April Bang-er thread 2011 OOOGGGAAA BOOOGAAA

You guys seem to know your 4 bangers...
Can you tell me anything about this engine?



How about the magneto that I'm putting on my motor?

 

I know that Westinghouse built LeRoi engines. A lot of bangers that were 4 inch by 4 1/2. Maybe yours. I think Roline engines came off the same assembly line.

 

LeRoi was an American Air compressor manufacturer. The mag on it looks like an American Bosch DU 4.

The mag in the last picture looks like an International Harvester Co.

Looks like a good fit for automotive use. looks like it has a timing advance lever. It is probably meant to run at Crank speed. There looks to be a gear reduction under the distributor cap.



.

 

Pat, did you reheat treat the crank after welding? Assuming you T.I.G. welded the heat affected zone is excess.

Jerry

 

Jerry, I made a 1" thick x 6" dia. steel heat sink that I bolted to the flywheel flange and used a Lincoln P225 wire welder with ER70S-6 .035 wire and cooled the weld area in between passes and did not re heat treat the crank. Using the MIG process quenches the weld immediately and when you machine it it's obvious that it's hard. Everything we ( collectively speaking ) do to these engines is based on the least worst scenario. I talked to Art Moore shortly after Olives crank broke and if I remember right he said it was an NOS "C" crank and broke after about 250 miles. Lee Hammock's 2cam McDowell head came from a car that was built in 1935 to run Pikes Peak and they used to put in a new crank for every major race. For them it was cheap insurance, as there was always someone that wanted to buy the one they took out. kinda long winded answer but it shows that it's always been a problem. Pat

 

LeRoi built 1,2 and 4 cylinder stationary engines. i have a single cylinder of a cement mixer.

 

I have always felt that the register cut in the rear flange face was the reason that the flange was weak. I was going to have that welded on the next crank I did. I'm glad to see that someone else has the same thoughts.

Thanks for showing use all of your work Pat.

.

 

I forgot one of the maybe crucial steps in the repair welding and that is I rough machine the seal area .060 over the finish dia. and then use my air hammer with a rounded chisel bit to peen the fillets and then the seal surface. After that I lathe the surface to .020 for finish grinding. I've spent way too much time trying to manually polish the turned surface good enough for the seal to survive. I'd rather have a cold one and watch a sunset. Pat

 

I guess I'll dumb the thread down, a bit. This Saturday, I picked up some parts from a pretty vast Model A parts collection of a man whom died last year.

I saw this sitting on a shelf beneath some stock intakes and other odd-and-ends and added it to all the other stuff I picked up. I'm not planning on using it, but for $20 I felt like it'd be a cool piece on my desk for a while. It's too bad there wasn't a head to match... not that I saw around, anyway. Next time I go down to pick up a few more items, I'm going to give another peek. A miller head would look pretty good on my 20T.

 

When I was a kid we had 2 LeRoi 4 cylinder engines, both were from high pressure,120 lbs. 2 nozzle sprayers used in agriculture. One ended up on a "Sawrig" built on a 32 Studebaker frame. Both had the later Fairbanks and Morse mags. Later on we used a Le Roi compressor at a mine. They were good running, easy starting (crank) engines.

 

Brent, looks like it may bolt up to an A or B ? Couple zeniths hanging off it would be cool as heck.

 

Definitely a '28 - '34 Ford 4 cylinder twin updraft intake made for 2 Zeniths, Tillotsons or perhaps a set of Winfields.

 

Yes, it's got the same type of mounts and spacing as my banger intake. I assumed Miller's were the same. See... dumbing it down!

 

I do have a bunch of decent A and B carbies I could use... but, nothing beats my BCChopit intake. So for now, this is a paperweight.

 

Heck Brent, If it's just a paperweight I'll take it off your hands! I've been thinking of running dual Zeniths.

 

I have screwed around with my electric fuel pump long enough. The previous owner installed a nice new gas tank in the trunk of my roadster. He also put what looks like a brand new electric pump downhill from the tank. I ran 5/16' gasline from the pump to the ford downdraft two barrel on my four cylinder.
The gas won't pump up the little uphill rise from where it comes through the frame to the carb. I've checked for kinks and to see if the fuel filter is on correctly. I blew air through the line and got bubbles at the tank. I had to pour gas throughout the system from the carb end for the pump to start pumping. It worked for a while, but the car died about a mile from home
I posted a pump question here on the hamb and the best guess was a venting problem. Making sure the vent was good didn't do anything. Last night I took off the outgoing gasline and let the gas flow from the tank through the pump to see if anything was clogging it. When I re-assembled it ran like a top. Tonight I went out and the same weak stream problem and no start.
Unless anyone has any ideas about the pump I have, can anyone make a suggestion for a good pump that would work with my 29? Thanks.

 

It's plumbed backwards

 

Nice intake Brent! I grew up two minutes from Monrovia. Also a few years ago I had a couple of updraft Winfields that would have been perfect, I wish I still had them.

 

Like this?

 

Hapydz, I know I aked you this before, but what model Zeniths are those?

 

Mac; I don't remember you asking this before but as I am soon to be 72, anything is possible LOL. Anyway they are new Zenith 13922 (still made in the USA as a direct replacement for the Model A engine). They came from Automotive Test Systems, Ph 360-344-3339. Others may have them. They were $205.09 each in late 2007.

Maybe Google the make and model no. to find other suppliers.
I hope this helps Mac
Ron

 

Well, I have been lurking the banger posts and after a small effort last night I felt I could post an update.

I finished my sixties era 32 in November and have been taking it easy and getting on top of things like work and the other chassis jobs etc.

I have also been having a cleanout of parts and stuff but I also have been thinking about a track style T of some sorts.

I was able to borrow my old T roadster body back and mock up what you see here.

Its a low key thing to do in my spare time as time and limited funds permit.

 

welcome back Greg

 

Don't know if you're joking, but if not how would it be pumping at all?

 

Twin downdraft SU's! I'm running a single at the moment but I've since found it's twin....

 

The check valves are leaking allowing it to pump.

Is it possible that it was taken apart and and the in and out valve switched

If it's one of those little electronic pumps. They must be mounted at specific way. They don't 'self prime' Even if mounted lower that the tank!

No I am NOT joking.

 

Here is a link to the travel blog of a group of Model A's over from the USA currently travelling NZ: https://sites.google.com/site/modelarestorersclubofarizona/new-zealand-tour-blog-2011

 

Yes, except for the head! Is that a Riley?

 

Yes Ben, it's one of Charlie Yapps repro heads.
Ron

 

Thanks for the link. I recognize some of those folks! Looks like a good time in NZ!