I got some stuff called "Peel & Seal" from a mobile home supply store that worked really good. I did the whole floor of my rat truck for $30. Just warm the sticky side with a little hand held propane torch and make sure you stick it in the right spot the first time, cause it ain't coming back up. I think Lowe's carries it, too.
Anybody have any updates on their install and results? I'm about to do the homemade lizard skin and looking for all the info I can get! Thanks!
The peel and seal fell off of the inside of my door last week. I tried it again using foil tape on the edges. I used homemade lizard skin and reflectix on the roof - the difference is amazing. is there an easy/cheap way to measure this? I'll post pictures later.
peel and seal is the asphalt stuff. reflectix is the bubble stuff. I heated up the peel and seal really good with a heat gun. Weird thing is, it fell off of the door in some spots and others, I CANT pull it off pulling on it with all I got.... Part of the reason why it may not have stay on well is that it is really hard to get my arms in there - my arms were all scratched up the next day. I feel like if you can get to the inside of your doors easily - for application and cleaning the surfaces, you should be fine.
I'mgonna use this to measure, Chevy II http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93983 harbor freight on sale for inside track club members, 6 bucks! Thanks for the update! My doors I think I'm gonna use the bubble wrap stuff under the door panels. I had some brown bread sound deadener around here but I can't find it maybe I gave it away, but I used that on the doors of my OT car and it made them *thunk* nicely and dind't fall off for the couple years or so it was on (but of course it was held on by the door panel. I may do both. Yeah I'll bet that's it, I bet it wasn't the asphalt that let go it was surface dirt or something. I'd love to be able to get that stuff on the inside of my door, I was planning on trying to spray the lizard skin in there too. .I'll try anything to get some heat out
I bought 200' of the Fatmat stuff off Ebay. I actually got Rattle Trap which is 80 mil not 50 mil like Fatmat is. I'm using it in a 1966 Coupe DeVille. It'll have Flow Masters and a killer stereo so I wanted to have some sound deadner in the car. It also has 2 Viaire compressors for the air bag suspension so I wanted to kill that noise as well. I'll report back and let you guys know how well it worked. It was a fraction of the cost of Dynamat Extreme and thicker too! "EZ" Ringgold, GA. 1966 Coupe DeVille
http://63chevyii.com/the_build/2008/march_april.htm I'm not sure what I'll do - maybe try to clean it a little more and try it again. It's a real pain getting my arms in there.
Oh hey you know what I read? was the zinser (alcohol) solvent based primer works great. anything will stick to it, i hear. I'm going to use a quart of that to do the whole car with a brush. Why do you have to get the matt inside the doors? You can't just put it underneath the door panel? That's what I did before with my brownbread and with my tinfoil bubble stuff that I bought here on the hamb and it worked pretty well. If you could shoot or roll that lizard skin in there that would be great too. The peel n stick seems thin enough to do that, just cut out holes for the various things. The other thing I'm going to do is use some adhesive from a fabric shop. Everybody talks about DAP landau top adhesive, if you can get it. I'm going to stop by a trim shop on the way to the car garage today and see if they'll sell me some real glue they use for headliners. I saw that 3m 90 can in your awesome blog. I used that stuff, the strongeset they have, and it's held my bubble wrap 'headliner' on for a year now but its real weak. I'll get some strong stuff before I would feel good about it. That shit is notorious for not holding.
I have also used the duct insulation from Home Depot. Thermwell 12 In. x 15 Ft. x 1/8 In. Self-adhesive Foil/foam Duct Insulation $17.71/EA Each R Value : 3 My car had no insulation, so I have nothing to compare it to. The inside of my car feels like a summer day in hell and it's always going to be loud. It's cheap, so try it if you want, but I am pretty sure I am going to invest in something a little better.
63ChevyII.... thanks for sharing your results. Looking for some good way to insulate the floors of my '65 to keep heat out.
Ya'll need to check out Lobucrod here on the HAMB. Mike is not only one of us but carries a product that i will put up to ANYTHING on the market and it is really not expensive. This is the stuff NASA uses and is so damn easy to work with that my monkey ass even did a hell of a job laying it down. I could go on and on but bottom line this stuff is the best i've ever found..including dynomat. Check out his website, his prices and PM or email if ya have any questions. I promise you that you WILL NOT be dissapointed. Not to mentin your supporting someone who is one of us. Also if your at a swap meet around North Texas look for him or his wife and say HI... Just look for the HAMB sign on his tent. http://www.lobucrod.com/
Man I have to agree with Big Tony. The stuff Lobucrod sells is the cat's ass. I read all the replies on this thread and the first thing that hit me was "Why would use a product on your hot rod that could burn it to the ground" PRICE OF MATERIAL? I have used Mike's material not only on my hot rod but wrapped my hot water heater, wrapped some of my duct work off of my furnace and insulated my garage doors . Check it out before it's too late. Have you guys seen the thread about the rods that caught on fire. Pretty sad, Nuf said! www.lobucrod.com
Damn thought i was the only one... I even lined my daughter ol school lunch box with it and it helps keep things kool in the old metal box...
Actually I have a few rolls of lobucrod's insulation. Worked well enough for me, I'm just starting over and layering everything. My car is HOT! I'm doing the homemade lizzardskin tomorrow, then seal n peel, then the lobucrod stuff, then jute. For the roof it'll just be lizardskin and lobucrod's stuff. Hopefully all that, along with patching and sealing the holes/floorboard rust, will get me where I want to be. If not, I'll just add another layer or two of something. I just don't want to have 6" of insulation on the floor!
ooooooooooooo...shag carpeting.....hey if I could find some I *would* run it! No accounting for taste ;-) Just did the first coat of the homemade lizard skin. The more I read the more I'm certain this is all that the lizardskin stuff is. I just bought 5 more bags for $50, I'm going to do the entire car with the stuff . So far so good. the interior is definitely less tinny, I can tell something is different, kinda like my buddy's car seemed after he put the real deal in. I'm doing coat #2 today, then the rest of the insulation. If I do the underside, wheel wells, and trunk and engine compartment, it'll be like a mercedes. It was a h uge pain to remove the interiorr and patch up all the holes in the floor pan and then prime and paint, but so far so good. I have lots of primer left so I guess I'll use it, but I'm not sure it's necessary. When it runs out I won't bother. It does seem to help adhesion though. I'm using the alcohol based zinser. EDIT: I used a paint roller and a brush to put it on. I could also have bought a cheapie $8 spray gun from HF for undercoating and used that, it just seemed easier to roll it then to try and tilt that gun all the angles I needed it to go, like inside the doors and whatnot. How does it not leak when you do the roof? Go f igure.
I picked one of those up this weekend. I'll post the results below. b/c I wasn't smart enough to think of doing that I'm hoping that the 3m 90 with the aluminum tape on the edges will hold. I'm going to contact him to get a free sample of the stuff. I'd like to see how it reduces heat compared to the other products I tested. Is the Peel N Seal a fire hazard (anymore than jute or carpet)? I hadn't thought of that. I checked out the MSDS sheet on it and they have no rating for it. I've already put the peel and seal down and I don't think it's gonna come up. Maybe I could put a layer of lobucrod's stuff on top of it?
I used it in my chevelle. Its called "Ice shield", its in the roofing section. It worked GREAT. Only about $60 for a 150lb roll of it when I bought it.
Metal Home-Made Lizard Skin(HMLZ) Reflectix Frost King (FK) Peel & Seal (P&S) Metal - 138 deg P&S - 132 deg * HMLZ - 129 deg** FK - 121 deg FK, 2 layers - 113 deg Reflectix - 112 deg FK + HMLZ - 108 deg Reflectix + HMLZ - 101 deg *would not use this on roof, just wanted to see what it did ** only 3 coats, I probably should have done about 6, which I did on the trans tunnel.
Awesome ChevyII! I can't wait to see your results with the thermometer! Actually I keep a meat thermometer in the car half as a joke cuz it was so hot inside, I don't think its gonna be quite sensitive enough for what I wanna do though. I had a stereo installed in an OT car a few years ago, and they put the fancy sound deadener I bought just on top of the door, under the door panel, and it seemed to work fine. Made the door heavier and feel more solid, too. The funny thing is now you got me that maybe I'll put it inside the door instead!! hehe go figure I ended up buying some DAP Landau top glue from here: http://yourautotrim-store.stores.yahoo.net/noname37.html for around $35 shipped. That's by all reports I've read hte stuff upholsterers use for headliners and anything they want to stick like crazy and never come loose. I'm going to use it on the peelnseal in the doors and my headliner and the stuff from lobucrod that I'm going to put on the ceilling, as I was disappointed with my resulots with the $15 a can 3m stuff. I'm thinking any kind of closed celll (bubble) reflective insulating material will probably do about the same thing. i know you could get a helluva a lot of it for $25 at Lowes. I think anything that is specified for an auto gets the priced raised since they know we'll pay more. Not speaking of lobucrod specifically or anything, but put lizardskin in that group charging $200 for stuff that you could buy for $30 from another place, pre mixed! And stating that you need to use a special $180 gun to spray it, when you can put that stuff on any ol way and be just fine. http://www.hytechsales.com/insulating_paint_additives.html http://www.hytechsales.com/insulating_paints.html
my results are posted above your post. I think it would be best to buy the hy-tech stuff pre-mixed, instead of messing around with the spheres and mixing it yourself. At least I think that's the route I'll go next time. I was going to buy the 'DAP Landau top glue' too, but my understanding is that you have to spray it? I didn't really want to mess around with that this time.
Shoot my reply just got eaten , but I wanted to be the first to say thanks for all your hard work in testing and for posting your results! Very interesting! No 30degree drop from the HMLZ alone huh?!? That's what their website would have you believe! I don't think my friend's car with the real thing dropped 30 degrees, that's for sure. How much material did you use for your install?! I did 2 coats on the inside of my car, inside doors and inside rear quarters that I could reach, and used 2 gallons of paint and 2 'gallons' of spheres. Now you've got me wondering if I did enough?! Time isn't on my side and I'm out of spheres, maybe I'll just have to settle for covering the floor up now and shooting the underside with a coat and hope f or the best. Iknow once I put that P&S down that's it, it ain't coming back up!!! I hate pulling that seat out, but maybe I can cheat and not do the P&S and do some additional coats when the other spheres get in. I can't wait to hear what you did! Thanks!
I only did 3 coats on the roof b/c I knew that I was going to use the reflectix. Now I'm wondering if I should have done more. I'm pressed for time. I'm trying to get the interior back together for the car show my car club is hosting (john force show on may 31st). I did 3 layers on most of the floor and 6 on the hot areas - (trans tunnel, firewall, above the exhaust). I didn't think that the peel & seal did much for heat, so thats why I doubled up on those areas. I don't think I want to use the reflectix on areas that will be stepped on. I mixed it really thick - for every gallon of paint I used about 1.5 bags of the spheres.
Thanks for all your effort 63 Chevy II. So the winner is Hoomade lizrd skin and Reflectix, with Frost king a close second. A 37 degree drop is alot. Did your Microspheres come in a Gallon ziplock (mine did) or something else?
no problem... it's nice to be able to contribute something to this site. I ordered 4 gallons and I got 4 bags. They weren't zip locks though. I assume each bag was a gallon. I have a sample of the lobcrod stuff on the way. Hopefully this next weekend I'll be able to take some new measurements and see how it compares to the other brands.
Hey guys, check flea bay for micorspheres, some people are selling it CHEAP some examples: http://cgi.ebay.com/Microspheres-mi...ryZ75576QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/3M-SCOTCHLITE-G...VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247
This is where I got it: wickes I am a little worried about whether or not the peel and seal is a fire hazard. Then again, the ceramic spheres should act as a fire retardant I think I was poking around and someone on another forum said that it was less of a fire danger than dynamat extreme. I wasn't able to find anything to verify this. What do you guys think? I know that they say that the peel and seal stuff will work in temperatures up to 180 degrees. There isn't any testing though regarding it's fire resistance The lobucrod stuff is extremely fire resistant.
Thanks for the heads up on the microspheres on ebay. I just ordered 5 bags from hytechsales.com. I don't know if there's any difference or not, I'd guess there isn't, just that one is more expensive than the other. ChevyII if you're really worried about the fire resistance then try to burn some and see what happens. I can tell you that my shoebox Ford has some kind of tar on the floorpan and it just melts when I weld around it, doesn't catch fire or anything. I don't think they'd let you put it on your roof if it caused a problem like that, but I'm just guessing. My unsophisticated test with a halogen lamp on the outside of the car had it pretty daggone hot on the outside, too hot to touch, and on the inside it wasn't easy to find where the lamp was centered, it was definitely cooler. I'm still not sure if I have a credit card thickness amount on the surfaces though, after 2 coats. I'm going to do one more and call it done. I actually tossed out some of the lobucrod insulation that I had on the floor. It was just worn out and worn through. I think it's going to be really good on the roof, but I just don't know how well it'll hold up on the floor, even underneath a layer of jute. I had been using it alone on the floor, I needed something to help with heat so I'd had that on the floor by itself.
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