asphalt modified chassis

I'd like to build an early style asphalt modified frame to go under my 27 Dodge coupe. Does anyone have any drawings of the 2 x 4 frames with independent front suspension? Any "naked" pictures of mid-sixties coupes?

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whelen_Modified_Tour

dirt and asphalt mods

http://www.troyerracecars.com/dirt_...wfull&id=1221051533&archive=&start_from=&ucat=&


search these builders
cars are based on tubular chassis built by fabricators such as Troyer Engineering, Chassis Dynamics, Spafco, and Raceworks

You can buy a complete USED rolling chassis with wide 5's and a quick change rear for a few thousand ...

GO to racingjunk.com they have lots of modifieds for sale

 

Racingjunk.com

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/76/Modifieds/post/1765752/97-SST-RE-Car.html


http://www.racingjunk.com/search?ac...=mr&resultsPP=20&hideNotification=true&page=1

 

Vintage mods that RACE

http://www.vroamodifieds.com/

http://www.vintagemods.com/

 

did you know that almost all the winning mods on the east coast used to use 1953 and 1954 chevy frames?


vintage mod tech discusions,,,



http://vroamodifieds.com/phpBB-2.0.22/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=10&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

 

Yeah, Tricknology, I was in the stands at Thompson, booing along with the crowd, when the new tube framed cars put them out to pasture. Now I'd like to build one for the street and some autocross. With all the offset, and left turn only geometry, I can't see a modern SK working on the road. What I need help with is building something like this:

 

Ha, I'd seen that thing a few years ago, but forgotten about it. That is just BAD-ASS.....

 

Look up Charlie Jarzombek's Chevy coupe or his earlier one known as The Bug.

Bob

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=jarzombek+coupe&FORM=BIFD#focal=7791aeec86096994080710f8726732fd&furl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lasheefs.com%2FImages%2FRestorations%2FSeaman%2Fcoupe11.jpg

 

That car was in Hot Rod's first "Dare to be Different" feature not that long ago. I don't have it but I'm sure there's owner and builder info in the article.

 

OOhh, If it is for the road then you can buy tubular racing front clips Cheap! ($500) then just graft them onto you frames center section

howe racing

http://www.howeracing.com/c-308-front-frames.aspx

lefthander

http://www.lefthanderchassis.com/viewproduct.asp?idproduct=00135888

coleman

http://www.colemanracing.com/store/shopexd.asp?id=29

Portcity

click on front clip picks on lower left.

http://www.portcityracecars.com/chassis/perimeter/

http://www.portcityracecars.com/chassis/perimeter_act/

 

also there are 1,000's of OLD tubular framed short track cars for sale for Cheap.

go to www.racingjunk.com and look under asphalt oval cars ,then click on the Late model subset.

complet rolling chassis can be had for about a grand.

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/...8515/RANDERCAR-TOURING-PERIMETER-CHASSIS.html

http://www.racingjunk.com/search?ac...21&priceMin=&priceMax=&sortBy=pl&resultsPP=20

 

Lot's of good info, particularly Port City, Thanks guys. The 27 didn't come with a frame, so the front clip idea won't work. I have the back half cut out in 2 x 3 x 3/16, S10 rear axle, wheels, spindles and hubs, a set of coilovers, and Chevette R&P, Turbocoupe 2.3 and T5. Wide fives 16 x 10 sure would look good though...

Got the idea, somehow, that I can put together a rolling chassis for the cost of catalog beam front end kit. We'll see how that works out ...

 

for a grand you can get a used oval track super late model rolling chassis with all the goodies,,,

Wide Five aluminum hubs, 4 wheel disc brakes, mastter cyls, droped spindles , R&P steering, quick change rear end, springs and coil over shocks, gauges and a complete chassis/frame that can be modified for your needs,,,

Why go the s-10 route?

would it not be penny wise and pound foolish?

 

Tricknology

The only modifieds within a thousand miles of me are the IMCA type with stock clips. While I love the class, that just isn't what I'm looking for. I looked at that $1000 rolling chasis ad you attached: That either has to be a miss-print, or part of a divorce settlement! Racers know well what their stuff is worth, and $1000 wont buy a whole lot.

 

Start with a straight rail tubular chassis (Offset type, not perimeter type). Those frames will most closely mimic the mid-70s Modified chassis you're looking to dupe. Cut off the cage (it won't work for your body anyway), put your centerline right between the two rails, and suddenly you have a nice parallel straight and narrow frame that should be just right for your Dodge. The offset is in the engine mounts, control arms, and the axles, so by adjusting that stuff you can even out the distribution. If you pick an old dirt late model roller, say something from the early 90s (they're still out there), you can get the frame you need with a lot of cool parts for under 2 grand. There are a bunch of those old cars in Mississippi, Louisiana, and Alabama.

 

They just used 55-56-57 chevy frames. Sometimes they'd cut off the front clip and replace it with early '60's ford for the beefier a-arms and spindles.

 

You'd be surprised what a grand will buy from a guy getting out of racing or updating to something newer & faster. Lots of local short tracks have a swap meet too once a year in the Spring and there can be some real bargains. A rolling chassis that's a few years out dated with no engine, beat up body & dry rotted slicks around here can be had for less than a grand in most cases. Check local racing websites classified ads as well. Speed shop bulletin boards, ask around where the local racers hang out, etc. The last car I owned was a Nascar Pro-Stock that started out as a Busch North car built in the mid 80s & raced with a Buick V6 back in those days. Big dollar car in it's day built using a Laughlin chassis, full floating Ford 9" rear, 4 wheel disc brakes with Wilwood calipers, Sweet rack & pinion steering, etc. All the good stuff and a beat up fiberglass 87 Buick Regal body & junk tires. No engine or trans. We paid 400 bucks...

 

If in Texas DIRT racing is KING then get a dirt LM roller,,

here are some cheap rollers in texas,,

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/68/Late_Models/post/1732816/99-grt-latemodel.html

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/68/Late_Models/post/1740475/Econo-Late-model-ready-to-race.html

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/68/Late_Models/post/1813129/99-grt-for-sale-or-trade.html

EVEN IF They are asking more than you want to pay,,,just low ball them,,they will likley take your low ball offer ,,they HAVE VERY LITTLE RESALE VALUE,,

for this car I would NOT pay more than $2,000.....

You could probally get it for $1,000 minus all the motor and trans stuff

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/...07/2002-Lou-Feggers-full-rolling-chassis.html

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/68/Late_Models/post/1803086/2002-RAYBURN-LATEMODEL-ROLLER.html

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/68/Late_Models/post/1764555/Race-Ready-Limited-Late-Model.html

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/...765572/2001-warrior-roller-or-race-ready.html


34 Coupe body

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/70/Other/post/1768604/34-ford-coupe.html

 

complete Asphalt Super Late Model minus engine and trans with a full tubular chassis, R&P steering, wide five hubs, Big disc brakes, coil over aluminum shocks, quick change rear axle,

use something like this to build a HOT ROD.

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/74/Late_Models/post/1816083/Outlaw-Late-Model-for-sale.html

 

I've been watching this thread closely...I've thought several times about building a "street" asphalt modified...As far as using a former Super/Late Model track car, what would you have to change in the front suspension ( Control arms esp.) for the street...What would you have to change from a car made to turn left,to a car that would turn either way??... and since most race parts say .."not for street use", how would the suspension/brakes,etc hold up on the street..Seems like racing would be harder on parts than street use...but,then again,I've seen some pretty rough streets!!!
Thanks...Stan

 

The suspension on all oval cars are TUFF, Big Ball joints, Big wheel bearings, heavy duty dropped spindles, tuff steering,

would work well on the street.

Most IMCA mods use midsized GM Front clips, so both lower A-arms are equal length, you would just have to install equal length upper a-arms for the left and right turns,,,most oval cars have the left upper a-arm longer than the right upper a-arm,,just buy one arm to match either the left or right and install it. It just bolts in and they are about $40 new and about $10 used.

MOST full tubular chassis builders offer ROAD RACE conversions for their front frame clips,,just call the builder,,, OR just make the right and left a-arms the same length, they sell racing a-arms for $40 in any length.

see UB MACHINE for chassis stuff CHEAP

http://www.ubmachine.com/

But here is a ROAD RACE pickup truck ready for the street turn key!


http://www.racingjunk.com/category/85/Other/post/1733456/PRO-TRUCK.html

Used OVAL race cars are DIRRT CHEAP, and make great donor cars for hot rod projects

 

Perimiter road race stock car,,,you can likly get it for less than a couple grand

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/...eter-frame-Super-late-GTA-road-race-car-.html

 

more deals

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/77/NASCAR_ARCA_ASA_HOOTERS/post/1744291/pro-cup-chassis.html

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/77/NASCAR_ARCA_ASA_HOOTERS/post/1725798/pro-cup-chassis.html

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/77/NASCAR_ARCA_ASA_HOOTERS/post/1800580/Chassis.html

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/...ERS/post/1735345/ISCARS-Goodies-Dash-Car.html

Petty road race car

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/...217/Richard-Petty-Motorsports-Racecar-45.html

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/...1650/105-Ford-Fusion-RHE-Chassis-4500.00.html

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/...ERS/post/1818487/ARCA-TRUCK-02-PATE-HOWE.html

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/...OTERS/post/1813794/110-quot-Hendrick-car.html

 

These OVAL track chassis cars would be great to put a 1950's body on it,,,

Buy a rolling chassis, then install your 1950's dodge or GM or Ford body oover it,,,SWEET.


http://www.racingjunk.com/category/...ASCAR-NATIONWIDE-OR-CUP-COT-CHASSIS-NEW-.html

 

COT frame:http://www.racingjunk.com/category/7...SSIS-NEW-.html
34 Coupe body:http://www.racingjunk.com/category/7...ord-coupe.html

Tricknology: The 34 body looks like one from an older class that used "wide-bodied" fiberglass coupes and coaches mounted on late model frames. If thats the case, you could drop that body over a used frame, and have a streetrod kit. Unfortunately, I want to BUILD rather than ASSEMBLE!

Turbo26T: My frame is starting to look like a T-bucket type, kickups front and rear, with a crossmember similar to COT to mount rack and lower inner arm attachment points. I don't know who would make DOT approved wide-five wheels either....

Radford46: Tell me more about your avatar....

I scored a super late type ebay steering rack last night, which will radically simplify front end design vs the Chevette rack. Much easier to clone Port City or GRT crossmember with steering pivots online with arm joints.

Lenny

 

At $20.00 this is a buy even a cheap-assed ex-yankee like myself would find hard to refuse.

 

The look I'd be after is a "wide five " type ...I know Wilwood makes all the hubs,rotors,etc..I guess then the only "iffy" thing is non-DOT wheels...Just trying to think through all the pitfalls...and trying to learn all the right stuff to look for..Man, that Racin'Junk site will absorb tons of hrs. droolin' &daydreaming...but ,that seems the way to get the most bang for yer buck..buy it used &complete
So , a used road race ,perimeter frame or asphalt super late model is what I want??
Then change control arms as needed...?? What about spindles/spindle angles??....or am I overthinking this whole project...

I'm thinking a late 30's early 40's coupe body draped over modified type chassis,quickie,full rollcage,seats, etc...


I'm here in the middle of NASCAR country ,so used stuff should be all around me..

Thanks for the input
Just want to get started in the right direction
Stan

 

For the street I'd make real sure the frame is not an offset frame set up for turning left and that the control arms are the same on both sides as well. Not all are. My Laughlin chassis that we used for the circle track Pro-stock was an offset chassis. left side of the frame was 3 sections of 2x3 tubing welded together side by side and the right side was 1 single section of 2x3 tubing. Rollcage was offset to the left side with way more reinforcing bars on the left than on the right. Right lower control arm was longer than the left to give the car positive camber on the right side only. Some rear axle housings are even offset and all this stuff will not work for a car being built to turn right as well as left. Point is do your homework on the chassis you're looking at before laying out the cash.

 

Yo girls, this is like a weekend project. Simple start with a purchase one of those weld up Mustang 2 IFS front cross members, 3-10' lengths of 2" x 4' x .125 rectangular tubing. Put two sections of tubing parallel to each other about 36" apart and about 6" off the ground, Determine the wheel base that you want by positioning your body on the tubing and locating the rear center line in the wheel openings. From the determined rear axle center line, measure forward the wheel base distance that you want your car to be and position the front cross member on center at that point and then space it so the center line of the spindles is 13"+/- off the ground when the lower control arm would be parallel to the ground.

Now measure back to the firewall of the car. Since the front cross member is higher than the tubing, you are going to cut the tubing to make a kick up equal to the height of the front cross member. You can now cut a piece for an angular pitch to connect the raised front section of tubing to the lower section of tubing. Like Zing the frame at the front. Now go to the rear of the car and measure about 10" from the center line forward, cut the rail at this point and Z the rear section of the rail about 1 1/2 times taller than the front section of the frame was Z'd and extend the tubing rear ward to the end of the body or drop Z the frame in the back to lower the tubing. Take the remaining tubing and make a rear cross member. You can then get some smaller square or 1 3/4 round tubing and make your cross members. Overlap gusset all the frame junction points. Now this is just a quick how to scenario but you can make the frame as wide or narrow as you want, you can pinch the nose to narrow it and leave the driver compartment wider. I dont think there is $700 of materials to purchase and it can be built on the floor in a one stall garage.

You can install the rear end of your choice and in the front end you can purchase a number of tubular control arms that are based upon mustang design and use stock mustang spindles or stock car spindle cast offs. The only issue with stock car items is that they are usually solid bushed so they have to be constantly lubricated and pass on a lot of road shock. You use a stock mustang rack so that is not an expensive issue either. Good luck and have fun.

 

Dick : Thanks a ton for your reply...There's some killer frame info in there...'preciate it!!