yeah they should bolt right up, correct me if im wrong though. Have you tried to bolt them together yet?
Yeah , it has the cast iron pg. The starter is on the trans. That is why I'm asking.With the 350 trans there is no place for the starter.
The trans will bolt up, but the starter is the problem. 265's don't have the part of the block that the starter bolts to because they originally bolt to the bellhousing. Try some 55-57 suppliers for an adaptor to allow you to use your original starter, like this one. http://www.classicchevy.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=19%2D68&dept%5Fid=1313&mscssid=HLGFC24Q1C2L8P5SQM9FJQD3SCHJ9XP7
It's been a while but I seem to remember that the 265s had no starter mounting holes in the block and the starters bolted to the stick bellhousing and in the case of the PG to the adapter plate between the block and trans. The mounting pad is there on the block and can be drilled and tapped if you are very careful. Other than that problem the 350 Turbo bolts up. Max
You could have a problem moumting the starter? Maybe drill and tap the block for block mount type unit? I have never given this much thought. Every thing else will bolt up.You will need to change the front yolk on the drive shaft. At one time replacement indicators were avaiable to replace with proper patern. Good Luck I will try to find a 55 block to compare..
by looking at the post times 3 of us came up with the starter thing at the same time, I am a slow typer..
Thanks guys.I'll look into drilling and tapping the block. Maybe I'll just get a newer block. It's not like i'm trying to keep it original.
I was thinking that there was very little casting there to mount the newer start to?I would sell it to a collector/restorer and go with a newer block.[get rid of the "rope" crank seals] too!
i believe the outer bolt hole for the starter should all ready be in the block,just use the new starter as a guide to drill the inner one. you will have to use the 153 tooth starter,that's the one with straight across bolts,not staggered.
[ QUOTE ] so theres a difference in 265 blocks? Was it just early 55 with the odd block or what? [/ QUOTE ] the very first 265's didn't even have a place for an oil filter
If you don't have any money invested in rebuilding or modifying the original 265 block, I'd set it aside for a later project, or sell it to someone looking for a "period correct" small block and run with a 305, 350 or 400 engine. (They're the most cheap and plentiful small blocks these days...though a 283, 327, 307 or other newer small Chevy will work, too). You should be able to bag enough cash for your early 265 to pay for a running 305 or something to build upon, or just hose off and drop in. (Newer small blocks still had the front mount bolt holes up until the 80s anyway...if you're going to retain the stock mounts from your car. Side mount kits are available, though.)
Its not just the 55 265 that the starter bolted to the bellhousing or to the powerglide adapter ring, The early 283's were the same way. Get a hold of a powerglide adapter ring and bolt it all together. Better yet, go with a manual! ----------------------------------------------------------- "OPOSSUM BENDERS" Central Missouri Chapter
Yeah Fathack ,that is what I'm thinking. I'd like a little more power also. I think it'll end up getting a 350.Anyone need a 265?
Yeah I will take it. Depending on the condition, I may even trade ya a 350. --------------------------------------------------------- "OPOSSUM BENDERS" Central Missouri Chapter
no one has addressed the problem of the bell housing attached mounts. some fab will be nessary. If you only mount on stock at the front and make a mount under the trans that is a long flexable span.
Some of you guys a pretty quick with the smart ass answers. Maybe before you pop off at the mouth, you might want to ask why he wants to know if its going to work. Made you look like asshole because it was a real problem? For those with the correct info.. thanks for helping
It's not hard to drill and tap one. The Fly is set up this way. We have an adapter we built that has countersunk screws. The starter bolts to this plate. I am at work but I can maybe post pics later.
It's been a while but the best I can remember....... we used an old starter......get a junk core and pull the guts out of it. Push the gear down against the starter ring and set your lash between the 2. Then you can clamp the starter housing to the block and center punch it. Drill and tap. It's not that hard. Just don't let it intimidate you. Take your time and step drill it. I am assuming that the motor is out of the car?