Anyone with a WC T-5 behind a SBC?

Do any of you fellas have a good pic of your modified crossmember? I'm looking for ideas to build mine. later shawn

 

I'm running a T5 behind my 48 Ford Flathead. I put a 9in ford w/3;50 gears @ 70mph I'm taching about 1700. I love it. I got rid of the banjo springs and went to leaf springs, what a difference.

 

This discussion has to get serious, folks. There is a difference between the S-10 and Mustang T5s that has much to do with the adapters. Is that not a concern?

 

So what is required to run a S10 T5 behind a SBC?

I know you need the 11" Astro clutch setup, a 168 tooth flywheel to fit the large clutch, the special bushing for the crank, and resulting starter, but what else?

Does the input shaft and retainer need modding?

 

Really nothing, it's the most straightforward swap possible. Even easier for tight clearance applications if you use a hydraulic TO bearing.

You can run a small flywheel if you want to stay away from the big clutch, you do not HAVE to run the big Astro clutch.

Lakewood and others make nice blowproof bellhousings for Muncie/T10 that works great as long as you're using an S10 box....the Camaro box is laid over at an angle and requires either the tilted pattern on the bellhousing, or a custom tranny mount if you run it straight up.

It should also be noted that when used in a hotrod with tall rear tires, the S10 gear ratios pretty much suck ass. We typically buy T-5s two at a time, one WC from a Camaro, and an S10, then rebuild using the WC guts in the S10 box.

Your results may vary.

 

I'v got a t-5 from an S-10 in my 28 roadster behind a 327 puts out about 325 H.P. and I hammer the shit out of it, it'll do the widest burn-outs you ever saw and cruise down the highway 75 mph at about 1800 -1900 rpm. I also moved the clutch fork to the right side and added a hyd. slave cylinder and dual hyd. master cylinder to power the brakes and the hydraulic clutch. It really cleans up the left side for brakes and exhaust. The S-10 tailshaft sets the shifter in the right spot. Yea guess you could say I would highly recommend one. Gary ( The Roadburners )

 

Here's pics of my new mount for a 350/T-5 combo- just finished it this past weekend- S10 tailshaft on a Camaro box (it's actually halves of two different HAMBer transmissions- thirtcoup's trans w/a tailhousing from ray.)

The mount isn't anything fancy (took me long enough, but that has more to do with me, than the difficulty), but thought it might help you picture one way to put it together. Right now, I'm planning on using an external slave cylinder, but it's awful close to my exhaust and my steering, so I may research the hydraulic throwout bearing.

1x3" 1/8" steel tubing with brackets and gussets cut from 1/8" plate, TIG welded:

 

Just a quick question about gearing........Everyone seems to rave about the 'driveability' of their cars(especially roadsters) after fitting a T5 behind their flatty etc. Obviously their a good unit, but my curiosity is which gear set is the preffered?

Most roadsters would probalby run a 7.50R16 rear tyre, a 3.55 diff center(this often varies a little though), so would the preffered box ratio's be....
1st = 3.35
2nd = 1.99
3rd = 1.33
4th = 1.00
5th = 0.68

Would this gearset complement the torque and power curves of a mild flatty?

Cheers,

Drewfus

 

The flat power curve of the flatty lends itself to most reasonable gears sets. There are a few primary T5 gearsets:

S10
1st-4.03 2nd-2.37 3rd-1.49 4th-1.00 5th-0.86
1st-3.76 2nd-2.18 3rd-1.41 4th-1.00 5th-0.72

V8 Mustang
1st-3.35 2nd-1.93 3rd-1.23 4th-1.00 5th-0.68
1st-3.35 2nd-1.94 3rd-1.34 4th-1.00 5th-0.62
1st-3.35 2nd-1.99 3rd-1.33 4th-1.00 5th-0.68
1st-2.95 2nd-1.94 3rd-1.34 4th-1.00 5th-0.72

V8 Camaro/Firebird
1st-2.95 2nd-1.94 3rd-1.34 4th-1.00 5th-0.73

There are at least three other gearsets for the T5, maybe more, but they're in less suitable donors.

Personally, the 4.03 S10 gearset seems a bit too low to me. Might be OK in a heavier car with higher overall gearing, but probably "buzzy" in a light car with low gearing - still infinitely better than the original 3spd no doubt...

The Camaro is a closer ratio between 1st & 2nd than most of the Ford boxes (it should be noted that the Mustang 2.95 is an early NWC tranny). However, the Mustang box seems to be more plentiful/available & can be had with the highest overdrive, in a light car, the bigger drop between 1st & 2nd (compared to the Camaro box) is probably not too noticable.

Any of the above gearsets will be good when paired with most popular combos of otherwise original Early Ford components. 16" wheels, 3.78/4.11 rears, etc.

Just one man's opinion...

 

Thanks F/Ernie......top stuff.

Tech-o-matic?

Cheers,

Drewfus

 

Hi! Very good info here! I bought "my first T-5" yesterday. It's from 83 trans am scca race car with bell and will end up into my Model A with SBC back in Finland after a year!

Thanks, Mika

 

For the time being, I decided to fit the T5 to the flathead in my F-1 and gain some more service from the old Henry motor. It all seemed so easy, until we actually started mixing and matching hardware.

The vast bulk of info available has to do with the use of the S-10 T5, as do the readily available adapter pieces. I have a Mustang WC T5 from a '93 Cobra which is the strongest of the regular WC boxes and I wasn't ready to give up its strength nor, more important, its much-more-desireable gear ratios.

We ended up combining a MAC'S S-10 adapter and a Tardel WC adapter used for the '49-'51 Ford passenger car bellhousing and have a satisfactory install with good clutch action in release and engagement. Just need to go back in tomorrow and relieve the inside of the MAC'S adapter for clearance of the counterweights on the 10-inch Long clutch.

I swapped out the Ford tailshaft housing/shifter assembly for one from an S-10 which places the shifter about 8 inches forward of the Mustang shifter position, and 7 inches aft of the original F-1 shifter -- all within the removeable transmission tunnel panel, eliminating need to cut the cab floor.

I'm hoping to drive the F-1 home from Sacto tomorrow, cruising at 70 mph at 2100 rpm! Wish me luck.

Mike

 

I am considering using a mustang T-5 behind a 302 Ford in a '50 shoebox.

From what I have read it looks like the mustang transmission will probably have better ratios than the S-10 for my application.

In order to move the shifter forward will the S-10 tail shaft housing fit the mustang T-5? Just for information will the S-10 T-5 bolt to the mustang bell housing?
Thanks -- Chuck

 

Mike,
did you do the swap already???
Pics please !!!!
Crossmebmber modification pics!!

Thanks
Michael

 

There was no practical way to save the origianl transmission-mount crossmember, other than moving it rearward, which would have made a shamble of the brake and clutch pedal location. We cut the center out of the crossmember and I'll probably add a bottom bridge to it soon. The new transmission mount-crossmember is made from a 2 x 3 inch steel channel bowed downward 4 inches from center to ends, and it's bolted to the lower rail of the frame. When Fuller first described it to me I didn't care for the idea, thinking it would look a bit agricultural, but in practice it is rather neat looking and it's far stronger and stiffer as a frame member than a more-familiar bent-pipe crossmember would be. I'll try to get you a picture this week.

When I first started the motor with the T5 in place the knobs on the 10-inch Long-style clutch counterweights hit the inside of the MAC'S adapter which appeared to have been machined about 1/4 to 3/8 inch out of registration. A die grinder corrected the situation and all the pieces are happy with one another.





BTW, all the hard work to adapt the Mustang WC T5 was worth it. The old flathead isn't even breaking a sweat at 70 mph in 5th gear with the original 3.73 axle!

Mike

 

The Mustang ratios are more favorable to a strong V8 than many of the S-10 T5s. The S-10 tailshaft housing and shifter is a direct bolt on. You will have to relocate the speeedometer drive gear on the tailshaft, and make certain you have a Mustang T5 and an S-10 tailshaft housing with mechanical speedometer drive, not electronic.

Mike

 

Thanks Mike.

Pics would be great !!!!
Thanks
Michael

 

Thanks Mike - Flat Ernie emailed me some info also.
One more question - can the electronic speedometer sender be used with the aftermarket electronic speedometers? -- Chuck

 

I am still weighing out all the options for my SBC conversion. It adds up in a hurry. I am afraid the old favorite th-350 may win out since it already lives in the truck.

 

I haven't a clue, Chuck. The piece on the tailshaft for the electronic speedo is a steel "gear" that appears to be pressed onto or bonded to the shaft. It could be that there are different "gears" to accommodate different axle ratios, just as there are different plastic gears for the mechanical speedo drive. Or, maybe there's only one "gear" for the electronic speedo and the rear axle ratio is corrected in the car's computer.

Mike

 

From what I have read some of the electronic aftermarket speedometers have a calibration button on them that you push at the start and at the end of a measured mile and the calibration is complete. That method "corrects" the Odometer and and calibrates the speedometer for accuracy. I do know that electronic senders that replace the mechanical speedometer connection at the transmission are available. -- Chuck

 

Here's another area I know virtually nothing about. If I were a guessing person, I'd guess it could - I'm sure it's probably just a pulse generator of some sort. I think it would depend on where the logic is (sender or speedo). Might be worth a call to one of the big-name instrument shops.

 

bttt for Mike to post his pics of the crossmember
Michael

 

Bttt