Anyone used that clean looking ebay hub puller?

Make one yourself.

A little drilling, a few pieces from the hardware store, a piece of 2 x 2" x .250 wall square tubing, some 3/4 - 1" plate with flame cut or drilled holes and you're in business.

The puller pictured generates some ferocious pressures.
In fact, it's also set up to accept an 8 ton bottle jack, but the 1" bolt pictured generates more force.

I call it the "****o Puller."

****o pull anything....

 

Here's ****o at work.

 

All of ****o's parts.

Long bolts for the bottle jack, other bolts and coupling nuts to adapt to lugs on the drum as well as bolts to thread directly into ChryCo drum RH threads.

****o work with ChryCo LH lug bolts too.
Although ****o wonder why ChryCo use LH threads.
****o figures ChryCo engineers did LH thread stuff on Monday after fun weekend....

 

****o's best friend.
****o like kitty.
Kitty bite ****o.
Lady of house call Kitty Sweeky.
****o call kitty toothless.
****o and kitty get along good now.

 

****o is not split and pulls directly on the hub via the five bolts that replace the ChryCo lug bolts.

Do your lug nuts go directly into the hub flange?
Seems like they should.
If you are pulling directly on the brake drum it looks like some damage could occur due to the wide wheel lug pattern if the lugs are not supported by the hub flange.

Can you make the hole larger than the puller shown on Ebay and pull directly on the hub via bolts?

Looks to me like the pulling is accomplished by alternately cranking down on the two outer bolts and the hub gets pulled by the hold down bolts as well as the groove.

I note the Ebay comment that the puller will not fit the groove-less hubs.
That leads me to believe the groove-less hubs are the same as the grooved ones and the puller's hub bolts are what do the pulling on those.

 

Some thoughts: It is possible to bend hubs (and even flex the ***embly enough to crack the drum!), but that should only be a problem on a very few cases; perhaps the occasional rusted-to-hell field find and just maybe the hub that was tightened by ****o's friend, Drunken Lower Primate withabigdamnwrechandsixfeetofpipe. I've only ruined one, a Model A (flimsier than V8) that had been in a friends backyard for thirty years. The axle end MUST be protected on a hard pull, at least with reversed stock nut, better yet a cap. It can be ruined by the pressure in a rough case.
There is another design that might be home-makeable, one that many garages preferred to the others, that could easily be adapted to ****o's pulling mechanism:
On this thing, the hook was a flat forging shaped about like a football with a bite out of one side. The semicircular bite slipped into the groove on the hub, and two holes or lug studs (varied between tool makers) allowed ready hookup to a two arm puller like ****o.
You won't have a forging, and starting a forging operation in the ba*****t would likely awaken the baby anyhow, so this could be handled by making a plate of thickness chosen to fit the groove, and then back it with a plate made out of 1/2" plate for stiffening. The backer would look just like the front plate except the notch would be a tad bigger to clear the area below the groove. If I understand your plan for a puller based on a wheel center, I don't think it will work unless the hubs were inadequately tightened to begin with. The forces involved in removing a large taper set with 160 foot pounds on the nut are huge. Go to the s****yard and get some chunks of cut off stock to build something more ****o-like.

 

I forgot to add that the application of heat on the hub once things are loaded up makes all the difference in the world.

Be prepared for the loud bang when the hub lets go and watch out for all the spiders adandoning ship....

 

Ive ruined several Ford rear axles trying to pull drums even with a 3 leg cast iron original puller tool and heat.
Seems that the old racers scoured up the axle surface and forced the drum on in order to keep them from falling off when an axle breaks. I still havent got those off, got pissed and tossed the complete rears in the iron pile.

Also make sure the drums arent secured with the aftermarket safety thingy (forget the proper term) that is attached to the backing plate bolts.

 

Grim.If you pull from the studs and don't support the drum, you will bend it and you can throw it away.If you make a puller have it be a split one that pulls on the nose of the hub.The rear in the picture is not a banjo--tv

 

I used the split one on ebay for banjo rearends and had no problems. It was a field car too. Don't know how long they had been on there.

 

[ QUOTE ]
****o's best friend.
****o like kitty.
Kitty bite ****o.
Lady of house call Kitty Sweeky.
****o call kitty toothless.
****o and kitty get along good now.

[/ QUOTE ]
I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one with a brain-dead cat....

 

I got one of them pullers as seen in the mopar service manuals. Works good, is not limited to fords, and is cheaper. Look on egay for "hub puller".

I call my puller Leroy. Leroy gets along great with my cat Thor. They are a team. Dave

 

Bruce, that thing you're talking about is a bearing puller that fits behind a bearing up against a backing.

I usually use the Ford tool, the giant three leged puller. To protect the axle end, I've developed a technique. I use a short length of pipe that slips around the axle end. I put a large lead shot inside the pipe against the axle end, and stick the puller against the lead shot. The lead gets bent out of shape, but the axle is protected.

I also recently bought a huge ball joint puller with two fixed arms. Amazingly the teeth of the arms fits in the grooves of the hub. I may try using it instead of the three leg puller.

 

I got a e-bay one it works great

 

No, not a bearing splitter. One of those might work if you had a really big one. This was a special plate for late 29-48 Fords, made by Plomb-Proto, Snap On, and several others as part of their versions of the three-legged puller set for garages. All I have seen were made to use the puller in its two legged configuration. They came with a set that included the equivalent of the legged puller shown above.
Ford itself sold two patterns of puller over the years, both working from the groove. The cheap one, sold through the parts catalog, looked like a teacup with a bolt through the bottom and one side cut away. It slid sideways over the hub so its rim engaged the groove, and came with an adapter ring that also enabled it to fit the early A drums. The serious one was the KRW model used in Ford sevice departments, made as a stout barrel split right through the middle vertically. The two halves were placed over the hub, engaging the hub groove, and of course there was a piece in the top of the barrel holding a very large puller screw. The two halves were held together by an outer sleeve. The KRW is available in repro from the Ford parts places, and there is a close equivalent of the simpler one available from Brattons.
Snap On had a killer one I'd love to find. It had two arms with a ridge that locked into the groove like the puller now sold for power steering pulleys. A m***ive threaded collar then held the arms in place.
Ford hub pullers are like flathead valve tools--the jobs a real bear no matter what tool you have, and it's nice to have options.