Here are some vids! The carb sprays fuel! lol http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbLZ-p3DFZw Took it for a spin. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVyTj6TkIXU Putting it away. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSXjAbaVcPQ
There is a lot of difference between agricultural ribbed tires and dirt track ribbed tires. I wouldn't advise anyone to run the agricultural tires on the street or in the dirt.
Hey A-Wall, I just love that truck - keep up the great work! I decided to go w/ just 1 downdraft carb on the '29 Coupe, and picked up a scalded dog intake. I had a couple of 94s that I rebuilt and bolted one of them on (a 7RT model). I used the linkage arm that came with my old burns dual intake (I tucked that away for the future). It runs great but I can't get the idle down low enough. It's been so hot here I haven't had much time to play around with it. Here are some pics:
Well I drove this "THING" for the first time last week. The first Nut&Bolt were put together last March and it's been a spare time project like all of them. I tried to make everything as good as New or better without doing any Fab work. I made an exception on the Master Cyl. mount. It now has Hyd brakes. So over all it runs Dynomite as it should being the Motor builder holds a Few Vintage Banger land speed records. So off down the Hwy I went just to learn the Gear box is really loud in 2nd Gear, not to bad in 3rd. The steering is ****. I stayed with a model A box but it's "rebuilt", ya right. Actually it feels locked up so I'll most likely go to a different one of some later Ford style. Had it apart twice and cant see what's wrong so I'll s**** it for a better Generation. Not in LOVE with it yet but having some Fun in spite of the small issues. I have named it "The Loaner Car" since most of my Friends have loaned me many pieces to get it to this point. I hope the coming weeks turn me into a better A fan as I work the Bugs out. As of today the Jury is still out. The Wizzard
thanks T.W! did you do any jetting or anything with the carb to get it to run on the banger? are you running a fuel pump? any performance mods to the motor? i just picked up a 94 and started cleaning it. i was planning on making my own intake but just keeping it simple, any tips would be great!
No other mods yet, but I do have a First Street Ignitions distributor (pertronix electronic ignition) that I plan to install next. All I did was rebuild the carb. No different jets (maybe I need to consider that) just a stock rebuild kit. There is still some "drop" between the tank and inlet to the carb so I think I'll be OK w/o a pump. Many have told me I should be OK running one 94 or one 97, so I'm hoping to get it idling down to normal. I'm planning to put one of those new Strombergs on eventually (in a month or two). Tom
I've got a scalded dog on my A and it will run with one 94 or 97 but it will never get the 2 1/2 lbs of pressure it needs to perform without a fuel pump and a pressure regulator. Believe me I tried everything, jetting up and jetting down but couldn't get above 35mph without it cutting out like it was starved for gas. When I put the fuel pump on and pressure regulator the problem was solved. There's a thread on here somewhere that talks about how many feet of line and drop you need to achieve 2 1/2 lbs of pressure, and it was crazy numbers.
Ok I had a busy day today and got preoccupied to where I was unable to fire my banger. But I did score a 1929 model a hydraulic braked rearend today. So I made progress towards my next build lol. This rearend is kinda interesting in that it has the wheel cylinders at the top like my other hydraulic rearend but they lopped off the stock shock mount balls. Heres some pictures also of the Felpro model A head gasket I said I would post pics of. Nothing some of you have never seen before but I would imagine there are some guys and gals who appreciate this little bit of help. FELPRO number F7013 add a C to the end for autoparts stores. F7013C.-Weeks
Been busy this last week or so swapping the engines over from the Touring to the Tudor, as the engine from the latter is going to get a new cam, head, and some porting work. Also gonna be swapping the stock clutch out for that from a V8.
Every car is a little different but I am running a single Holley 94 with jets drilled out to the #55 size. I originally bought a NOS 6v Autopulse pump to put on this car but never installed it because a local oldtimer told me I didn't need to. The car seens to run fine. I typically run 45-50 MPH and have had it a little over 55mph on occasion.
Yup, I know about using the Chevrolet head on a Ford and/or a '23 Olds 3 port (wish I could find one), but RichFox's and noboD's posts on Dodge Fast Four aftermarket heads got me thinkin'!
Hey Weeks - I never actually put the Burns on. I am having trouble getting one 94 to idle down properly. I have a second 94 that I rebuilt and may swap it out just to see if that one works better. Might have to play w/ jets, etc... and still need to drive it to see how it does over 25 or 30 MPH. Getting tired of these 110 degree days
What rear brakes are those? I just picked up a 40 Ford rear end complete on the weekend with torque tube etc. Still trying to decide wether to use the 40 rear or just bolt the brakes to the A rear. I have 2 40 Ford rear ends at the moment as well as the original A.
46-48 Ford rear brakes with the e-brake still functional is what both of mine have. You can use the brakes off the 40 ford rearend. They are a direct bolt on. You have to clearance the spring perch if you leave the wheel cylinder on top though. Alot of guys will rotate the backing plate to a 15 degree angle away from the perch or flip the backing plates completely unside down and have the wheel cylinders at the very bottom of the rearend. We discussed these conversions a few months back on the banger thread. Not sure if it was july or june thread. If you do the 15 degree angle you have to redrilled the backing plate mounting holes to fit the rearend. I almost forgot if you run stock 21s or 19s you have to knock the weights off the drums to make the wheels sit flush on the drum. PM me if you want to know my technique for getting the weights off.-Weeks
I did see that article I think, I was thinking of clearancing where the spring mount goes. Is there any machining involved in hub/backing plate? I seem to remember reading about something with regard to clearances. I'm using 16" Wires from a 35 will I have the same problem with the weights? Thanks, Alex
Weeks46, I was going to reuse my copper head gasket. Will it work? Thanks for the Fel Pro part #, it may be better way to go.
I didn't reuse mine. Didn't want to take any chances even tho it was only put on a couple before I bought the the motor and ch***is.
Re using solid copper gaskets is pretty common. We do it with the race cars a lot. Often times we'll use a propane torch to anneal them. The important thing is if you used any sealer on it be sure to get it all cleaned off first. The Wizzard
Restorer I have been helping says do not ever reuse a head gasket unless you are just putting the same head back onto the same block. The head and block have different seating surfaces and once they imprint into the gasket they are set for good, if you resurface a head or put a different head onto the block he said expect to be putting a new head gasket on or leak water someplace across the gasket surfaces. Now this is just a fella who has been doing restorations for 20+ years with a long list of customers. This is where my information comes from so if it was myself it would get a new head gasket.-Weeks
No machining on the rear brakes but on the fronts depending on what route you go there is work involved. The rears are a direct bolt on to the model a rear tubes. No machining unless somethings bent or worn. later model wheels will work fine, its just when you run stock 21s (1928-29) or 19s (1930-31) the wheel the way it centers on the rim to drum there is not enough room for the wheel to sit flush with the wieghs still attached. So you knock them off. For front brakes I found 1946-48 spindles and backing plates. Mine are the square spindles. Alot of guys prefer the round spindles which are earlier, but there is no difference they bolt up also. You can directly bolt the spindles to a model a front axle still. If you need pictures I can take some of my set-up.-Weeks
Hey, Guys. I'm going to bring my sedan home soon and I'd like to hear a few tips for taking a long trip in you banger powered ride. My sedan is dead stock, I've driven it for a total of 40 min on three seperate occations. I know I need to get a real radiator cap, (not an old gas cap) and make an air filter of some sort. Before I bought it the PO changed the oil and cleaned up the generator connections, so I know its charging ok. Tha trip will be on a sunday morning/early afternoon taking back roads for about 90 miles, from my storage spot to my house. I hope it doesn't rain cuz I aint got a roof. What else should I do to prep for this 2-3 hour trip? Driving technique? So far it runs the best with the advance lever completly down and about a half turn out from closed on the idle mixture knob. or should I just **** it up and tow it??? Thanks Jeff
Been driving mine around the farm roads in south Louisiana as much as I can - gotta get inspected and tagged before any longer adventures can happen. Regarding the fuel pump question: From advice gathered here, I'm running an early 80's Honda electric fuel pump with no regulator to my two 94's. Specs are in the 2.0-3.0 psi range. Search prior banger meets for more info. No flooding, runs fine. The motor still needs tuning at this point and I'm no expert, but it seems good to go.
Uhh, this is wrong. You do have to machine the rear backing plates 1/8" and the inner lip of the drums 1/8" or they will bind up when you tighten the hub. Ask me how I know. I have heard of guys using shims so you do not have to maching the backing plates/drums...but that seems pretty hokus-pokus to me.
Shims work I know thats how mine are right now. So I'm not wrong sorry I left that out but stock model A's have the shims also for clearance from backing plate to drum. I have seen them made of br*** and stainless. When I tore my rearend down to clean up/regasket there were br*** shims. Now it has stainless shims. No machining Chris and direct bolt-on. No voodoo hokus pokus witchdoctor stuff here. I researched before I put the set-up back together along with finding it in the first place instead of using a later model rearend to get juice brakes.-Weeks Here you go hokus pokus mythbusted Chris. http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/171
If those shims work thats the way I'll go. I have the adapters that vintage ford and speedway sell for the front A spindles. I know I have to redrill the backing plates for the front.
Actually, the 1/8" is machined from the rear axle housing flange that the backing plate bolts to, not the backing plate. If you are just putting around on the street shims work well but if you put much stress on the rear end they will beat out and allow movement which will lead to shearing a key. This might not happen if you have lapped the drum to the axle. I lap mine and tighten the axle nuts to 200 lbs. I also use heat treated keys. The shims were designed to compensate for wear and prolong the life of the axle and drum. If the axle/ drum is worn that much the surface will be uneven and the shims will still have the highs and lows caused by the loose hub, They are fine for a beater.
Drive it, just take it steady, might me worth checking the timing before you start out and keep an eye on the oil and water levels during the trip. http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/timing.htm Good luck!
Hotrodjeep...take a condensor, a few basic tools, water, oil, fuel can, bit of emery cloth for cleaning points and plugs etc, your cell phone and the number of someone with a trailer, just in case! Last but not least, take a camera. We want a full report of your road trip when you get back! Sounds like it'll be a real hoot.
The Jalopy Journal
