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Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Faded Love Garage, Dec 9, 2003.

  1. Faded Love Garage
    Joined: Mar 30, 2003
    Posts: 968

    Faded Love Garage
    Member
    from Spring, TX

    make an adapter to mate a 350 trans to a 265 motor? Can this be done?
     
  2. Fat Hack
    Joined: Nov 30, 2002
    Posts: 7,709

    Fat Hack
    Member
    from Detroit

    Is that a trick question??? [​IMG]

     
  3. Faded Love Garage
    Joined: Mar 30, 2003
    Posts: 968

    Faded Love Garage
    Member
    from Spring, TX

  4. long island vic
    Joined: Feb 26, 2002
    Posts: 2,193

    long island vic
    Member

    its a small block motor. its a chevy tranny. get the message? done deal!!!!!
     
  5. JamesG
    Joined: Nov 5, 2003
    Posts: 5,249

    JamesG
    Member

    Try welding them together..........
     
  6. briggs&strattonChev
    Joined: Feb 20, 2003
    Posts: 2,236

    briggs&strattonChev
    Member

    yeah they should bolt right up, correct me if im wrong though. Have you tried to bolt them together yet?
     
  7. titus
    Joined: Dec 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,194

    titus
    Member

    are we talking a very early 265, like it had a cast iron pg behind it?
     
  8. Faded Love Garage
    Joined: Mar 30, 2003
    Posts: 968

    Faded Love Garage
    Member
    from Spring, TX

    Yeah , it has the cast iron pg. The starter is on the trans. That is why I'm asking.With the 350 trans there is no place for the starter.
     
  9. SimonSez
    Joined: Jul 1, 2001
    Posts: 1,666

    SimonSez
    Member

  10. Max Gearhead
    Joined: Oct 16, 2002
    Posts: 7,853

    Max Gearhead
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    It's been a while but I seem to remember that the 265s had no starter mounting holes in the block and the starters bolted to the stick bellhousing and in the case of the PG to the adapter plate between the block and trans. The mounting pad is there on the block and can be drilled and tapped if you are very careful. Other than that problem the 350 Turbo bolts up.
    Max
     
  11. k9racer
    Joined: Jan 20, 2003
    Posts: 3,091

    k9racer
    Member

    You could have a problem moumting the starter? Maybe drill and tap the block for block mount type unit? I have never given this much thought. Every thing else will bolt up.You will need to change the front yolk on the drive shaft. At one time replacement indicators were avaiable to replace with proper patern. Good Luck I will try to find a 55 block to compare..
     
  12. briggs&strattonChev
    Joined: Feb 20, 2003
    Posts: 2,236

    briggs&strattonChev
    Member

    oh yeah, I didnt even think of the starter
     
  13. k9racer
    Joined: Jan 20, 2003
    Posts: 3,091

    k9racer
    Member

    by looking at the post times 3 of us came up with the starter thing at the same time, I am a slow typer..
     
  14. Faded Love Garage
    Joined: Mar 30, 2003
    Posts: 968

    Faded Love Garage
    Member
    from Spring, TX

    Thanks guys.I'll look into drilling and tapping the block. Maybe I'll just get a newer block. It's not like i'm trying to keep it original.
     
  15. briggs&strattonChev
    Joined: Feb 20, 2003
    Posts: 2,236

    briggs&strattonChev
    Member

    so theres a difference in 265 blocks? Was it just early 55 with the odd block or what?
     
  16. Faded Love Garage
    Joined: Mar 30, 2003
    Posts: 968

    Faded Love Garage
    Member
    from Spring, TX

    I think it was 55 and 56 with the wacky blocks.I'm no expert, but i'm lerning.
     
  17. I was thinking that there was very little casting there to mount the newer start to?I would sell it to a collector/restorer and go with a newer block.[get rid of the "rope" crank seals] too!
     
  18. i believe the outer bolt hole for the starter should all ready be in the block,just use the new starter as a guide to drill the inner one. you will have to use the 153 tooth starter,that's the one with straight across bolts,not staggered.
     
  19. [ QUOTE ]
    so theres a difference in 265 blocks? Was it just early 55 with the odd block or what?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    the very first 265's didn't even have a place for an oil filter
     
  20. Fat Hack
    Joined: Nov 30, 2002
    Posts: 7,709

    Fat Hack
    Member
    from Detroit

    If you don't have any money invested in rebuilding or modifying the original 265 block, I'd set it aside for a later project, or sell it to someone looking for a "period correct" small block and run with a 305, 350 or 400 engine.

    (They're the most cheap and plentiful small blocks these days...though a 283, 327, 307 or other newer small Chevy will work, too).

    You should be able to bag enough cash for your early 265 to pay for a running 305 or something to build upon, or just hose off and drop in.

    (Newer small blocks still had the front mount bolt holes up until the 80s anyway...if you're going to retain the stock mounts from your car. Side mount kits are available, though.)

     
  21. visor
    Joined: Aug 11, 2002
    Posts: 513

    visor
    Member Emeritus
    from Missouri

    Its not just the 55 265 that the starter bolted to
    the bellhousing or to the powerglide adapter ring,
    The early 283's were the same way.
    Get a hold of a powerglide adapter ring
    and bolt it all together.
    Better yet, go with a manual!
    -----------------------------------------------------------
    "OPOSSUM BENDERS"
    Central Missouri Chapter
     
  22. Faded Love Garage
    Joined: Mar 30, 2003
    Posts: 968

    Faded Love Garage
    Member
    from Spring, TX

    Yeah Fathack ,that is what I'm thinking. I'd like a little more power also. I think it'll end up getting a 350.Anyone need a 265? [​IMG]
     
  23. briggs&strattonChev
    Joined: Feb 20, 2003
    Posts: 2,236

    briggs&strattonChev
    Member

    [ QUOTE ]
    Anyone need a 265

    [/ QUOTE ]

    put it in the classifieds, I bet itll sell pretty quickly
     
  24. visor
    Joined: Aug 11, 2002
    Posts: 513

    visor
    Member Emeritus
    from Missouri

    Yeah I will take it.
    Depending on the condition,
    I may even trade ya a 350.
    ---------------------------------------------------------
    "OPOSSUM BENDERS"
    Central Missouri Chapter
     
  25. k9racer
    Joined: Jan 20, 2003
    Posts: 3,091

    k9racer
    Member

    no one has addressed the problem of the bell housing attached mounts. some fab will be nessary. If you only mount on stock at the front and make a mount under the trans that is a long flexable span.
     
  26. OutLaw
    Joined: Sep 1, 2001
    Posts: 693

    OutLaw
    Member

    Some of you guys a pretty quick with the smart ass answers. Maybe before you pop off at the mouth, you might want to ask why he wants to know if its going to work. Made you look like asshole because it was a real problem? For those with the correct info.. thanks for helping [​IMG]
     
  27. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 25,915

    Roothawg
    Member

    It's not hard to drill and tap one. The Fly is set up this way. We have an adapter we built that has countersunk screws. The starter bolts to this plate. I am at work but I can maybe post pics later.
     
  28. Faded Love Garage
    Joined: Mar 30, 2003
    Posts: 968

    Faded Love Garage
    Member
    from Spring, TX

    Pics would be great.

     
  29. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 25,915

    Roothawg
    Member

    It's been a while but the best I can remember.......

    we used an old starter......get a junk core and pull the guts out of it. Push the gear down against the starter ring and set your lash between the 2.

    Then you can clamp the starter housing to the block and center punch it. Drill and tap. It's not that hard. Just don't let it intimidate you. Take your time and step drill it.

    I am assuming that the motor is out of the car?
     
  30. Faded Love Garage
    Joined: Mar 30, 2003
    Posts: 968

    Faded Love Garage
    Member
    from Spring, TX

    The motor is not out , but will be pretty soon.
     

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