April Bang-er thread 2011 OOOGGGAAA BOOOGAAA

After I get my engine built I'll have alot of parts left over... IF anyone is interested.

 

Got her running today. Had a great time running up and down our country road until the fuel pump quit. Even towing her home, she still looked good!

 

Can anyone tell me the dimensions of this clutch disc - in particular - the depth of the splined section?

I need to get one made to suit the 26 splin Camaro/S10 T5 I have here.

I have the raw materials either here or coming, including a T5 adapter made by Banger-expert CDO, and a 2 port Chev Head waiting for a Jern kit.

 

Riley Two Port engine in the 1930 CCPU is now running and this is my first pressureixed engine. My question is how do I keep the oil under the valve covers. The rubber gaskets that came with the head do a half assed job but the oil still seeps out and runs into the spark plug areas. I have seen some four port engines with a cork material under the valve covers. Were these home made from a thick cork or ? Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.

Dave

 

I just read the thread on the Chevy head conversion. Boy, seems no one likes the idea. That makes me think I should look into it for my T project. Hope you post your progress stovebolt.

Ron

 

I was talking with Art Moore the other day and he was telling me how he fixed a broken crank flange on Olive's engine.

He said that he turned down the end of the crank , made a new flange that pressed onto the end and welded it. much like the method in your last two pictures.


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I'm certainly no expert. Many on here know far more then me.


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Ok I'm the expert

In my case I'm an Ex-spert: Ex is a has-been, and a spert is a drip under pressure!!!

 

Both are stuck with cranks still in them one is standard bore the other if I recall was .60 over. No cracks I have found but all I have done is take the heads off and pans to clean them out with gas and try to free them up. I Have 3 runners at the moment so I saw no urgency to mess with them anymore then simple cleaning. One looks like it was a recently rebuilt engine, the standard bore sat for a long time.-Weeks

 

Did one for my tee roadster goes real well and it was a great experience working it out sorry I cant load pics here no good with damm computors

 

I read a post on another form where he used the Chevy head on a '29 sedan. He had nothing but good things to say about it. He said it was done a couple years ago for around $1500. As an ORF (ol' retired fart) that's a price tag I can embrace. Gonna do some reserch and maybe some shopping today.

Ron

 

I don't think anybody said anything bad about the Chevy head on the Ford block. Only that it was still a 1928 head and there were much better aftermarket heads out there. Speaking of old heads here are some pictures of the Dodge Bros. with the shortened front cover to allow a dampener and the belly band on the pan that is the new motor mount location. Also a Morton & Brett car with Dodge Bros. power. I already posted the engine pictures on the Chevy 4 thread.

 

I fixed a Talbot crank that the flange had wrung off that way, about 25 years ago. Welded it with 7018, rough turned it and had it ground. Owner ran the hell out of the car. Wonder where it is now?

Herb

 

Made a few calls. Found a head, the 216 pushrods and a Jern kit for $900. Question, it's a 7.1 adaptor. Is that too much for babbits?

Ron

 

It' not a case of hi-compression versus babbitt, but how good a job and what alloy babbitt and adequate oil pressure. George Riley and other pioneers ran babbitt bearings in their race engines that saw 3-5 races a week but they also ran up to 100 psi. In the late '30's they were running up to 14:1 with alcohol fuel. They also ran long duration cams which lower the effective compression. With 7:1 you could get by with a stock "B" cam and run pump gas. Pat

 

Is the head an original Riley? I made thicker cork gaskets for mine, I made a pattern out of 1/8" Aluminum to trace onto the thicker cork. I asked if it was an original because the originals need to be drilled as they have no drains for the additional volume of oil from the pressurized system. The Yapp heads have drains. You might try a small bead of Permatex #2 on the head or clear silicone, Hylomar seems to have disappeared.

 

Russ Tee needed some help with his pictures of his '27 with a chevy head, Pat

 

Riley gaskets.... Specialty Ford Parts in Rosemead, CA makes 4-port rocker cover gaskets, not sure about 2-port. 626-288-2121 You might try restricting the flow of oil to the rockers, and be sure there is adequate draining. The originals did not have pressure there, just a reservoir of oil and a felt pad that you kept oiled, worked fine!

 

Thanks Pat. The current engine is a '29 that seems to be very sound. I am new to this banger power but have a T roadster in the shop that i want to install the A motor in. I also have a nice long block from a '31 AA. That's probably where the Chevy head will end up after a rebuild. Hope you don't mind me picking your brain for info.

Ron

 

When I was a teenager we were upset with older people because they wouldn't give us any help or suggestions. Many years later it was explained to me that our questions were beyond their experience and they couldn't answer them. Small compensation. Anyway I'll answer to the best of my ability. in our youthful exuberance we trashed a lot of stuff to get our experience. Pat

 

Now THAT is a nice lookin' T motor! I want to do something similar on my new T engine that is in the works for my '26 roadster.

 

BHT8BALL, great pictures of the T motor. Can you clue me in on the air filters? What are they and how do they preform. Very nice motor!

 

Saxon the air filters are homemade turned from some recovered alloy stock foam filter and expanded mesh the work fine . head 28 chev my own conversion great fun to do valve cover stainless with beads rolled in . model a crank drilled and shortened full pressure oil via VW pump on back of the cam modern electronic dizzy in Boch front cover 12 volts no magnetshomemade manifolds was one hell of a lot of fun and aint that what its all about we not here to build belly button motors

 

Woo hoo.. The machine shop said that they should have my motor ready by the end of the week!! then I get to put it together........ :/

 

BHT8BALL thanks for posting pics of my tee motor looking forward to getting some of your well machined parts for the B motor in my RP

 

Thanks RussTee.

Belly button it is not!

 

All the amazing things you've done with that motor and I ask about the air cleaner

 

Dose any one know what this manifold would fit? For reference the carburetor flange bore is 1 7/8's". The name on it is Ellis

 

I have a Yapp Rielly two port head. They cam with a "U" shaped piece of gasket material. I could not make it work. It was like vinyl or plastic material. I cut a gasket out of cork. Yapp recommends a low flow of oil the the rocker arms. He supplies a ferrel to stick inside of the fitting to reduce the oil flow from the stock oil pump.

 

I was thinking the same thing
but they are real nice air cleaners

Nice look-in engine RussTee...