I bought a commuter Volvo with 207K on it and the guy used Amsoil for years,24K oil changes,12K filter change. I'm thinking about using it in my "Modified". Anyone use it? Fred
don't know about the oil, but the filters are the shiznit, pretty much best you can get... synthetic, in my opinion, is best left for a recently broken-in "new" car, and then used exclusively. unless the mnfctr says not to...
I like Golden Spectro for tight, highrevving bike motors, my '96 VFR for instance. it's good stuff, lower-priced through bike warehouse operations than Amsoil seems to be around here according to their sales literature and local pricing.
My grandfather ran nothing but that in a string of Datsuns he owned over the years...had a '79 or '80 210 that he put at least 300,000 miles on before a rebuild...it had NO ring groove whatsoever... Brian
I've got to admit that I too run synthetics, but I'm lazy and can't be bothered to run down oil that's only sold a few places in town. So, I run Mobil 1 in my new cars, and I torture them. You can find it everywhere, and on occasion, even find it on sale.
The stuff is made here. I've used their gear lube in my race car rearends and gearboxes. I liked it a lot. Never ran the engine oil as we were constantly changing it and Valvoline never let me down in 30+ years. If you have leaks the synthetics will find 'em....
I took an interest in synthetics early on as my dad was an airforce pilot and the aircraft industry used synthetics before they were available for general public use. When they were introduced to the public Amzoil was a**** the first. At that time Consumers Report did a comparison of the brands that were available. Amzoil was at the top by a wide margin and that impressed me as I consider Consumers Report to be one of the most honest testing (comparison) establishments around. I've not seen a recent comparison test done but talking with the local Amzoil dealer they are still at the top of the heap. Im sure that the compe***ion has closed the gap somewhat but when the next candidate I have for synthetics comes along, Amzoil will be my choice. Frank
It's supposed to be real good stuff but I would not recommend using it in a high mileage car that is used to standard engine oil. It seems to shorten the engine's life substantially, at least in my case. However, in something newer with low miles I would suspect this stuff to work rather well.
For a high miler try Shell Rotella and now Castrol has a "High Mile" oil out Both dinosaur oil with a better wear additive package. If you see an oil with CH rating it has that package as thats what diesels use. Ive got around 360K on a 85 318 Dodge B250 van and except for shot valve guides (maybe just seals) it is like the Energizer Bunny. Never had the valve covers off. Has had nothing but Kendall, Wolfs Head, Castrol and Rotella in the 17 years Ive owned it. A Volvo is just getting broken in at 250K, my wifes 94 940 is around 170K. Just be sure to change the cam belt every 60K. Some Volvos ARE interference engines and if you lose a belt say bye bye to the engine.
Amsoil was one of the first synthetics available to the public. I dealt with it in the "Military" so there was no questioning the quality when it came out to the public(70's?). Since then, many others entered the market and have incorporated other ingredients for added stability and surfaction. It's great buying a used car that ran the stuff since new..., because it does work..., you won't see the normal wear as with regular motor oil.
ive never used it,but i have had freinds that use it.a guy i know pulled out the dipstick on his honda or whatever it was,and he ran it all year with the stuff.damn oil looked brand new,and still felt good.its actually cheaper when i comes down to it.ive heard soo many horror stories when it comes to using synthetic in older cars i never wanted to take the chance.even in rebuilt motors.ive run valvaline for soo long im glued to it.actually found dirt in the bottom of new castrol gtx oil bottles.quaker states preety good too.if i switched to anything it would be kendell.alot of racers in my area use it. eric
i don't know about their engine oil but their 2-cycle oil is absolutely the ****!!! ran it 100:1 in the banshee ,, ran way better and didn't seem to have any adverse wear. and this thing got the hell beat out of it
[ QUOTE ] quaker states preety good too. [/ QUOTE ] Everything I've heard says Quaker State is ****. It turns to foam at high RPMs and you lose all your oil pressure!
"Everything I've heard says Quaker State is ****. It turns to foam at high RPMs and you lose all your oil pressure" Gee, then if you use QS and a Fram filter you wont have oil pressure even at low rpm!
Didn't Amsoil have a service where they would ****yze your old oil for various contaminants? Or was that some other firm?
I run the Amzoil 2 stroke in both of my Millenium Edition Sea-Doo's. Got over 150 hours on each boat,and that has to be THE HARDEST 300 hours I have ever put on ANYTHING. I start them,idle out to the channel,and we run them WFO till either the rider,or the boat,is out of gas.......Hell,half the time the pump is out of the water,and the engine is bouncing off the rev limiter !!! Everything else I own,gets Mobil-1..........
if the car already has amsoil in it then i would keep running it.. i bought a brand new peterbilt in 1999 and put amsoil in it at about 45,000 miles with a byp*** filter system.. i did not change the oil until it had over 360,000 miles on it just changed filters every 15 to 20k and had oil ****yzed.. the only reason why the oil was even changed was because a injector started leaking and contaminated the oil, other wise it was still good...the truck has over 600,000 on it know and when the last overhead was ran it everything still looked like new..amsoil is the only oil i will run i new engines it doesn't well with high mileage ones just seems to leak or burns it...
maybe i should elaborate.i dont use quaker state,but ive seen it hold up good.in famliy memebrs cars.soo maybe i was a little vauge.oh yes fram filters are junk.except the hp series in my opion,but is better suited for a race car.of course people will disagre on oil types for hours. eric
In hypoid gear rearends, I have heard that synthetics don't do so well because of the way the gears slide and the synthetics not having enough shear. I've heard this a few times. My personal thoughts on this, I plan on running conventional 90W gear oil in the rear with Lucas oil stabilizer (that stuff keeps the oil coating the gears, it's thick like honey). In my hydro, since it will be behind a high-horse motor, I plan on trying the Allison and Caterpillar recommended TranSynd fluid unless someone tells me not to. That's a synthetic that is specially formulated for Allison for use in Motor Coaches, Firetrucks, Busses, and heavy earth-moving equipment. For my engine, I will probably go with Mobil 1 synthetic because it's readily available and I do hear good things about it. Although I may consider something else.
I'm with Carl when it comes to Dino oils. Shell Rotella! Easy to buy in bulk, cheap enough to run in a leaky or oil burning engine, or in an engine that requires 1000 mile oil changes (or 500 mile changes). It stood up to the super high heat that ruined pistons and heads when I toasted a pair of engines. The oil was still decent. I've got a few cases of mismatched oil that's been gathering dust in the back of the shop. I'll use it on the lathe or bandsaw instead of an engine.
Amsoil is great stuff,but hard to find. I run Mobil-1 in everything I own(including lawnmowers,snow blowers and rototillers).My 94 Buick Roadmaster has 135k,the 96 Chevy trk has 125K,the 90 S-10 has 140K . I run the Mobil for 5000 miles between changes and this seems to work well for me.Icontacted Mobil and they said I was changing the oil too much.They stated I could go 8000 to 10,000 before I needed to change oil,but I figure fresh oil and filters is cheap insurance. Chuck Fish
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