading http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ you'll find that Fatmat is nothing more than Peal N Seal from Home Depot/Lowes- but ALOT cheaper and no shipping. ANd the best way to do it if your going cheap. But there is a big difference between these products. Especially whether they are asphalt based (fatmat, peel and seal etc.) or not. And it also depends on the temps your car may live in. Head to the last page of the above personal review site and read the conclusion. It will save you a great deal of time and money. To use the better non-asphalt deadeners (dynamat etc.) be prepared to spend $500 to $600 for a medium sized car. But having spent days removing the asphault type undercoating from inside my 1949 car - I DO NOT want that smell back into my car. Nor do I want that mess when it melts in the CA sun. Do yourself a favor and read the above site. It explains why different people in different areas of the US swear by certain types that may fail in your area. It's all about the weather and asphalt or no asphalt. (I wonder though about pvc insulation tape and simple aluminum tape. The pvc insulation tape must be rated to high temps as it is used to wrap around pvc for hot or cold water pipes to insulate it. And it's a closed cell foam that doesn't smell and must cut sound. It's about 1/8 think. I'll have to read the packaging and see what it says.) 49Lincoln
I've been trying to find the Peel-n-Seal but havent had much luck. Do all Home Depots carry it, or is it a regional thing?
I used that stuff under the carpet in a VW like 10 years ago. It made a big difference for the road noise etc. and helped a little keeping in the heat too. It wasn't too expensive either..
They do, but the guys working there had no idea what I was asking for. It's in the roofing section next to the aluminum flashing and vent louvers. There are actually two products they carry; Peel n Seal, and a very sinilar product without aluminum backing for around windows and such. I used it on a door access panel where it would be clamped in place, and the difference in noise and feeling of solidity are amazing. I used Peel nSeal for my truck's floors (only) and can't see any downside. If your exhaust was close to the floor, maybe it wouldn't be a good idea.
i just put reflectix in my 58, along with a layer of jute,similar to what duece Rails showed but without the foil, drove from so. ark. to K.C. and back this past weekend and I must say it was way more pleasant than the trip to Salina a month ago. I also used a couple of sheets of sound deadner from sochse. it acts like dyna mat. I put it in the floor over the mufflers. I think using a combination of products is the best way to go.
The jute products are not a good choice for an open roadster, especially in a place like Florida that has frequent rain. I used the double sided foil jute and it takes days to dry out after a thunder storm inserts itself into a journey. Luckily I can only afford a plastic roadster or I'd suspect that I'd probably be facing a rust issue after a few years.
I've put Peel and Seal on the floor of my Mustang, an F150, a Mazda protege, a Cavalier station wagon, and an MGB. It is VERY effective at killing noise and making the car sound a lot tighter. I've heard of some people having problems with it in vertical and overhead applications where the heat would melt the tar and the adhesive would let loose, but on the floors, so far for the last several years, no problemo.
insulated my truck using peel'n'seal then 3m sprayed the refletix foil bubble wrap over it. so far i have noiced a big reduction in sound and heat in the cab. and no smell. also plan to eventually put jute backed carpet in on top of the works for even more sound/heat insulation and carpeting btw... home depot was a no go here for the peel'n'seal. found it at lowes instead. rolls of 9in by 30 ft or somethign like that for $15. 2 rolls was more than enough for my whole cab, firewall, back wall and doors on my 63 chevy c-10
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