Anyone used Harbor Freight's vaccuum brake bleeder kit?

On some systems you have disengage the metering valve (which is part of most units) and on some units you also have to dimantle the pressure differential switch. Otherwise you can't bleed the system no matter which method you use.

 

Thanks for the "speed bleeder" tip. Ordered 4 of them at $7.00 each and $6.00 for there bleeder kit. Shipped same day and should have by this weekend. Good company to deal with.

 

I bought the Mighty-Vac..didnt get it at H.F.
no H.F. near me..think i got it at carquest..anyways..I will not be of much help to you...
I broke the dam thing 2 weeks after i opened up the package.
I set it in a box that i later threw some junk parts in and smashed it

but i salvaged the hose, the cuplings and nozzels and cup and gravity bleed my brake lines anyways that little cup and hose comes in handy for that job

 

I see the Mighty-Vac is on sale until April 6th for $29.99 instead of $39.99 and I have a 15% off coupon. I looked it over and it might help but I think all that a vaccuum on the bleeder end will do is start you on a gravity bleed.

It occurred to me I could just put a sandwich bag over the hose and see if I can use myself as a vaccuum source and not get a mouthful of that shit in the process, if I go that route.


I did change that valve in this - when I got this truck it had sat in a barn for a couple years and everything under it was in bad shape. So I got a used one for it. I think it even has a reset button on it if you can get to the thing, but that I know of it has no means to disable it. The fluid will drain right out of the system if there's a leak just from gravity, so if I pop a bleeder and put some air on the master it aught to push it through the same way.

I'm still surprised that line rotted so fast, but it may have been rubbing on the frame rail a little - more GM assinine engineering, the line has to bend in a goofy way to meet the ear on the frame the hose clips to, if they'd moved that ear ahead 2" it would be 100 times easier to get into, where it is now you need to bend the line so it curves both around and down and it's still a pain to get it to thread straight. These guys who design this shit need to work on more cars themselves, in the driveway in the cold at night with just basic tools.

 

get the metal one if your getting one. I think actron?

 

Ditto on the speed bleeder...if you have more than 1 car you are going to bleed brakes on these work very nice.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...=54&item=150333251679&category=43989&viewitem=

 

I used a hand vacuum pump to bleed some brakes last week, worked like a charm.

Al in CT

 

I have used one as well, plumbed into the top of a M/C cap for the vehicle. I just used the pressure. I did not fill it with fluid. This requires one to stop and check the resevoir, just like any other method. But the pump sprayer pressure bleed system works and works real well. I tried using my mityvac once but it was a real PITA.

 

This unit is from Harbor Freight and works FANTASTIC! regular price is $29 it was in this weeks flier for $19.95.My neighbor does a lot of brake jobs to pick up xtra bucks so I borrowed it from him,it hooks up to your compressor.I had replaced all the wheel cylinders and flex hoses and front lines and changed to a dual master on my '54 Ford,I had everything hooked up and ready to go and realized I didn't bench bleed the new master.So I figured I would bleed it anyway and see what happens,well in less than 15 minutes it was a done deal! And NO pumping needed!

 

Same here... speed bleeders are the best!

 

Speed bleeders
and this problem
"proportioning valve that clicks over if it senses low pressure in a line"
The trick to this is you need to open the front as well as the rear duel circuit line to stop the valve clicking over.