Anyone using a Saginaw 4-speed -3.50 low?

I needed a ****** for my new '57 Chevy 150 business coupe with a real-deal 283 Fulie. PO installed a close-ratio Muncie (2.20-low), but its not as fun as it should be with 255/60-15 meats and a 3.36 Posi. Take-offs are a real PITA with this set up, just geared too tall.

My greybeard neighbor had what we both thought was a Vega Sag. with a 3.11 low. I have one behind a 235 in my other '7, really works well with nice spacing between the gears and a taller 3.08 diff.

Offered him a C-note and took it home to check the grooves cut around the input shaft. Learned on-line last night it has three grooves - a 3.50 low, much wider spacing between the gears. 2nd is 2.47, 3rd is 1.65. I haven't spun it in low gear to verify, but me thinks I bought a turd.<label for="rb_iconid_8"></label>

Anyone using this trans? Tell me about your set-up and how it works for you - car, diff ratio, tire size. What was the application for this box? I HATE to waste my time with it, without a little feedback that this box is better than I think, worth trying behind the Fulie. At least I have the Hurst shifter I can borrow off the six car...

I lost a link I had for figuring speed and RPM's by punching in gear ratio, tire size and trans ratios. Can the troops here hook me up with the link they use or at least the formula to work this out on paper?

Also, what's a close-ratio (2.20) Muncie worth these days? It shifts well, but a tad noisy shifting into 2nd.

Mucho Thanks for your feedback, Tim

 

That gear is only about ten percent lower than the 3.35 gear used in most of those T5 transmissions Ford put out in V8 Mustangs thru the 80s and early 90s. Your buy might not be optimal, but you are looking for a compromise in the first place. The substantially lower first gear will make the transmission not as strong as one with less gear, but maybe (probably, even) not enough to be a problem. I'd say it's probably worth a try.

 

If I baby it in low, it might work out behind the Fulie, but the 235 might have too much torque to risk it there. I also drive the six harder. - Tim

 

I wouldn't use that Sag. I'm not saying Sags are bad. I have 2 of them. A 1 ring and a 2 ring or 2:54 and 3:11 first. I would change the gears out back. Those 283's like to be up in the RPM's and with that Muncie being a close ratio that'll keep power band tightly together. But on the other hand it seems by your current gears your trying to be highway friendly So it's a toss up. Baby the the 3 ring Sag so you can cruz, or get all you can out of that 283 and scream down the highway.

 

I had one in my 60 Falcon g***er, behind a fairly stock 300hp 350cu. The 3 ring sag didn't fair well it is currently in my s**** pile, Grenaded. It worked good for a few weeks, until I launched it from a dead stop at about 4500 rpm with 3:08 rear gear and 295/50/15 tires KABOOM!!! Now it will become chinese steel, soon. If you don't hammer on it and drive normal it should last awhile. Just don't drop the clutch with any kind of rpm, just sayin...

 

it will make it easier to drive lower first gear is nice at stop signs I used both in a 64 Impala with a 327 i hated the 2.20 muncie had to slip the clutch a lot and the low gear sag doesn't like hooking up hard ( slicks ) will open the case. and your highway rpm won't change

 

I have a 3.50 low saggie in my model A with high way gears and 30" tires. i like the low gear to get it rolling, but it has a big space between 3rd and 4th. I've never dumped the clutch or banged the gears either. with the price of gas, and the need for long hauls i need the the tall gears in the rear

 

I had a 56 chevy with a 3.50 saginaw and 3.08 rear . it was just a bit too much 1st gear but its not like you couldnt live with it, probably could have used a 3.11 box. i have a 3.11 box in my model A with 3.00 rear and it works perfect, lots of low end but cruises at 70 without any work

 

GOOD NEWS!!! with better shop light, it was a 2-ring Sag. Spin test does check OK to be a 3.11 low. I'm a happy boy now! Just need to check the gears and syncros, reseal with new seals and gaskets. Thanks to all for the feedback!

Take Care, Tim