April Bang-er thread 2011 OOOGGGAAA BOOOGAAA

Appreciate the help 97

 

Factory torque for the exhaust/intake is 45 pounds. But I wouldn't torque that aggressive. Start at 20 and run then go to 25-30. Save yourself from ruining something.

***Didn't know you had a reds header and special intake. So no advice on seating it properly or torque.

If you want to see if its the carb or a fuel pump issue rig up a gas can (gravity tank) with a hose to your carb. Elevate your can way above your carb and away from your engine. Should rule out the tank and flow issue.

120lbs cylinder compression, well done.

 

I got a quick red's headers question. The headers come with welding that sticks out past the plate on the engine side. What kind of gasket do you use to seal this welded part to the engine? I put on stock gaskets, but I don't know if they are sealing.

 

Hill Climb in Auburn, Ca. next weekend
F.A.S.T. Nor-Cal is having a hill climb in Auburn, Ca. next weekend. It is for pre 1934 bangers only. Go to www.hotforhotfours.com for info. Hope a few of you can make it!

 

Doing a little dreaming this weekend.. Hope to get er to Town this summer sometime so I can start workin on er and get a Banger back under the hood..
Randy L Peterson
Flandreau SD

 

That almost looks like a wet dream...
Nice ride get that thing home and send more pics

 

<<<<<< It should be here Friday!!!!!!!

.

 

Friday... That is so far away
lucky bastard
Bill

 

The weld is designed to seal. Looks like s--t but there are problems some times with just sealing the flat plate. I believe they grind or sand them to seal evenly. I take mine and have a nice bead welded around the OD of the tubes on the other side so I don't run out of material when matching the ports. When these companies first started manufacturing these tube headers there were problems with them. I use a stock "A" gasket.

Actually ford did not have torque specs everything was tightened by feel and common sense. I might be wrong but original manifold nuts were brass, don't know but think you just tightened them enough. Brass nuts were used on most early exhaust manifolds. We went to the Chevy garage and asked how much to tighten the head bolts on an early Chevy 6 and they told us to use a ratchet and tighten them until they popped.

 

rmak, dumb question for you on the holley 94. Do you have the accelerator pump hooked up. those carbs will not run when you are running a single carb with no accelerator pump. act a lot like your describing.

 

Bill, ya a bad choice of words. No factory torque settings on intake. A repo suggestion.

I torque because I feel that I will be consistent in pressure applied and I have ruined things tightening just a "little" more then I should. That's just me.

 

Not a dumb question. I appreciate the help. I got the pump hooked up, but I did find one problem was that one side of the accelerator jets was clogged when I tried to blow air through it. Cleaned it up as best I could with a torch file so now more gas shoots out.

I did replace all the round fitting gaskets too and the carb is doing better. The engine also benefitted by advancing the spark. I do believe my timng pin hole is worn so the spark read was off.

 

The timing pin hole only gets you close. I assume you are using a stock A dist. Take the cap off and set the points. Notice that the point cam has a big screw in it. This is for final adjustment. They make a proper wrench to go over the cam. You can get this from your Model A supply house. Use a good screw driver on the screw. Note the location of the slot. When the ignition lever is all the way up (retarded) the engine should just run- like you got a big cam in it. If it does this the timing is set alright. If it runs smoothly it is set to far advanced and the cam needs to be retarded-rotated counter clockwise. Move the cam only the width of the slot which is about 3 degrees. Try it again. This may take a few tries, but once you get the hang of it you can do it at the side of the road at midnight with a flastlight in your mouth. Once you are done the car should run good with the lever horizontal ( 9 o-clock postion) used for in town driving and with the lever fully advanced- all the way down- for open road driving. When going down a big hill throw the lever all the way up to full retard and help from over heating the brakes. Another tip: scratch a line in the center on the top of the brass on the rotor. File a little notch on the dist. body. This will help you find tdc of number 1. Do this after you have it set correctly. Hope this helps a little!

 

Here's a few pictures of the Model B engine I just had a friend build up . It's a mild build around 65+ hp . big valves , 3/4 cam , counter balanced crank ,nice ported intakes , 6 to1 winfield head , have a rebuilt wico magneto and some other goodies .

I plan on taking the 8ba out mid summer and putting the B engine in the little 27 T roadster . It will stay the same color blue . What color should I paint the engine ?? help .
thanks guys

 

Damn good Steve, I think I'm going to go out and time my car. You really need to post this on the Barn!

 

blindowl, that B looks nice.

 

Looks like i need to get out and give this a go, mine runs well (ish) on the open road with the lever at 9 o'clock............guess it's time to check it out

Thanks

Keith

 

Had a crappy day.....
Both my engine block.... AND MY RILEY HEAD are CRACKED!!

Anybody know if the head can be welded up?
For the price of the head, I would be willing to try...

 

I have done some amazing things with JB weld that are still on the road after nearly a decade. Not saying it was a great idea, just saying that I was in a pinch and it worked well for the price I paid.

 

I'm open to anything///

I hate to just put the head on a shelf.......

 

Where is it cracked? My original has been brazed as were a lot of them. Have you checked in your area for someone experienced in this type of work.

 

I've a pretty good collection of old tools. This one is for aircraft but shows the idea. These use an offset foot to reach the piston. You turn the engine one way and mark the pully then the other way to the same piston height and mark again. The center between these marks is TDC

I'll try to find and photograph the Automotive tool I've got.

 

The head is cracked in three parallel cracks across the quench area in the number four cylinder

 

Cast iron can be welded by a skilled practitioner. Often they drill a small hole at the ends of the crack preheat the whole head after veeing out the crack then weld it however this would depend on the overall condition of the head and position of the crack they can also be braised with brass but I think this can be an ugly fix

 

Bluto old tools are good I also have quite a collection [my grand father started an engineering business and foundary in the 1930s] the skill is in knowing when to use the modern stuff in order to achieve a better finish.

 

Some of these tools are just right to fix ol'stuff

I have a 'Bull dog' broken axle that works wonders. It fishes the broken part out of the housing in seconds

Skill? Well, Yes you can't be stupid!

 

look at some of the tools used for fixing model tees great stuff saves hours but was that not Fords idea keep em on the road the peoples car KW probably made their business out of Ford as did many others how many other well known car makers made parts for Ford?

 

If you read through the Ford Model T repair manual, they show you how to bore and hone a cylinder with the engine still in the car.

.

 

I have the tools to turn the crank in the car.

And measure the main bearings without removing the crank.... no not plastic crap

 

My father told me a story of how he and my uncle changed main bearings on a baby Austin at the side of the road.........needs must etc.............


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