April Bang-er thread 2011 OOOGGGAAA BOOOGAAA

Hey guys,was wondering if anyone else has seen the
new SCAT forged counterweighted cranks for A,B, and
T? They're a little spendy but might be worth the $$
if helps the broken crank problems

 

I have.

I've toured the shop and I think they are first class.

I bought one for the Rajo T engine I'm building.

At the time, the forgings were not big enough to make "B" spec cranks.

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Crazy what radjo head are you using there seem to be quite a few I think the BB was best

 

It is a dual plug B. It is the same as the BB with lower compression.




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I know a couple of you have been following this thread:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=579644

If you are interested in early speedsters, check it out.

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CDO, Nice T, also I want to hear more about that Hal in your avitar!

 

Looked at this for a while wondering what the sheet metal pieces between the carbs and the manifold were for.

Then I realized--the carbs are SU's

Herb

 

Here's a pic of the "B" I picked up a few months back with the cracked C crank and block. Also the one of Winfield updrafts I sold a few years ago.

 

Make sure it is wired correctly .Positve ground confuses some people.

 

I need some carb analysis and help.
I rebuilt (as best I could with a kit) a Ford AAI which is very similar to a 94 if not the same thing. I blew out the jets and the accelerator pump jets. Everything seemed clear.

I'm using it on my recently started for the first time Model A. I also put on some headers and a Lion's Head.

I can get it running and idling high, around 6oo rpms, but it will stall if I give it any gas at all. If I kick up the idle I can get it to take the gas, but it backfires through the carb and pops out the exhaust. If I try to drive it the backfiring and cutting out usually stalls the engine.

I've adjusted the air/fuel starting with the suggested 1 1/2 turn,but I've screwed them in and out thinking the carb was either starving for gas, or too rich.

It does run a little better with the choke half on, but that might just be that the idle is kicked up to 800-900 rpms. It still runs like shit with the choke on when I try to drive it.

I thought there might be an air leak somewhere, so I re-tightened the manifold to the engine and the carb to the manifold. I'm not sure of the torque that I should apply to the engine/manifold but it's pretty tight.

I even advanced the spark ever so slightly to see if that would help. No.

I have been having problems with my electric fuel pump getting enough gas to the carb. I finally just took off the regulator and there seems to be a good flow now.

I can't run it long enough to get a plug read. Plugs are carboned up.

I also checked the float adjustment.

I'd appreciate any suggestions or input. Sorry for the ramble but I thought it might save some questions.

 

It sounds like it is running lean. I am guessing you have a down draft carburetor. The fuel line may be plugged too. Is the pump you are using wired correctly. The positive ground confuses some people and the pump will not work properly. I had a terrible time with my electric pump. The wire to the ignition switch was was bad. It looked good but was bad inside and found the problem when I was checking out another possible cause. I installed a pressure gauge on mine and the pressure was all over the place until I found the broken wire.

Please keep us informed. I am not a expert and others will offer suggestions too.

 

Thanks Sturgis!
Yeah I put in about 5 more gallons and it did run better, lots less backfire, and no cut out. But I still needed 1/2 choke. It will probably run a little bit better with an air cleaner. One's on order. Maybe I should order bigger jets.

Am I thinking right that screwing the air/fuel screws out makes it run leaner. Is that correct?

But my bigger issue now is that I'm blowing oil out of my crankcase. I have low compression in one cylinder. I'm over at the Ford Barn begging for information.

So, you can see, I may be screwed, blued and tatooed.

 

The Ford Barn is a good place. I think the two adjustment screws are adjusted best with a vacuum gauge. The higher the vacuum is what you want. Blowing oil is a blown head gasket on an over head engine but model "a" do not have oil that high. Do you think you have water in the oil? That would be a head gasket and low compression. Model "A"s are fun to work on. Head gaskets are kind of an easy fix.

 

i here you on the blow by issue
i think you have a leak on the intake. i once had a flathead that had a port opened on the back of the intake.. could only get that thing to run if i choked it
tk

 

Thanks Tub,
Are you saying that the engine blowing oil out of the crankcase might be non sealing intake? I did make some gaskets with my downdraft carb manifold and tightened the heck out of the manifold nuts. Should I put double thickness gaskets in?

 

SCAT does make a counter balanced B crank now. $1500 with oil holes. Anybody running one? http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/news/model_a-t.html

 

nope
the crank case issue is sepperate
i think you have a vacuum leak and thats why the choke needs to be on
is ther a gasket behind the header flang and then another behind the intake?
tk

 

Yeah, I just cut some out of gasket material for between the intake and the headers. Between the headers and the block I used standard Model A gaskets. The intake gasket I used was the thin gray stuff. Should I get thicker?

 

A quick way to find a vacuum leak is with a can of ether.

Spray it around the intake system while the engine is idleing, and if the rpm increase, there is your leak. Be careful around the headers. Use a spray tube like the one that comes on WD 40 so that you can pin point the spray.


You also might check that the distributor rotor is oriented correctly. If it is not lined up with the posts on the cap, it will cut out too.


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Maybe a dumb question, but what care should I take around the headers? What could happen?

 

You ever put gasoline on a fire....

 

Hot headers + flammable gas = Kaboom.

Do it while the engine is cold. Short burst and Keep it away from the header tubes.

Doing this on a banger is not for the faint of heart.


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Told you it was a dumb question

 

:]' wait around, I'll ask some doozies.

Did you have your intake and exhaust manifolds milled level together?

If your #4 cyclinder has bad compression that maybe your blowback. When you had the head off how did it all look? Did you take pictures?

 

Actually, I did another compression check this morning with all the plugs out (like I'm supposed to) and I got 120 in each one.

I don't think I have blowby, I think I put too much oil in the crankcase by a quart. What I was supposed to put in just came to the low mark. I'm saying my pennance over at the ford barn now. Let's see if you can top that stupid move, Saxton! I think I got everybody beat.

I'm still not getting good news from the carb. I tried the starting fluid and I couldn't find any leaks.

I looked in the bowl and found it was only about 1/4 full, so I adjusted the float to shut off higher.

The carb idles good, but hesitates and dies with any throttle. Also continues to backfire through carb and out the exhaust.

I have a scalded dog intake and a red's headers exhaust. I didn't have any matching done, but I have them gasketed all around.

Anybody know how tight I should make the manifold bolts. They are pretty tight, but maybe I should go tighter..

 

Rmak what year is your vehicle 28-29 has a lower gas tank than the 30-31 and you may need to add a fuel electric pump to keep the bowl filled.

 

Did everyone see the tech article on the MillerHi speed head T5 model A upgrade package in the May issue of Hot Rod Deluxe. Check out the pictures on pages 79, 80 & 81 first worth the effort. Well after your done... turn to page 82. Checked out the T5 tech article. Miller web site does not list components nor if the components are sold separately like the u joint. Nice article package no cost info. Need to call for details I guess.

Question a while back came across a Ebay auction for new model A bell housing Aluminum for attaching a T5 to the four banger with pedal mount. Seems like the buy it now was $350. Does any one know where if there is a web site. My Ebay is set to save the link for sixty days, lost the link.

 

I think a drill costs a lot less than $350

 

We'll see, but I do try to read, listen, and think before I do something. Maybe it's why I just chug along.

 

www.macsspeed.com

http://www.macsspeed.com/adapters_1.html

I believe sold in the USA by Squeak Bell from Bakersfield, who was formerly the owner of KiwiKonnection . Now Bell Auto ...

You will need to check with Graeme at Macsspeed for details

http://www.macsspeed.com/contact.html