Most AV8 motor mounts are attached just under the top of the frame. It looks like it would be better mounting it lower. Does anyone have pictures or advice? 29 frame, 8BA, F1 xmember, 39 trans, torque tube. I plan to lower the xmember Thanks
Because I want to get back of the trans and torque tube under the stock crossmember and the angle of the carb/ intake has the motor at enough of an angle that I think it will fit better at the cowl if I drop it down a little
There are many things consider for engine placement. Radiator hose clearance is one. I left my front mounts and rear crossmember loose until all things were fitted. Notice c clamps on mounts. also pan is close to ground for scrub line as mentioned.
Hmmmmmm, no reason that it wouldn't work. Lower center of gravity too. I would mock up everything like @ydopen said. Likely other fitment issues will occur, steering box, drag link, wish bone, clutch linkage, exhaust. I'd like to see this- keep us updated if you slam it together
I am running a '32 frame under my '28 roadster. We extended the corners on the rear portion of the Model A crossmember to incorporate the engine mounts. There was a build on here that did it that way and I liked how it looked. Plus, it took the stress off of the the skinny portion of the frame rail. I'll try to get a pict.
There are several problems with lowering the front motor mounts on a V8 A, mine are ta the top of the frame rail and if they were lower my radiator hoses wouldn't work. I set the rear crossmember where the base of the carbs were level and when I started driving the car I discovered that the torque tube ran down hill toward the transmission and allowed the rear end grease run forward and had to raise the transmission mount to eliminate the problem but my coupe has a stepped frame and a fair rake. As several people pointed out you will have scrub line problems, my wishbones and below the bottom of the oil pan.
^^^^ Ditto, @ Model A Gomez. Same exact things on my Deuce railed '27 Hiboy. I'd done similar layouts for years, so 1976 would be a year to do my chassis just 'slicker' than most. My rails were narrowed in front, (pinched at cowl, but kept going with the 'T' theme... Welded everything in, then by chance noticed the pan had really come down. Built the engine and trans mounts low, so the floor dropped between the wide parts of the rails. Driveline was 'graded' 2 degrees down to the*******. Cut and weld.*****. Came out nice finally, but I was being hounded by customers that just couldn't wait! Question: Are those the Deuce side rails inboard your running boards? Model A fenders?
Nope it's a Model A frame that's been stepped in the rear to sit the way I wanted it to, that was part of the problem since it raised the rearend in relation to the transmission. With the weight of the engine and trans added there was too much rake and I had to rebuild the trans crossmember to raise it an inch. Of course I discovered the problem when a pinion bearing failed and locked up the rearend but it only damaged the pinion bearings, twisted the left axle when the key sheared.
This is hot rodding there is no reason it won’t work, however it may take so trial and error and some fabrication to make it work! I made a 261 Chevy six work in a heavily modified model A chassis.
That'll happen with a hypoid center pinion. Best is a Quickie, driveshaft drops 3.5" from center, or thereabouts...
Is it safe to say that the torque tube should be level at ride height? I think that in order to get me carb level I will need to be at the top of the frame with the motor mount
The Jalopy Journal
