ChevyII- Yep! I dumped maybe 4 gal? of spheres into 3 gal of black paint , cheap ext. latex I got at HD. I ended up getting like 6 coats of it on the front fenders/engine compartment, and then used the rest on the interior, and have maybe 4 or 5 coats on that I used a cheap undercoating gun I got off ebay for $30 and it worked fine. Easy to clean, too. It really gives the texture of a lizzard Today I'm going to lay down the peel n seal, which was a lot cheaper and HD, surprisingly(whatever their brand was). and hopefluly finish this whole insulation thing. I have the DAP Landau top adhesive, and I have a couple different guns to spray it from, but if worse comes to worse I'll just roll the stuff if I have to. I'm going to use it everywhere I can, including the ceiling. Then hopefullly if I get all this done I'll add the lobucrod insulation and jute, and call it done.
From everything I've heard, yes, you'll be in for hell getting that stuff off. I ran the lobucrod stuff by itself until I could get things done properly, and it sure helped me a lot. I think you'll be in for a lot of work with a torch and a scraper if you want to get the peel n seal off.
Just did my west facing garage doors..cut the surface temp yesterday (temp outside 103*)from 114* (sun heated afternoon direct sun) to 88* on the door. Inside temp with just a small box fan was 86*..but with 3% humidity not too bad. I think a small AC unit is in my future though..soon it'll be 110-115* everyday for a couple months. 80* to 82* would be good inside... Costco..$299 special..12000 btu....hmmm...wife ask's "did you order it yet"..need to strike NOW. Also have done the bulkhead (inside firewall)..works well...got enough left to do the small interior of the 120...
Bit the bullet... Costco..$349 w/shipping. 12,000 btu... I will live this summer..especially during monsoon season. I'll be working without the 115* blast furnace atomsphere in the garage... I am a happy man...well..when it gets here..uh..and if it works well..
Just this past weekend I lined the floorboards and door panels with two layers of Peel and Seal from Lowes (at $15 per roll/6 inchx24 feet). Laid down nice and easy. Looks f'ing great. And really cut the resonance in the cab. I highly recommend if you want to take the word of a know-nothing Grenade Inspector.
Hey Chevy how is yours working for you? You do anything on it lately? EDIT: I shoulda been at the garage hours ago but I've been lazy today...I'm gonna get off my A$$ and go now tho
FWIW I put down the peel n seal stuff from HD today(its not that brand, but its cheaper, 6" x 75 feet? for $30. I got some other stuff from lowes and I actually liked it better but it was only 50 feet I think. Putting that stuff down on the floorpan was a real pain. Adhesion is for complete S*$! A torch is a great idea to heat it to get it to stick, but I was doing it fast, no time for that. On a vertical surface, no way it'll stick without that DAP landau cement. Maybe it'll work for a while if you heat it with the torch, but I'd never trust it to stay in place indefinately. I put the P&S inside the doors as high as I could and inside the kick panels and rear 1/4s. It really helps the doors feel more solid. I'm going to put it on the backside of the door/kick/quarter panels along with the reflectix, as I think that'll be the best way to guarantee it'll stay vertical. On my OT daily I had similar stuff installed and it made the doors feel more substantial as well, just a little added weight but the sound changes to a 'thud' . I believe chevyII is correct, the P&S is goiong to work for sound deadening more than a heat barrier. I'll take what I can get I also used the DAP landau glue to put the Lobucrod insulation on my roof. It seems to be up there pretty good, much better than with the $15 can of 3m spray stuff. I need to get more of the reflectix type insulation so I can do my complete floorpan and inside panels. Lobucrod's stuff is fine, but after getting 2 rolls? or more I think reflectix will be fine at a cheaper price. I put the lobucrod stuff on the floor above the P&S, and I'll probably lay down a layer of reflectix as well before I put down a layer of jute. If I need more insulation in the future I'll probably just add more jute or reflectix on the floor before I put carpet in.
just to add that I'm still working on this and have some interesting results so far. I'd like to know if anybody has come up with a reliable test to compare insulation. I can say that my roof was 155 degrees outside and 95 inside after homemade lizardskin and lobucrod insulation. Still kinda hot so I put aluminum backed jute on the roof as well. Absolutely killed outside sounds. Like a quiet chamber now. Haven't tested it in the heat. I need another layer of reflectix on the firewall/toeboards. The lobucrod stuff really helped.
This stuff is all well and good, but I'm going to spring for a thing called Vortex. Its like a spray on liner but its a real interesting thing. Not only does it come in about a hundred different colors, it will go on as thick as you would like it to be, and its pliable. http://www.vortexsprayliner.com/
Many things targeted to a specific market, for a high price, are in fact much more common in other applications. This is but one of them. Good find.
I was just doing a search and saw this question, sorry I didn't reply sooner. When I finally read the package I discovered that the jute with foil backing is supposed to be installed foil side towards the heat source. I used lobucrod's stuff on the roof, and then the silver side of the jute. I kept it in place using DAP landau top adhesive. I shot it with an industrial cup-style paint gun from HF I paid $12, and it cleans right out with mineral spirits. If there's something that'll hold stronger than that, I don't know what it is. I think its good for around 220 degrees? or so, and my car on a hot day the roof gets to about 155.
Sorry I didn't see this sooner. I am basically done with the insulation and have been driving my car some. http://www.63chevyii.com/the_build/2008/may_june.htm I haven't installed the rear seat yet or installed the headliner, but for the most part the interior is done. I think I probably should have done a second layer of peel and seal on the floor. I'm helping a friend put this stuff in his OT vehicle. I'll let you know how it works out.
Had some time to kill today so I thought I'd do a little back woods test with our insulation. Here's the results. First I took an old shovel (commonly refered to around here as a two handed idiot stick) I had laying around with a broken handle. I sprayed some 3M trim adhesive to both surfaces and stuck on the insulation then trimmed it off for a more aesthetic appearance Leaned it up outside in the direct sunlight and let it set for about 20 minutes. Checked the ambient temp and it was 98.6 (hum that sounds familiar). Tested the sunny side of the shovel with my hand first and it was somewant uncomfortable at almost 122 degrees. Checked the insulated side and got a reading of a bearable 99.5 degrees. I decided to spray some HotRod flat black paint on the sunny side of the shovel to see if I could get it to absorb more heat than the original RatRod bare metal/rust surface did. after about 10 min in the sun it got up to a whopping 139.8 deg. While the insulated side was only 104 degrees Oh and when you smack the back of the shovel instead of getting that ringing noise it sounds like you are hitting a block of wood.
wow, looks good. Here's another test that might give some interesting results: side 1 - no insulation side 2 - insulation 1.take off half of the insulation on side 2 2.spray that entire surface of side 2 with flat black(so that the surface of the insulation (side 2) and surface of shovel (side2) have similar 'reflection' qualities). On side 2, you could also cover two sections with tape, instead spraying. Have one section in the insulated area and one section where there is no insulation. Use these areas to take your temp readings. 3. put the shovel out in the sun with side 1 facing the sun. 4. take 2 temp measurements of side 2, one for area with insulation, the other for area without insulation I've heard that the results that you get from the temp gauge can vary based on the reflective qualities of the surface you are testing (it probably says so in the instructions provided by gentech) This seems like it would be more of a 'real-life test.' side 1 is like the roof of your hotrod, out in the sun, side 2 is like the inside of your hotrod, which is hot b/c of the exposure to the sun of side 1. Seems like the inside is most likely going to be a little cooler than the outside, even if there's no insulation. By testing side 2(which was insulated on one half, and not on the other) we'll know now much of a difference the product makes, vs no insulation at all.
I used Hushmat, http://www.hushmat.com/new/Performance/index.htm I was givin 1/2 a box and that covered my firewall and part of my floor 1/2 way under my front seat ( 54 chevy sedan ) but I covered EVERYTHING, I crawled under my dash and did as much of the firewal as I could reach. I sanded and brushed on POR-15 first and this stuff stuck like glue, and was pliable, had no smell and cut my noise and heat down considerably. I don't sell this stuff, its just MHO. yea, its not cheap but it works.
I have given a few cheaper solutions a pretty fair shake: homemade lizardskin, jute with foil backing, peel n seal, fiberglass with silver backing, lobucrod's insulation, and ebay reflectix. It kills me to say this, as I've done a lot of work to try and find a cheaper, equivalent alternative, but I can't. Lobucrod's insulation works very, very well. I was totally skeptical, but its the thinnest, most easy to work with insulation I've found, and also the most effective at radiating heat. I may buy some more, but it'll have to wait cuz I'm just so damn cheap. And stubborn
i just did my roof, floor and firewall with reflectix before it went over for upholstery. 100 sq ft for 43 bux. not sure on the insulating properties because it was only driven from my shop to the upholstery shop, but the sound deadening was night and day. i'll give a more detailed and subjective but decidedly unscientific report when i get the car back next week.
might as well bring this post back to life, just because it has good info. if you guys want to get the peel and seal role in 36 inch wide do a special order from HD or go to your local roofing material house. Allied roofing material should have it or ABC roofing material. i have used it in our roofing biz one of the key things to get to stick is make sure the surface is as clean as possible. we have also used Henry's asphalt airisal primer to help make it stick better, but it will leave a smell. also get some type of roller to help push it on or even a putty knife with maybe the corners rounded so you don't cut it while rubbing. cause you really have to rub it on to get it to stick good. i personally have used that double foil sided bubble stuff, in our cars. my dad used it in both his cars when it first came out and it really worked great it made a comfortable drive to the Paso show. unlike the year before the install. we were sweating like slaves.
Slightly off topic, but something to consider. I just did a second floor addition on my home, I used the reflectix with foil tape as an interior insulation/vapor barrier on the ceiling, covered the whole inside of the roof with it. I now realize that I have turned my entire home into a "dead zone", my cell phones now work for shit at home. I should have known something was "up" when the radio's reception (that I was listening to while I worked) continually got worse and worse as the project progressed. Anyone notice this type of thing with using your cell phone in your car, or maybe problems with a hidden interior radio antennae?
On a positive note, I don't have to wear my tinfoil hat that prevents aliens from reading my mind ...at home anyway.
does anyone know if there is a juke product that is mildew resistant? going to use the lizard skin,then put the juke under the carpet. dam japanese cars used the stuff that looked like pressed lint, and after sitting in my garage that crap smells like ass. it all has to come out, carpet is already out,but the remainder behind the dash has to be ripped out. I know bad choice of cars,but the question is relevant in this thread. very good ideas i've read as far as replacement insulation. Down here in the deep south the humidity gets so bad that mildew will grow in a car parked inside of a garage.
The tar backed stuff you are talking about, I think is what we in the north call "iceshield" you put it on the roof under shingles; it's self sealing and remains flexible. In general you just peel off the sticky backing and plaster it down, it's about 1/4 inch thick, just like Dynamat. The only problem is that it usually comes in huge rolls (like 30 inches by 30 feet) so you might have to go to a contractor friend.
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