Technical AOD Transmission Help

Hi All, new to the forum excited to contribute where I can! I could use some help! I have a 1957 F100 I have rebuilt. I recently had a shop put in an AOD (replacing the C4) and since things are not right. With the TV cable linkage removed from the ****** (I do understand how it is setup) the warm neutral psi is 30-35. I may be misunderstanding but I would expect without the block it should be at 5psi give or take.. just cant figure it out.. once warm it seems to shift ok, but will not shift well or at all cold.. Feedback? Thanks so much. Rich

 

@Rich Richardson

I am certainly no authority on those transmissions, but those who are absolutely say they will not operate correctly without the TV cable rigged for proper throttle linkage geometry. “They” say without the TV trans destruction soon occurs.

Ray

 

Cable disconnected from the trans??? I don't get that. Are you using a Lokar TV cable? No linkage geometry needed. I have two AOD's set up with the Lokar stuff. Engine warm, idle in neutral, adjust cable to tight with the block in place to get 30-35 psi then drops to 0 when block removed. On one I had to add a spring to pull the TV arm back enough to get to 0. Both work great. Have you checked to see if fluid is full?

 

Thanks maybe that is it (need a spring to pull the linkage further back to get to zero). Fluid level is good.

 

What do you mean by it doesn’t shift right? TV adjustment shouldn’t really change how it shifts hot or cold. Sticky valve in valve body or governor could possibly cause that.


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Misadjusted TV cables on AOD's will cause the trans to shift incorrectly, I've even had them float in and out of OD 90's Ford cars when they fell off the throttle body.

 

Yes it was my understanding that the TV cable adjustment was critical to pressure adjustment for correct shifting.. but in these I am new to this!

 

don't drive it w/o the cable installed. Someone, B&M I believe, makes a kit that provides the proper pressure w/o the cable being adjusted to the gnats ***, but still need the cable.

 

No I wasnt going to drive without cable just trying to figure out how to meet the install specs for pressures

 

Welcome. I can't give you any info on this.

 

By the way Flathead Dave.. i love your tag lines below.. lol.. “pushed down the stairs”..

 

constant pressure valve body, i think.

 

George, you think that is the issue.. the constant pressure valve body is bad/not working?

 

The OEM set up doesn't use them, that's why the adjustment is so critical. If you install the B&M set up the adjustment doesn't need to be so precise. Off hand i don't know if the adjustment is the problem you have @ the moment.

 

I have an AOD as well, using the Lokar cable. Shifts great, you can adjust it to have firmer or softer shifts at the carb linkage (firmer is safer than softer), but you definitely need a TV cable.

Once it's hooked up make sure it goes back far enough when you release the throttle (you could install a spring). Also make sure the cable isn't binding.

I really recommend the Lokar cable, it comes with a gauge to adjust the pressure with great instructions, and they correct the geometry at the transmission instead of the engine.

Also if a shop put it in, they didn't test it?!

 

Yea, they put it in, i was moving and said good to go.. and it did not shift ... they told me to adjust it. But following the steps I never get to 5psi in Neutral.. even with the cable at the ****** off. So my su****ion is something else is up? Thoughts? I think this is a lokar cable as well.. but will check the do***entation.. I just figured if i was starting over that without any cable influence in Neutral and warm it would start at 5psi.. is that bad logic?

 

With the tv cable disconnected at the carb, does the tv cable snap back when you pull the cable by hand? They have an internal spring that should always return on is own. Also, when I last at mine on a slightly ot truck, I used a pressure gauge on it to set pressure. If I recall, I just used a 100 psi mechanical oil pressure gauge. Plenty of videos like this one shows how it's done. Best of luck.

 

As for stock, yes the cable has to pull the valve back, for a modified valve body I can't answer the builder should be able to though.

 

Nice 57 by the way!

 

Thanks Jeff on the truck and the advice. With the cable disconnected.. the ***embly on the ****** snaps back.. the odd part is completely disconnected i start at 30 psi.. which by the calibration method notes that should be the pressure with the .400 gauge attached.. and then falls back to 5psi.. so my thought was to start completely disconnected and see where the pressure started.. cold its 40, then drops to 30 warm.. but that is without any throttle... make sense? Or am i not thinking about this right?

 

Here is a picture of the setup at the ******... if it helps.. thanks for the engagement everyone!

 

I have adjusted hundreds of those over the years. Never used a gauge. Take the slack out of the cable or leave 1/32 of slack and it should be good. If it doesn’t upshift it’s either too tight or something else is wrong.


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Thanks i will give that a try this week! Rich

 

So you moved and can’t take it back to the ****** guy, that right? Obviously you already have a gauge, I would use it. Mine helps me. How many miles have you driven it.

 

only to the corner gas station, even though it has pressure i don’t want to ruin the engine.. the guy who did the job said it would be fine but at this point his advice after having it for almost 3 months does not carry much weight with me.. I have the gauge attached.. and long enough to read from pretty much any position in the truck. I was just stumped by the pressure readings being higher than the instructions on the TV cable noted.. and that it seems when cold it would not shift but after warming up and dropping about 10psi it start shifting fairly normally..

 

you won't ruin the engine, it's the ******. Don't drive till it's sorted out. Have you googled the Fordbarn forum?

 

Sorry meant the ******.. I have not but will look into that! Thx

 

There are different valve body gaskets for some of those AOD’s. Do you know what year AOD it is? Before 1989 they had a 3/4 ac***ulator. After 89 they did away with it. If the transmission has the 89 and up gaskets in it it has a bleed port built into the gasket for the throttle pressure valve. Those kits came with three different throttle pressure valve springs. It’s hard to say what your guy may have put in it. I’ve done hundreds of those transmissions over the years and rarely if ever had a problem. Message me if you want and I’ll send you a phone number. We can chat.


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