#@%*August 2013 Banger Meet #$^&

It makes the mechanical brakes much better. Google Flathead Ted. I believe there is even something on YouTube.
Todd


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Thanks, I was going to use a Flathead Ted kit. I was just hoping to save the drum.

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

At the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion, in the week and weekend before this last one, we generally had a good showing. I say generally, in that I had an RPM limiting problem with my highly modified Model B OVH conversion. I didn't want to dig into the problem (it was like a rev limiter), as, despite the problem, I still set the fastest lap. There were three other cars, a Blue 1939 BMW Special, a 1930 Frazer-Nash and a BMW 328 Roadster that were just as fast. In our qualifying race, though I started on the pole, all three pulled ahead of me at the start. However, I passed each of them and finished first. I still had a limit to my engine speed. Normally I can rev the engine a little over five grand (don't try that at home). I couldn't sustain much over 4000 RPM.

Saturday afternoon, at the start of our group's main event, I was still on the pole. As we started, I was side by side with the BMW Special. Once again, I could not sustain a high enough RPM. The Blue BMW went into the first turn in first place (see the first video clip). He led the first lap, or so. I then went past him (at some of the same places that I've previously made passes). (see the video clips shot with my wife's cell phone). After having him follow me around, I decided to put some distance between us. At the higher RPM, the engine began to crackle a bit. I was content to stay comfortably in the lead, not revving the engine high. I stayed ahead by going through the turns faster. I went past the starter's stand, receiving the white flag, indicating that I was going into the last lap. As I pitched the car into the second turn, the engine quit, absolutely. That was it!

In the aftermath, I found the connector, at the distributor of the ignition, on the lead from the coil to the distributor, had been arching and "fried". Had I thought about, it, with "twenty-twenty hindsight", I could have taken the connector off the distributor; and slathered it with dielectric grease. But, the engine was running. I didn't want to chance "screwing it up". I guess I found what was limiting my engine speed. Oh well,,,,At least I didn't run out of fuel! In this type racing there are no awards for finishing first (except for bragging rights). The real payoff, for the whole week, was when they towed my car, with me in it, up to the "corkscrew" and let me coast down to the paddock area; without the noise of the engine, I could hear all the cheers, yells and applause of the folks. At the awards ceremony, wonder-of-wonders! I was awarded the Rolex Cup for performance in our Group. http://db.tt/YJGX3bKe
http://db.tt/PQXjajuM
http://db.tt/wGL2E3MU
http://db.tt/sO7SIwEq

http://db.tt/nGYbe39S
http://db.tt/guDD6ZdH (have patience with this last one...I think my wife might have put her cell phone in her purse)
​

 

The guy in the Blue BMW just posted a neat video on YouTube. If you listen closely, you can hear the "crackle" of my souring engine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiOBzDcK6uQ&feature=c4-overview&list=UUwCqF1cAp-CSUkT23vr6yLA

 

So you won, and he got the trophy. Oh well, looks like you were haveing fun!

 

Floater kit made by Ted Spain, works on all mechanical Ford brakes 1928 to 35 . Best with cast iron drums, you can buy aftermarket drums for Model As or replace the complete front end with a 33-34 , or even use 35 brakes.....

http://www.flatheadted.com/
http://www.flatheadted.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=1&Itemid=54

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EjRe411l3M

 

As 97 says it is a kit to improve mechanical brakes .I have recently gone right through my brakes they now work as well as juice brakes if not better . I have also installed a overdrive and quick change as part of the update that will resault in the installation of a Rutherford overhead . I now feel I will have the brakes to stop and the gearing flexable enough to enable me to use this as a street car. the motor itself is undergoing extensive (expensive) work as I try to make it reliable but its all fun I have driven this thing for 40 years and still enjoy it I hope it willalways need little improvements HaHa this is what this hobbie is all about.

 

I agree with the others I tried the Ted kit but you really need the drums as well I managed to get a set into a shipment from the US, about $200 the set, otherwise it is $200 each locally. you need a heavy duty press to refit the studs. My brakes passed the brake test with flying colours for my RWC. I do have a bit of a pull when first applied but once on stop as good as a modern car, and mine is an AR with all the extra AR brake bits. Its a pity we cant get sea mail from the US anymore.
Brendan

 

Also you cant get the studs to suit the steel drums, you need to machine the cast iron size studs down to fit.

 

Old Dawg,
Great job. Thanks for posting the videos.
My dad use to race at the Monterrey historics back in the 80's. Many great childhood memories around that track. We use to camp in the pits in our motor home. One year when Mercedes was the marque, they sponsored a bbq dinner at the track on the Friday befor the races. The factory brought several cars from the museum in Stuttgart. Because Pop raced a Mercedes, we were invited. During the Cocktail hour, Phil Hill got into a w196 and ran hot laps around the track all by his self. The sound of that car at speed in that quiet valley was a symphony of exhaust noise. It is a sound I will never forget.



.

 

Actually, he won...I got the trophy.

At Monterey, and most of the vintage races, it's not winning; it's how you drive. I was given the Rolex Trophy of Excellence for our group. I was dumbfounded. I'll attach pix as they come in. It really is a time of a lifetime. I've been running this car at Monterey, as well as other venues, for 12 years.

This one I received at Sonoma:

And this is what I got at Monterey:

 

Old Dawg, sounds like a ton of fun. Congrats.

I pulled the engine out of my A today and before I start taking things apart I figured I'd check here. Do the clutch and flywheel come off as one piece?

 

subscribed

 

No, you have to take the pressure plate off of the flywheel to get the flywheel off of the crankshaft.


.

 

Ok thanks.

 

anyone running duel Thomas intake with lake headers?...or just the duels...send me a few pictures of the throttle linkage set up....

cheers

Joe

 

Craz

You forgot ...... they will come off in one piece but you have to break the crank in the right place

 

Like this:

 

No closer to the flywheel

You could get the flywheel and clutch off in this case but you would have to remove the pan and main cap.

Before someone pops up ....... the flywheel will also come off with the clutch if you break the flywheel bolts. The happens...... a Stutz Blackhawk had that happen racing a few years ago......... The whole mess exited the car straight up taking out the dash but, thankfully, hurting no one.

 

Bluto I never use the stock flywheel bolts always update them losing a flywheel is a lot more common than you may think in fact when you build a old motor like these it pays to upgade the bolts where ever possible.

 

Did somebody start the September Banger meet? I searched and could not find it.

 

CDO must be taking a break. Here is the September Banger meet http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=9198026#post9198026

 

Is there any issues using the BB bell housing that I need to know? Gathering parts for the T5 Conversion.