Are there any good books on turbocharging?

Just wondering if there are any recent books out that cover the installation of turbocharging? I figured with all the hype on the late models running twin turbos there should be some good info out there. I have never messed with it, so something on a 3rd grade level is ideal.

 

Does anyone read books any more?

I just did my first turbo without reading a book about it.

 

I research things to death. It keeps me from spending money I don’t need to spend. I was just mainly wanting schematics on how to plumb things efficiently.

 

Don't mess with the books. You'd get more specific and correct information just by keeping a thread going on here, or using ChapGPT (which I've been playing with lately and have been really impressed) or Google.

As far as plumbing, there's nothing to it if you're keeping it as simple as can be. The most important stuff to know now is what the end goal is. Then you size things accordingly based on that.

 

I am building a 445 FE for my 56 F100. I was thinking that a guy could build it to be reliable and drivable without having a lot of go fast parts in it. Trying to stay away from .650” lift etc. just a toque monster that can be driven daily with good street manners and AC. This is replacing my old, tired 2002 crew cab.

 

A big single turbocharger, external wastegate with a soft spring, and some good valve springs to eliminate float under boost would give it some pep without getting crazy involved and expensive. Of course you'll want a good blow through carburetor and some form of timing/fuel pressure management.

 

I could mail this copy Dec 2003 for $10 to Oklahoma from Lewes,Delaware/if agreeable contact me with your mailing address and I will direct u where to send the CASH($10 bill in envelope will work) John with 75 years in central Texas but recently relocated permanently to Lewes,Delaware!!

 

Plumb ?

Fuel , Good name brand hoses,
Gates Barracuda hose , Earls , Vibrant ,ext . I run PTFE for fuel any more
On my H -R & Race
Oem DD carbs , Lawn mover , tractor
Gates ,
Turbo & Fuel pumps , regulator,
There are Many OEM off shelf , pick a part ,cheap & reliable
Turbo , $50 - afew Thousand A-M ,
Local track most time good source from hands On ,
Each Combo different,
Just look @ Pro teams , well funded racer ,
20 or so different Injectors Hats
Turbos , Ext

 

Just curious... can the FE exhaust manifold/header be flipped upside down or flip flopped to face up and forward? It looks like it can based on the bolt holes, but I don't know if the ports would still line up. If so, easy up and forward turbo header. It's a common method to turbo an LS.

see here for visual...
https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/truck-manifolds-in-a-g-body.221519/page-2#/topics/221519?page=3

 

It isn't all that recent, but the fundementals still apply, and I like Corky Bell's Maximum Boost

The biggest challenge is sizing the turbo(s) for the application. This can be done manually on a compressor map downloaded off the internet or there's online calculators. Garrett turbos have one online called 'Boost Advisor', but it only has the Garrett turbo's maps. Other online calculators include other manufacturer's turbos.

Just an observation, but it seems popular to just install the biggest turbo possible so you have bragging rights on your XXmm turbo. My preference is a turbo that isn't any bigger than it absolutly has to be to keep the inertia down and spool quickly and learning to size the turbo properly is a big advantage.

Of course, you can always find somebodys set-up that works and copy that.

Again, this is just my opinion, but if you want "reliable and driveable" you're probably going to want fuel injection to build on rather than a blow-through carb setup

 

Ditto. I don't think I would consider a carbed turbo if I wanted the kind of characteristics you describe.
If you are set on using a carb, some sort of programmable ignition would be good to have.

 

Might want to research
If wanting to use a carb blow threw
Maybe abetter use for a Pro charger
Or other
Over turbo

 

Corky Bell's book was a great resource back in the day, I have had my copy for 25 years. Great for the fundamentals of boost, but outdated for our modern times. When you punch in the parameters into the calculators (even the modern Garrett and Borg Warner online versions) and try to find the optimum turbocharger for your application, youll find that the size is always smaller than you'd expect. I'd consider those turbocharger sizing recommendations to be the absolute smallest turbo you could get away with.

For example, the popular Borg Warner S480 turbo, which is originally equipped on a 12-liter diesel, is often used in the performance world on small cube V8's and even max effort inline 4's. Run the turbo that they spec out in the calculator, will likely result in needing more boost to achieve the same power level as a larger turbo. More boost sounds good, but isn't always safe or easy. If you can use less boost for the same power level, it'd be safer for the engine.

If Root isn't going with EFI, a blow through carburetor would be fine without the need for an intercooler, since the fuel will help cool the compressed air.

A lot of other parts are often overlooked and not considered through the old books and modern calculators... things like exhaust flow, diameter and length of exhaust tubing, collectors, merges, bends, etc. Also charge piping length, diameter, bends, etc. Wastegate placement and size will also account for a lot of these variables that are overlooked. Backpressure, airflow, air temperature are key factors in making more power with less psi with a larger turbo.

For Root's 445ci FE, a mild mannered street engine with a little pep by way of a single turbo, one of the common and affordable "GT45", S480" or "7875" turbochargers would be an ideal size. It's not going to be a high RPM motor, so a .81 or .96 A/R size turbine housing would provide low rpm boost with little to no lag. A good external 44mm-50mm wastegate with a soft spring to keep the boost in the single digits (safe zone for a basically stock bottom end). This will easily put that engine in 500+ hp territory without pushing the limits of the turbo or the engine.

 

Not a FE
I started playing with turbo 10 years ago in 5w

 

I dunno for sure. I’m sure I’m not the first guy to think about this. I’ll start looking around.

 

I would love to convert it to EFI, however the reliability just isn't there on the aftermarket stuff.

 

Yes you will see complaints online,
But what Not seen is there 100's thousands sold & 200 people have issues , thats a small amount .
I have several Holleys
On 1 ,Little hiccups Nothing major though.
NOW most Holley tech SUCK !!!
Do not know more then average beginner !!
FuelTec also good
Same with Mega squirt .
If you think out side box
You can take a OBD1 off since you working with a Ford & install to your
F E engine & make decent power ,
& Really Does not need to be OBD1 Ford , you can adapt a Gm
& for boost & fuel use the old
Boost Regulator to over rich injectors.
Its a amazing what you can do with
EFI wants you learn ,
Mix Old tunning with New
Best of both worlds .

One thing I would like go see is some kind of Prorated upgrade Exchange ,
@ One time there was with a few companies

 

The majority of the complaints are due to the end user's self-inflicted problems. They hook a wire up wrong, or don't add the ground wire, or drop the ECU on the ground. "Hmmm, it doesn't work" then they blame the aftermarket company for everything. They blast the company online, then the bandwagon of merry morons commenting about stuff that they have never even touched, but "read about a guy" jumps in and stirs the pot. There are more success stories for these aftermarket EFI systems than failures, but you don't hear about the successes as much as the failures because the dudes are out enjoying their shit rather than bitching.

Anyway,

EFI would be nice. Nothing aftermarket is going to be as dead reliable as a factory OEM EFI system, so take it for what it is. You could run a Holley Sniper EFI on a carb intake, they're good to 1-bar boost (~14.5psi) with their internal 2-bar MAP sensor. They're simple and easy. I've got a friend with 3 of his classic cars on Sniper systems, one of which is atop a 6-71 blown SBC. He loves them.

Also, Edelbrock makes a Victor EFI Intake Manifold for the FE, but its almost $1000. Then you'd need injectors, fuel rails, intake elbow, throttle body, etc. You'd also still need the EFI stuff, so the Terminator X would be the simplest system to use with that setup. I'm sure there's other stuff out there that's similar, but that's all I'm really familiar with for FE's.

You'd need to be able to control timing under boost either way. Holley's Hyperspark distributor is a plug and play with their Sniper or Terminator. Again, I'm sure there's other brands for FE's, but I know Holley makes the Hyperspark for the FE and it's plug & play. You could run the older FMU style systems that have a rising rate fuel pressure regulator as well.

I'm all for the EFI setup for tuneability, easy starts, better mileage, etc. But a carburetor modified for blow through, and a boost/timing control setup of some sort would be the cheapest approach to add a turbo the FE.

(or ditch the FE for an LS and make your life easy)

 

I'm sure a lot of guys out there cause their own issues with the EFI swaps, But I had a friend that eventually sent his back. He is one of the best mechanics I know and is very meticulous. He has a Cleveland in a 72 Mustang that he tried to convert. He spent months on the phone with tech and eventually they just told him to send it back.

The other issue is I plan on traveling a lot with this rig and if I am in Lubbock Texas and the ECU goes down, I am screwed. I asked Holley a while back how long tthe lead time was for an ECU and they told me "Oh probably 3-4 weeks". That's the fear factor that prevents me from commiting. I have never heard any bad press on the Edelbrock stuff, but I haven't researched it for the FE platform.

 

Like @TexasHardcore said ,
If you can think out side of
You can make many things work by faking it , Ecu
Like those HyperSpark type distributors ,
Having close to 50 yrs of parts
I faked one it using a old style crank trigger Made more work for my self
But I needed a very small cap distributor .
Hyper was to big .

If you check out a thread I started afew days ago , Unique 32 EFI F-H
& you study picture in link
You will see out side box thinking
Miss matching Old part to make modern work ,
In pictures
Crank trigger
Distributor ,
Then coil packs
Injected I think Direct into the Heads ,
Yada Yada ,, weird out side thinking ,

 

Old engine parts are getting hard to find on shelf ,
Simple things as comon SBC water pump , V belts , bearings

I will say again Almost all those Techs
Do not know , I am not exaggerating I probably went through 20 different Techs before I found One that actually knew what they were doing,
Raced with Holley In No prep , S-R & DD
& In out Side Tunner , The ones that really know what they're doing unless your buddies with them and have lots of cash they are eight month to a year out if they will even consider dealing with you.

 

Sounds like you guys need to be my tech guys instead of Holley.....

Here's what Edelbrock is showing for the FE. One option only.
https://www.edelbrock.com/edelbrock-pro-flo-4-efi-kit-35960-for-ford-fe-390-428-engines-35960.html

 

No , I am beginner , I can get it up & running ,
I just have Not had problem's Running & driving With
Idle ,
No start
Limp
Surging
Rich
Lean
Sensor failures.

I do not think the Edelbrock it that
Pricey , still needs Pump & Regulator,
Many Oem pumps will take car of
600 hp $150

I think of simple work around like shown in Picture

 

Without EFI & no experience with turbos & u looking for torque, I think your best bet is a GMC blower with 1 or 2 four barrels on top. Think it an easier build for your needs

 

Here's a few books:

 

@Roothawg I get the fantasy of a new combo and learning, I really do.
But your stated goal is a 1956 F100 with a 445 FE engine doing lots of traveling.
Unless that travel involves a Cannonball run, A well done 400+ cubic inch in a truck that's under 5000 pounds (probably under 4200) shouldn't require the added complexity of all this.

Is this going to tow or haul a lot? Are you planning on lots of Rocky Mountain crossings?
Do you regularly take up the gauntlet of random folks out on the road to run up to 100+MPH?
I'd hazard that you need under 100 HP to push that nose and windshield thru the air at 65 MPH.
With all the math out there online, it can probably be calculated by fuel used, RPM, engine size and weight.
Having an extra 300+ HP versus 200 extra won't matter.
If this is going to be a tow rig, added complexity for more power is not the best way to go. Drop in a diesel and have all the torque you need.

 

So, to cover a few of the questions.

Will it be a tow rig? Yes. Not pulling a D6 dozer, but I would like to pull our vintage travel trailer and possibly an enclosed race car trailer.

Am I planning a lot of Rocky Mtn crossings- Very possibly. We love the National Parks and now that I am retired, we will be spending a lot of time traveling.

Am I gonna run it 100 mph plus- probably not on a regular basis.

 

Valid responses! I was asking to get solid real world use ideas.
Trailers are a biggie and can really increase the power needed to pull comfortably.
Make sure brakes and cooling are also a big step up.
Was reading yesterday related to racing that a German engineer said that thermal management is the toughest part. Makes sense because more power = more heat and you want things as light and aero as possible.

 

YouTube and the sloppy mechanics Facebook page have tons of info, Matt did all of the low buck turbo research and testing years ago, all you have to do is follow his lead. I did my first turbo and researched it a ton because I wanted it to run more than around the block. Dirt cheap too, you do not need to spend a lot of money, you can spend tons if you listen to some people.
Here is a run on sentence with all the low buck stuff. I have a 2001 4.8 with over 200k miles, pulled the pistons to add ring gap which actually wasn't needed ( they were all at .027 already), put in an Amazon Elgin 1839 copy cam with reused lifters, reused rod bearings, reused rings on a dingle hone finish, BTR small bore 7 layer head gaskets, reused TTY head bolts, decapped stock 4.8 injectors which now flow over 80 pounds. 2 bar MAP sensor and running a speed density tune on the factory P01 truck PCM. Holley Terminator is much easier to use but I wanted to learn to do the tuning for cheap.
Big thing is to not go lean, I am running a 95 caprice wagon tank with an Evil energy $40 pump feeding a surge tank with a real Bosch 044 pump, Evil energy PTFE 8AN feed line from the 044 to stock truck fuel rails, 6AN everywhere else. Turbo is a VS racing 7875 on a set of turbo headers I got off marketplace and modified to fit and made my own crossover pipe, VS racing 44mm waste gate and an ebay blow off valve. Swap meet intercooler and made the air intake plumbing from 3" exhaust pipe.
Ebay LS 302-3 oil pan which has 1/2" NPT ports on the side so you can run a 10AN turbo drain to the pan. Turbo oil feed is a 1/4" non restricted nicop line from the back of the block where the oil pressure gauge line is as well. Journal bearing turbos do not need a restrictor, ball bearing turbos do.
NGK TR6 plugs gapped to .025.
Trans is a TH400 with a B/M transpak I put in 20 years ago and sat on the floor since, $50 swap meet mild converter and a mustang 8.8 rear with a 2:73 posi.
I am running only 8 pounds right now on pump 93 and having a blast with it, no idea what it makes but it is a lot of fun when it gets into boost. Drives around like any other car when just cruising around. I am about ready to turn it up more, but the big reason I used a 4.8 is who cares if I scatter it! I am running a very soft tune so it should live.
Big thing with turbos is the bigger the exhaust the better, I can only fit a 3" so I have a full 3" system and a dump valve that puts the exhaust out the passenger side fender port holes under boost. Or at least it is supposed to, right now it does not want to cooperate LOL. 4" exhaust would be better.