Projects Austin Somerset Gasser Build (DragNasty)

Understood. The Austin actually has an inner skin that starts on the quarters and lines the entire trunk area. There is actually an air space of as much as 3" between it and the outer metal. The deck lid is the same way. Not sure why they did it (strength maybe).

In fact, the entire car is manufactured that way...something that in other areas has been a real pain in the backside. We have been beating and banging on this body for nearly two years and we still have fine dirt continuing to make an exodus from the car via these hidden spaces. We have had both blow gun and shop vac over, in and through every inch of it. None-the-less, just when we think there couldn't possibly be any more residual dirt left in this crazy little car, I get an eye full...and have to sweep the floor.

My reoccurring nightmare is the first time we really launch this little monster we are going to leave a trail behind us like a 150 mph dump truck dropping a load of top soil. LOL

 

LoL! Awesome stuff. That's cool that there are inner panels to protect it. I'd just hate to see pimples all over the butt! LoL!

 

I would sign up to be on the pit crew to get one of those shirts.

 

Well we actually made it out to the shop this afternoon. No real plans just piddling around and working off Christmas Dinner. Before we knew though, we were bending and fitting the front roll cage legs in the engine compartment.


Of course this is the second time around thanks to the blower audible.


When we put the blower on it forced us to move the alternator mounting point and then the dominos really began to fall. The original leg ended right under that alternator.


In retrospect it was for the best. The new mounting point for the cage is now much further forward on the chassis which along with a steeper angle to the firewall should make it much more effective. The plates on the firewall mount directly to the interior cage cross member.


At the bottom mount point there is an 8" tall welded stub that the leg slides over when in place. I will be drilling the roll bar in this area and pinning it in place. This will make it very strong but removable should we need.

 

Come on! You would think this is a project or some thing! Get your ass in gear and things done! I'm tired of waiting around to steal your ideas!

 

It's only Christmas. What's the problem.

 

After we had the front cage legs fit I tacked them in place to hold the correct angle. Then we removed the entire piece, welded it to the plate, sanded and painted them.

 

I did not want to tackle anything too crazy today but I had an idea for the dash. I have some really nice .050 brushed aluminum sheets so I made a very nice poster board template of the entire dash area below. I decided I would remove the passenger side glove box and just make a nice flat dash that fit the contours.


But after seeing the flat poster board in place, it really did not inspire me. I had the original dash center piece so I dug it out for a look. This is what the dash looked like originally:


...And don't forget I already have Cessna artificial horizon gauge in the driver's glove box door. If I had went with a solid dash insert I would have to remount it.



But as you can see, the center section was pretty rough.



I toyed around with filling all the individual holes but there were so many that it seemed easier to just cut all of them out and start fresh. Plus all that welding would make it fun to cut holes later for the gauges etc.


So I carefully drew a large rectangle around them all and plasma cut the center of the old dash out.


Then I traced the piece I cut out and plasma cut a perfect patch. I clamped it together and spot welded it in place.


After welding it all up, I ground it down smooth and played around with the layout for the gauges. Thanks to Santa, I have five new AutoMeter 2 5/8 gauges to find a new home for...Boost, Oil Pressure, Water Temperature, Voltage and Fuel.




This is what I came up with... Afterwards, I dropped a bit of body filler on the face of the dash, sanded it down and painted it. But you will have to wait until tomorrow to see the finished product, I have one more thing to do it (and you are going to love it)!

 

You mean Santa MaMa. Looks good.

 

Chute came in today!


Now here is funny story about the last parachute I bought. It was for the Pulp Friction Model "A" (last project). Anyway, I bought a vintage chute for fun...really just for looks but I saw no reason why it shouldn't work. But I had never packed a chute before. We were headed to the HAMB DRAGS in a few months and I thought it might be fun, even though we were only doing 120 mph or so through the quarter, to pop it on the last run and get it on video. So I had to learn how to pack it correctly (I mean I wouldn't want to pull the chute and have it just drag behind the car in a tangled up mess). Sooooo.... I attached it to the Taurus and tested it in my drive way, several times. My neighbors must have thought I had finally lost my mind. LOL

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10200533820086879

 

Now that is funny!

 

LOL! Sounds like fun. Why i don't have such neighbors?

 

That must be one helluva long driveway.

 

Final finish on the main dash from earlier post...see I told you it was going to be cool. Both glove compartment doors are going to get the same Engine Turn Silver treatment. I am pretty excited about how it "turned" out...pun intended.


While we were sitting around waiting for the paint to dry night before last, Dad had a really good idea. Since we still have the passenger side glove compartment, why not mount the fuse box inside it. That will make it stupid easy to access the fuses etc. Going back with the original dash etc is going to be a win, win!

 

See! Told you I wanted to steal your ideas! Glad I thought of this.

 

No sooner than I mention putting the fuse box in the glove compartment, the wiring harness shows up.

Now I have wired lots of project cars over the years and used to be a do it from scratch kind of guy. But let me just say, the last car I did "Pulp Friction Model A" a good friend shared the best kept secret in wiring. It is this little number above. It comes from JEGS and you won't find it on the first few pages if you are searching for a wiring harness. Those are reserved for the $500 - $800 Painless wiring kits. This little number which is perfect for a hot rod etc is only $250. Its part number is 555-10405 and it is plug and play for: Horn, Radio, Power Windows, Power Door Locks, Lights (Headlights, Taillights, Parking Lights, Dome Light, Brake Lights, 3rd Brake Light, Gauge Lights, Backup Lights, and License Plate Light, Turn Signals, Hazard Lights, and High-Beam Indicators, Windshield Wipers, A/C and Heater, Charging System, Ignition System/Coil/Starter, Neutral Safety Switch, Gauges (Fuel Level, Oil Pressure, Speedometer, Tachometer, Voltmeter, and Water Temperature), Electric Cooling Fan, Electric Fuel Pump, Cigarette Lighter.

This wiring harness kit also has optional connectors for common GM-style accessories, such as dimmer switch, hazards, and alternator. For vehicles that don't use GM accessories, simply omit the extra connectors during installation. The wiring instructions show how to make all connections for GM, Ford, and Chrysler vehicle. Plus the kit also inlcudes: Prewired Fuse Block with Fuses, Color-Coded and Labeled Wire, Horn Relay, Turn Signal and Hazard Flashers, Prewired Headlight Connectors, Two GM Ignition Switch Connectors, GM Alternator Connector, GM High-Beam Switch Connector, Fusible Link, Firewall Grommet, Cable Ties and Crimp Terminals.

Now I don't mean for this to be a sales pitch but when you find something that makes life as easy as this, the responsible thing to do is share it.

 

Well I am not sure what to call it. The first word that comes to mind is setback but to be honest with you, it feels more like relief. I am talking about my E85 Carbs. I mentioned earlier they were at my carb builder's shop getting some tweaks. In reality I was just hoping he would be able to tweak them.

As you know, I bought my carbs online and they were already converted for E85. Originally (think way back now) they were going a vintage tunnel ram but then came the blower and all that followed. I have been really worried about not having enough carburetor for the "huffer" since these were just 660s. My carb guy who is crazy good said it would all depend upon the quality and extent of the E85 conversion already done. But even then, I was probably right on the apex of the fuel curve (if you know what I mean)!

When he walked into my shop this morning I could see on his face it was not good news. We sat and went over all things that were wrong with the current carbs (for this application) and what it would take to rectify it. Which in the whole scheme of things when complete, I would still just have a couple of 660s. What I decided was to simply let him do what he does best and that is build me a couple of killer E85 750 Double Pumpers. So it will set me back a few weeks but I have plenty of other things to do. It goes with out saying, it will set me back a few bucks but I look at that more like insurance, especially wide open on the top end (if you know what I mean again)!!

 

Wow! I am pretty excited this morning. I just left a shop that is literally around the corner from where I work and they have a Chassis Dyno. I have been around these parts my whole life and had no idea they were there let alone equipped with a Dyno! Anyway I went to investigate this morning and had a great conversation with them. I showed them photos of the Austin build and they are totally into it (even though they are not known for hot rods etc.) They said when I am ready I can tune the car on their Dyno for $75 per hour and they would help. I am really pumped now! That will make life so much easier than trying to dial it in on the street.

 

Since we have some time with the carb change over I made another decision this afternoon that I have been considering since the "Blower" Audible and that is the MSD "Flying Magnet" Crank Timing kit. My carb guy mentioned it, the guys that are going to help tune it mentioned it so I finally pulled the trigger on it (pun intended) and it will be here first of the week.

The reason I have been reluctant to do it is the craziness it is going to cause with belt routing. If this was strictly a race car with electric water pump and no alternator it would have been a "no brainer". I will take some good photos and document this new little toy's installation next week.

 

I'm thinking of going E85 also. But decided to go with Predators. 930 cfm apiece.

 

DAMN what a lucky stiff!

 

That is some serious CFM! What are you feeding? I like Predators but there are several vintage races out there that will not allow them (in fact they call them out by name). But great carbs.

 

500 Cad. But if I run E85 have to send them in. Not sure yet on the fuel yet. Better make up my mind soon, before I start building the engine.

 

Screw the vintage guys! They are vintage. Kendig got his patent in the early or mid 50's. They were called Kendig's in the late 60's.

 

Get a couple of them and blow people's minds! Heck, even a Predator and get some ribbed side plates for it that look like the Kendig's and stick on it.
Just make sure and have some vintage paperwork in the glove box to slap them with. LoL!
Looks like they weren't built till the late 60's from what I can find tho.

 

We built the rear cross over roll cage legs today and installed them. It was a nice fit. They bolt directly to the heavy rear crossmember that is also the upper shock mount point.



Then I spent the afternoon doing my best contortionist imitation in the cab finishing up all the cage welding.

 

What a crazy day in the shop. I decided to spend this weekend tying up loose ends in the body work arena (my favorite place)! For the most part I have been procrastinating the final fab work on the drivers door and surrounds, mainly because it is tedious.



It would include the "B" piller post and the area where the signal lights used to extend between the doors. So this morning I tried to be focused and centered. I tried my very best to channel some great body man from the past...it lasted about 2 hours. But that is a record for me!



Things were good until I decided we had to do something with the lower door hinge. It had worn out its bushings leaving a lot if play in the door swing and closure department. Not surprisingly we could not get the 65 year old bolts out of the hinges. But we had to address the issue so I drilled them out and removed the door. I figured we could always just weld them back. However after removing them I found the were aluminum. That is where the story really begins. However I won't bore you with details nor the 6 hours worth profanity that at this moment stills hangs about the rafters of the shop. Suffice to say the door is back on and shuts the way it should.

 

Just got my approval email from the Meltdown Drags...can't wait!

 

What's an approval?