here's the website for ABC. there like the HD of roofing material. there should be one near your town. https://www.abccatalog.com/categoriesandproducts.asp?idcategory=867
*****-a-thane falls down when the car gets hot from the sun. Tried it. It might work ok on the floor.
the stuff that falls, there is nothing to say you can't attach it with a different adhesive. I used to have some upholstery glue that was the superglue of upholstery glues, I will try and remember the name, you could have probably stuck bricks to your roof if you wanted.
In May, I used the ceramic beads from Wickes mixed into elastomeric roofing paint from Lowes on the floors, toe boards, kick panels and inside the doors of my 48 Plymouth Coupe. Covered the home-made lizzard skin with the Peel and Seal shown above. Used a hair dryer to heat the backing before sticking it down. Then covered the floor with some cheap foil backed insulation that JC Whitney had on sale. My car is a daily driver and is parked in the driveway not in a garage. Went through a summer in Dallas with NO tar smell in the car and only one piece of the Peel and Seal coming loose on the kick panel. The piece that did come loose was over two fairly large cutouts on the kickpanel so there was not a lot there for it to grip on to. Has made a big difference in the sound and temp inside the car. Made driving bearable during the summer. I will soon be taking the headliner out to do the home-made lizzard skin and insulation to the roof and then the trunk divider.
FWIW I used the peel n seal on my floor and inside doors/quarters...I used the dap? landau top glue and it has held about 90%, and I didn't do any sort of surface prep, it's really irregular tar paper remnants or something in there that I stuck it to. Just a few sheeets had slight peeling at a corner or two. I figured if it falls to the bottom of the door or quarters so what. When I finally put the car together I'll put the reflectix/peel n seal behind the door panel so it'll stay up
hey guys i work at the depot( regertably ) the stuff you are talking about is in building materials with the shingles it is used for valley flashing we keep ours next to the roof felt i will get the name tonite and let you know
on the same topic,and slightly off topic, the stuff that looks like molded tar, that is glued to the floor pans, does the dry ice trick work? you are supposed to be able to freeze it and a hammer hit is supposed to shatter it. also on old screw holes in floor pans other then welding them up, if the holes are cleaned to bare metal and sealed with a good epoxy based primer, then an automotive mastic is used to fill them,should corrosion be a problem? i mean the car already has built in holes with rubber plugs. just trying to prep my floor before i put down the insulation.
Thats a BIG Negative Ghost Rider! In order for signal to transfer, it requires 3 things: Frequency, Strength, Line of Sight. If you take any current day Remote Controled IED Defeat cl***es (CREW Systems such as the Duke or the Warlock), youll learn that, increased insulation will indeed inhibit signal from entering your vehicle. Although, it will not totally halt it, it will indeed affect it to a degree. Below are a couple of open source references with a tiny tidbit of info to what we have been learning as of lately. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IED_jamming_systems http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/systems/ground/crew-2.htm http://***ets.opencrs.com/rpts/RS22330_20071121.pdf
Mildew resistant is just that, resistant not proof. Mildew is not the only problem with insulation that can absorb moisture. We all have dealt with rotting our floor boards in old cars we are rebuilding. Thats because the old jute insulation holds moisture. What you need is a product that will not absorb any moisture then you dont have the mildew problem either.
Mold requires a feeding source as well as moisture to grow. Old Jute has cotton a natural material that mold thrives on. If you take away the food source it wont grow. Materials like wood, paper, cotton, wool, etc. are an open invitation. Fibergl***, foam, metal are not good sources for mold growth. There are mold sealers....like this one that do a good job for blocking. We use them on Mold remediation jobs we do. http://www.specialtyproductsco.com/Mold Sealer.htm
yea they put the stuff under the carpets and it absorbs water,as well as behind the dash. the heater core went and it soaked up all the coolant, thats why the carpet had to go,it was 22 years old anyway and in pieces. I was hoping someone has come up with a synthetic version of the old stuff. The floor pans weren't damaged, as soon as it happened i ripped out the carpet and the juke backing ****. it had glued itself to the floor.
FWIW I e-mailed Reflectix because on their web-site they specified an air-gap for their product. The reply states "in your application you don't have to worry about having the air gap. What we have heard of most people doing is just gluing it down to the sheet metal and then putting the extra sound deadener on top of that." I am building a '56 4-door chevy wagon and want to make it as quite and cool as I can (I live in Texas). I'm still concerned about the P&S melting into a mess. I put the "bubble-wrap" on the floor of a pickup several years ago and you would burn your hand on the bare metal and you go barefooted on the bubble-wrap. I think on the roof and vertical surfaces will be Reflectix with Lobucrod's product over that for the sound deadning.
I am worried that the air bubble stuff will eventually pop (its just packing bubbles anyway). After it pops from all the in and out foot traffic, your just left with the foil...
i plan on using it..if its the same stuff you guys are talking about even.. I got an entire roll of it.. about 4' x 50'..no sticky..i will probably 3M it in place. but not on the floor. in doors, quarters, behind the kick plates, like that.
FWIW the bubble wrap I got off ebay that looks like reflectix is in no way as good as lobucrod's insulation. 1 layer of lobucrods = 3 or 4 layers of the other stuff. 2 layers of lobucrod's stuff knocks out around 80 or 90% of the extreme heat I was getting off my floorpan and is still thin and lightweight enough to glue on my roof without fear it will come down some day. I suggest synthetic carpet paddding from home depot as a jute alternative. I'm going to use that over the inslation to protect it and absolutely kill noise. At least that's what the jute I've been using does.
Uh, no thanks. Your buddy already did all the product testing I need. **** burns when you light it on fire. Genius.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=154017-81326-PS625 Is this what you are looking for...?
Great information here!!! My Amigo used lobucrods product and it is fab. Easy to work, very conforming friendly and really knocked his noise level from loud as hell to very comftable level. I vote for supporting a H.A.M.B. brother who is also a Alliance Vendor. Do we need to be supporting Lowes, Home Depot etc. I thought his shovel test was very telling, and you can see how nicely the product is form fitted on the shovel head. His price seemed fair to me and I am using it in my present project. Good luck Mike in your full time commitment to the insulation business, I hope the H.A.M.B sisters and brothers give your great product proper consideration.***!! In lobucrods corner wearing yellow and white!!~~Sololobo~~
they call the insulation " ice and water shield" roofing supply stores!!! used on roofs in cold climates a the first course of tar paper to stop ice and water for backing up under shingles>>>> looks like dyna mat
That's impressive. Percentage wise the insulated side is respectively 18% and 25% cooler than the heated side.
Lobucrod's tests approximately match my own testing in my car. I'm going to do a tech about insulation sooner or later, but the standard bubblewrap style insulation needs 3 or 4 layers to insulate as much as just one layer of lobucrods. For sound reduction, nothing has worked as well as jute in my car, its an absolutely amazing difference.
Hey Lobocrud, Waht did it smell like, did it have an asphault like smell? How well was it bonded at it's highest tempeture? Did it feel like it could be slid or peeled off? I just reroofed my house and have tons of the **** leftover. When the stuff was hot, it was gooey and messy to work with. Just wondering what it would do on a hot firewall.
For what its worth i have used dynamat and the stuff from home depot but i think dyna mat is heavier .i don't know your motivation money or availablility .if its available i have used a product used in the rv industry for motorhome engine compartments. Its quite and absorbs heat .but it ain't cheap.
I am in the middle of doing my caddy in the peel n seel. Same place as rusty pipes got his. bout $70 a roll. I have the entire rear half of the caddy done and the roof. I figure I'll get all the doors done and probably run out. And rusty is dead on when he said it has to be warm out for it to work. I was out there the other day and get got cold on me and just wouldn't stick. So if you're working in the cold like I am at night set the roll up in front of a couple shop lights and bring a blow dryer with you. It doesn't have to be that hot but a little warm goes a long way. I'll post up pictures when I get them off my phone..
When your roofing with it, its just the opposite. If you leave it out in the sun, it becomes too sticky and pliable to work with. I had to keep the rolls in my ba*****t and bring them out just before I installed it.
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