Technical ***August 2025 Banger Meet Thread - Yes, Already***

I’ve got both a Best 509 and 573 head gasket. The 573 was sent with my D4B Head by Dan Price(Dan 4Banger). The only difference I can see is that the 573 has the steam holes. The fire rings appear identical. I would think the 537 could be used with no problem caused by the steam holes not being used.
Oddly enough the head does not have steam holes. The photos show the 537 overlaying the 509.

 

Hello Banger Guys! Long time no speak. I hope everyone here is well and is having a great summer. I have been missing the HAMB and am going to try to log in more often. Nothing new going on in Cheyoming. My coupe has been running and the new grandbaby loves going for a spin in it.

 

@Binger Welcome Back and congratulations on the grandbaby....
just thinking about you...headed to Badger Raceway for the Dirt Drags and will be going thru Cheyanne on the 29th....I'll give you a shout out

 

I saw that other thread. We had a great time when we went the last 2 years. The Black Hills are a lot of fun too. I work the 29th but Depending on when you come through I can make arrangements to be available. Are you planning on coming back through Cheyenne? I have also been considering going to the drags but am not sure.

 

Quick question if I may.
I’m putting together a motor for a friend that has the Roof 101 head.
We’re looking at ignition timing. Wonder if anyone has any timing figures for that head.
Reason for asking, this one is liking 45° of advance.
Thanks. Pete.

 

I know Shaun, at FSI, and I had a discussion about timing on the OHV conversions.
My Miller OHV like at least 40 degrees of initial advance
I also have talked with Steve Serr and his head likes crazy amounts of advance too
this said...I have just been timing mine, using the **** dyno and what I call 'calibration hill' which is a 4% climb to 7100' elevation....and don't ever but a timing light on it....I have many many miles and no problems as a result of such advanced timing....
compression ratios are under 6.5:1 for another consideration
and I probably shouldn't state it this way....don't be retarded....
let us know

 

That's the same number that came up a couple days ago when talking about other OHV Bangers and where they made their best power.

 

I have been hearing that this is a good time...Ken Long and his boy Hudson will be there maybe later Saturday..We will be coming back thru Cheyenne on Monday, gotta take one of the boys back to Ft. Collins, CO.

 

Thank you both for the replies.
The motor is supercharged too, which complicates things somewhat. But we’re still getting max power at 44° even with boost. Crazy amount of advance.
With the static cr and boost we’re around 11.7:1 cr.

Thank you, we know we’re in the ball park now.

 

This is the engine on the dyno.
This is the engine before we replaced the distributor with an ecu.


It’s a B block with a Burtz 5 bearing crank fitted.


Thanks again.
Pete.

 

What a piece of machinery!
Did you guys make the girdle? Sump?

 

We had the girdle water jet cut and faced by a local company, I then machined all the holes, oil ways etc and then another local company did the align boring.

The sump is a Yapp one that I cut down and welded on a new mounting flange.

 

Nice work mate, how does the Firth compare tho the Wade on the last one?

 

Beautiful banger ****....
and great work....you take it to the next level
I quired Firth supercharger and got a map with all the EV charging stations in the area the interweb thinks my computer is in....still curious about it as a result of my adulterated search bearing no worthy results

 

Good question. They both give around 10 psi of boost, the Wade just under and the Firth just over, but not enough to make much of a difference.
The Wade requires a manifold, which then makes it taller and because of twin rotors, it’s wider. But it’s quiet. It also max,s out at 5k rpm.
The Firth was designed to bolt up to the head, no manifold. It only adds 2.5 inches to the height of the carbs. It can be over driven too, although not sure it’ll make any more boost. But it’s noisy. The blades rattle at low rpm. And you have to add oil to the fuel to lubricate the blades.

Of the two, I’d go for the Firth. The simple and slim design makes the whole package really pleasing to the eye. And 10 psi is plenty for these old engines.

 

Always good to know where all the charging stations that you’ll never use are!

Look up Rob Firth on Facebook. He’s the chap that made it for me.

 

That is awesome I haven seen Ken for a while. He comes down to Cheyoming for guard drill and stops by occasionally. I am off all day Monday and that might work out better for a visit. Keep me informed.

 

Nutrocker, do you have rules that require an OEM block? Wondering why the girdle instead of a Burtz block.

 

Yes. The OEM block allows it to run in Vintage cl***. The Burtz block goes in Late model engine cl***.

 

Testing oil pumps for Rotoshim. All the way to Denmark…

 

Welcome back, good to see an old face. There are a few prodigals coming back

 

Hey all banger guys.

I have a question. I have model B engine with dual stromberg 81s, milled head (about 5.3:1) home made intake/headers on my model T ( https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/t-a-b-project.1315428/ ) The engine is otherwise stock, had a "hillbilly rebuilt" done (honed cylinders, oversize piston rings fitted, valves lapped).

Somehow it seems that the engine runs better on high rpms exhaust running through the muffler than with open headers. With open headers it seems to have some unburned gas popping in headers. Of course the muffler will reduce that noise, but it still feels like it also runs better with closed headers.
I have stock cam, valve and valve springs. Stock cam has only 16deg overlap, so i do not think it requires any back pressure in exhaust. Could it be that those pretty weak stock valve springs ain't closing exhaust valve quick enough, causing overlap increase? Do you have any experience like this?

 

No I don't have any experience like this...
I can only speculate.... but looking at your intake, it appears to be a plenum instead of runners with a cross over tube....I don't know what it looks like inside, if you have baffling or restrictor plate....it just could be that with the open header, and a less restricted exhaust flow, the intake suffers with fuel delivery...again, my speculation
I know...faster is more fun

 

@Old Dawg ...is it me or is he MIA

 

This will be my first time doing pistons and rings on a Banger! I picked up an early B that was stuck due to a seized ring. There's been no damage to the walls, and there still seems to be some cross hatching still on the bore, I'll do a few p***es with the dingle ball honer to clean it all up.

Do you guys have any tips/tricks for doing ring gap on these old engines?

 

@Retson the Racer I had an older friend that would turn down a chunk of pvc to a slip fit and use that to square the rings up, That's all I got...

 

The ring gap guidance kind of depends on other factors like what you are doing with things like compression ratio and carburation....the more heat you build, the more ring gap required, in my experience. Ring gap charts are available with some ring sets but availability varies. From the Bertz builders guide:
"We recommend that you follow the dimensional specifications from
your parts suppliers or engine builder. If specifications are not available,
then use these recommendations.
Upper ring gap 0.013 to 0.020 inch
Middle ring gap 0.012 - 0.020 inch
Lower ring gap 0.010 - 0.020 inch
Piston to cylinder wall clearance measured at the bottom of the piston
and at 90 degrees to the wristpin 0.004-0.0045 inch if using solid skirt
cast pistons, 0.002-0.003 inch if using split skirt cast pistons, 0.007-
0.008 inch if using forged pistons."
This said....I had a situation where I was running wide open throttle, into a headwind for several hundred miles.
A ring gap of 0.018" scored the cylinders 2&3..that run leaner than 1&4.....
I had all bores 0.010" oversized and gapped rings at 0.023"....the recent removal of the head verified that the cylinder walls are happy and there is no oil wash on the piston tops after about 12k miles.
The old adage goes " too little gap, everybody knows, too big a gap, nobody knows"
maybe check the existing ring gap on the one you dis***embled and see what it was
I just use a piston, turned upside down, to square the ring in the bore..
Good luck

 

As an guy who has been a dyno tester for a long time one thing you do NOT want is too tight on ring gap. Leave 'em on the loose side. Consider cylinder wall taper as well. Loose will always survive, too tight can even ****ter to the point of flying cylinder block parts. Real scary actually.

 

Haven't seen him post in a while, his profile said he was last here on 1 Aug....

 

hope this works
a drive thru the White Sands National Park NM
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/NbcXNV9jQI4?feature=share