This thread will show how one can properly overcome the inherent roll out pressures of the on board carb throttle found on the Chrysler B&B carbs usually found on the Asche Dual Carb intakes. What you will see is a straight forward and simple device that will allow the user to adjust just the exact amount of spring pressure so that both carbs are properly held all the way in at idle. These are the only carbs....the ONLY carbs....ever manufactured during the era that were not "at ease" when in idle, but rather want to roll out to 1/2 throttle. In other words, it is the return spring that has to over come the considerable pressures found in one carb and in the few dual carbs actually offered by Dodge, the pressures are obviously doubled. As the result of this, the spring has to remain under constant pressure. Turn off the key and walk away and the return spring is still working. Have the return spring fail and its 5-4-3-2-1 BOOM~! Crazy? Yea, it is just plain nuts. Most of the Asche dual carb builds on the straight six's that I have seen are not finished. One can find a few examples of a finished project and I have closely examined as many pictures as I can of them. It is clear, folks struggle to hold the carbs in idle state and not end up with a gas pedal that has lost all its intrinsic and proper feel. I've seen up to four (4) return springs applied. I've spoken to those that live with it, some return the carbs to idle by....get ready for it....lifting the pedal with their toes. Remember, the George Asche Dual Intakes are beautifully designed and finished off. None of the inherent mistakes made in the vintage designs (sharp angles/box ends, shear surfaces, lack of velocity down force, poor air flow distribution, proximity to the exhaust, etc. etc.) George's intakes are nothing short of spectacular. The carbs in question represent the only carbs actually used by Dodge (for a brief period) in a dual configuration, so it is worth getting it all sorted. So, for those interested, here is how to use one (1) high quality spring, adjust it to perfection and resolve the issue once and for all. I wrote earlier about how placing a single return spring exactly equidistant from each of the two carb's on board accelerator arms is the only way to deliver the spring's force. That was made possible by the cross bar I designed that slipped under the two carb's flange nut and spans the distance on the opposite side of the main linkage shaft's return spring lever. See the pics below. With that properly placed, and in the absence of what I am about to show you, the only adjustment to the spring was made by loosening up the arm and changing its position on the main linkage shaft. That is what everybody has been doing and that chews up the main linkage shaft and makes matters (failure of the arm to hold) worse. And, as you can imagine, as the spring begins to stretch over time, one has to loosen the arm and tighten it up. The force is considerable to hold these carbs in idle, surprisingly so. So to be able to perfectly adjust just enough will finally allow the driver to get their carbs in idle position AND get their pedal feel back. Lets take a look. Here is the digital mock-up I did to develop the idea.... And here is the piece in reality.... The groove is for the final spring extension bend. The device simply attaches to the return spring linkage arm and in doing so is much more efficient because it can rotate freely and allows for the precise amount of spring tension to be set....and adjusted over time. It also allows for the linkage's return spring arm to have a flat made on the main linkage shaft to properly and much more safely hold the arm in position. No more chewing up the shaft...or worse. View attachment 6165168 So there it is. The arm is properly held on the shaft, the spring is never going to completely let go as can happen when one uses a threaded Allan stud on the spring's straight shaft. Adjust it and you are good to go. I hope this helps anybody using these carbs. Please let me know if you have questions about performance, efficiency, etc.
thanks, I appreciate that. I would be interested in seeing what the torsion spring location ended up being. Experimented with adding a torsion spring to each carb (to much force needed, too little space) and had to change gears. The '34's pedal actuated throttle run is unlike all the later Dodge's. It com es through the firewall at the pedal and than transverses the whole firewall to the passenger side where a 90 swing up to activate the intermediary run (custom for the duals) to the stock intake mounted '34 Dodge 2-way throttle (now mounted on the Asche. The arrangement is totally different from the "over the head" Dodge system '35 and on.
both of mine were for 1950 dodge cars. the torsion springs were on the linkage rather the carbs. I think I have a pic or two of the setup, but I bet you can't see the springs
The Jalopy Journal
