Projects Austin Somerset Gasser Build (DragNasty)

Couldn't figure out my nuttieness? Everybody else did. Or do I have to speak like a "Rocket Scientist". I do know one. Ran and built rocket and jet cars in the '80's. Weird dude. Don't know if he's still alive.

 

All good points. But it's not a ECM controlled car. Just put the O2 in to see what was going on. But with "booze" it's a different ball game. And your formula says just what I said "Have a few more shots".

 

Like I said earlier. This is "Deuced Up"s build thread. No MORE arguemets on fuel issues! ONLY HELP!

 

Dude,what the flying fuck are you even talking about now?How bad do you really need attention?
Randall needed to know the proper air/fuel ratio,and James not only stepped up with that,but also a bunch more relevant information to help him get his head around the process.
The EFI stuff was just as a point of reference to help the OP process the info provided.

If you want drama,and you just can't help but be a trolling nut job,there's another website for that:
It's called yellowbullet.

Scott

 

Thanks Scott.

Roo

 

It's a given that you want to go rich when you step on the load pedal but you can go to rich and that wont be good just as going lean when you step on it.
You want to see the O2 sensor go rich and start to go to the lean side(not to the danger side of lean) as the RPM go up.
Or that is the way I would tune for. Thinking like a high speed bypass on a mechanical injection.

 

OKAY...just to reclaim my build thread here for a bit... This is where we are on e85/e70 etc.. I have learned a ton about e85 in the past few days. I have spoken to lots of pros on the issue and I have taken all of their advice (which was some times from opposite ends of the spectrum) and put together our plan of attach. One...to answer the e85/e70 AFR (air fuel ratio) question that started this little flurry, this is what I have. A standard wide band O2 sensor is reading fuel to oxygen ratio (it does not matter what fuel you are running but it does matter that it is calibrated to measure what ever oxygen part is present to 1 part fuel. That is very important. The Stoich number for gasoline is 14.64 to 1 (commonly rounded to 14.7 to 1). Just for simple definitions the Stoich number officially means how many molecules of each need to be present to cause a reaction. I like to simplify it by saying the number of little volatile pieces of each to go boom!

But here is the deal: For e85 the magic Stoich number is 9.85 (but not to 1, but rather to .670). So that is 9.85 to .670 and that is along way from 1 - basically 33 percent. So if you adjust the .670 to one you have to adjust the other side as well by 33 percent. SO on a gauge set up to read something to one, the actual adjusted number for e85 is actually 12.80 to 1 for normally aspirated and call it 11.8 or so adjusted for supercharged. For me doing the same math on e70 which has a Stoich number of 10.6975 to .7287, my sweet spot for naturally aspirated is 13.5 or so (adjusted to 12.5 running a supercharger). So that my friends is what we will be shooting for and maybe a bit south of it to keep it safe and fat when on boost. Make sense?

 

The good thing is you have a number to shot for so then you can sway and way or the other as you see fit.
Now get to work so we can see this bad boy put on a show at the H.A.M.B Drags.

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Just went the wrong way with my math on the AF ratio.

 

Actually the main issue we are fighting right now is heat. AND thanks James for all your advice off the thread etc., it is very much appreciated. Anyway we are over heating or at least "reportedly" we are over heating. Ever since the nose went back on we have noticed a difference in the car as far as heating up. But if you remember, at the very same moment we also changed the timing and tuned the carbs a bit as well. However, with that being said, the obvious culprit for us was the limitations the front sheet metal gave our air flow. So a few pages back, we customized the grill and punched some holes up front to try and help. But it didn't really. It seems to go to 200 degrees in a minute or so at idle. And at the track we noted by the time I hit the return road it was already 220 plus. We took good care of it at the track etc. but it really limited the number of runs we made.

So Saturday we took it back to the parking lot where I work. As noted previously, we installed the O2 etc. etc. But it is still getting crazy hot crazy fast. So after we let it cool down a bit, I grabbed the laser heat gun and we fired it again. Dad sat in the car calling out increasing temp numbers from the gauge. When he was at 220, the front of the head was only 198 and the aluminum thermostat cover was 200. As he kept calling out increasing numbers, like a bad Star Trek episode, I continued to watch the heat gun. He is about to have a cow in the car saying the needle is buried, its buried (250) and I am still watching the gun. The head was only 212 to 215 when I finally killed it. It never puked any water and honestly didn't sound hot at all (you would expect some ticking or something)...right?


Excuse the nasty pealing high dollar header tubes (don't even get me started)...but there she sets. The water temp sensor in the factory hole in the head. That has got to be the absolute hottest point on the entire engine. Right between the two center exhaust ports with the anodized adapter all but touching the header flange. I think we are getting some heat soaking here and it is effecting the read out.

So a couple of things planned for this week. One (not necessarily a water cooling issue) we are going to wrap the headers. Two things here. First off it will cover up the disasterous finish but more importantly it will cut out at least 50% of the heat in the engine compartment and that would be huge. While it was running and I had the heat gun, it was amazing how much convection was going on in there. So here is what I got to address some of it.

Two rolls of DEI Titanium wrap. This stuff is supposed to be pretty cool (no pun intended). The fibers are infused with lava rock dust...we shall see. Meanwhile, back to the water temp issue. I am going to wrap that sensor with some of the header wrap as well to make sure none of the heat soaking is coming from the outside. With all that in the works, I am still not happy with the pusher fan. If you remember, the "Blower Audible" caused us to hang a killer set of Derale dual fans on the wall. They were around 2,250 cfm each but NOT reversible etc. I searched for the most powerful pusher I could find and settled on a Flex-o-lite 16" fan boasting 2500 cfm. However I knew the first time I hit the switch there was no way it was pushing that much air. Last night I pulled it off and bench tested it right beside one of the 2250 cfm Derales (off the wall)....no comparison. I spoke with JEGS about it and they agreed to take the Flex-O-Light back and I have two nearly 13" Derale 2,000 cfm pusher fans on the way.


Finally after talking to the NGK tech guys in depth, I have decided to take their recommendation and bump up the plug to a 6 heat rating. We are also going to bump the timing a bit and see how she runs at 34 total. If it runs alright, we solve our heat issue and we can get the AFR adjusted back to our goal...we will be ready to finally step on it!

 

These little bastards are a SOB. My tired SBC is having heating issues in an A40. Just cant wait til I dump 500 worth of Cad in and see what happens.

 

If your timing is too slow on a blown engine it will also cause it to overheat and if it ain't puking antifreeze it's not too hot like your gauge says also you might check with your gauge manufacturer cause some of them calibrate their gauges to read from the front of the intake and if you put it in the head it will read wrong I had an issue like this with some vdo gauges a few years ago on a customer car also you might double check with the temp gun as to what the temp is right beside the sender in the head


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Does your intake have a bung in the water cross over? If it does, than put your sender there. I know it would probably be a bitch. Didn't look back into your thread at the manifold.

 

So last night I decided to take on the header wrap. You know I hate to say it but I am a bit of a perfectionist and nothing will cause flying tools in my shop quicker than something seemingly simple that I can not seem to get right. First off this high dollar crap will unravel like a cheap shirt at the drop of a hat. AND secondly, these little pieces of garbage are completely useless!


You can not tighten them. I must of spent half the night trying to figure out a way to actually pull them tight with out destroying them. I finally gave up and much to my chagrin put simple worm gear hose clamps at the beginning of the runners and a big one down on the collector. Honestly it does not look as bad as I thought it was going to.


But I went my own way when it came to the install. I figure if these idiots can't make a stainless zip tie that works they got no business writing the installation instructions! On the back three tubes I started at the head and worked to a point where they came in contact with another runner. Then I started at the collector and worked up securely embedding the loose ends from the individual runners. When I finally got to the point where the front runner broke away I simply finished wrapping it to the head. In the end, I really like the way it came out. It is very close to what I was hoping for... NOW lets hope they do your job as advertised!

 

We drained the royal purple break in oil last night so ready for real stuff. It was really clean so good news on that front. The fans are supposed to be here today so we have our plate full tonight. We are going pull the carbs down real quick just to double check the jet size (peace of mind). We are going to install the fans and wire them up. Change the plugs, Oil filter and Oil plus bump the timing a bit to around 34 or 35 total. I bought a Nomax wire loom heat shield so I am going to run the water sensor line through it all the way down to include the adapters in the head to ensure we have no external heat soaking. If we still get messed up gauge readings compared to watching the head with a heat gun, we may move it to the intake. If we do, I am going to put it in one of the rear cross over holes and then plumb the other hole back up front to water pump. I have heard that can relieve a bit of heat as well.

 

Well we got a lot done last night including oil and filter changed. After looking at lots of racing oil on the market I decided to go with a Brad Penn. So from Royal Purple break-in to the "green oil." I am kind of laughing at the fact that according to my color mix chart with the residual break-in still in there mixed with the new stuff, I should now have a rather normal colored oil.


I really debated hard on the plugs, probably way too much more than warranted. But I finally decided to go with the NGK expert's direction. I mean what is the point of asking an expert and then trying to second guess him. I nearly went with a step colder and a copper core etc. But anyway there they are...we shall see.


The new fans are on and tested. I would say conservatively we have more than doubled our cfm. That is the good news...here is the bad...at least for testing tomorrow tonight.


To error on the safe side, we decided to the take the secondaries off, remove the power valve, plug the hole and bump the jets ten steps. So boost referenced power valves on the primary with 86 jets and no power valve in the secondaries with 97s. I mean it starts and idles so good I figure why mess with primary side of things. At least not until if and when the O2 Sensors says we need it. Besides it will do its share of street cruising and boost referenced power valves will make that much smoother.

So I am off this morning (good luck) to try and run down 4 number 97 jets and two of the thin power valve block off plugs.

 

Well believe it not, I found everything I was looking for today. 96 Jets from a big name local engine builder and the power valve plugs and some extra gaskets on the shelf at our local Performance Parts Store. Not many of those left around about...we are crazy lucky in the Springfield, MO area to have Heddens Performance Parts still open!

 

So some Friday night test and tune burnouts?
With video

 

Well even though I found all the stuff, I knew I had no chance of getting home, doing all that needed to be done and still making it to the track. So I just fired the Model "A" and joined Dad at our usually Friday night cruise-in haunt.


Hopefully we will being doing some burnouts some where this afternoon!

 

Well for the first time in a very long time, Dad and I shut the shop door this afternoon feeling like we actually accomplished something positive. We finished changing out the carbs as planned (still boost referenced in the primaries but blocked off power valves and 97 jets in the secondaries. We upped the timing to between 34 and 35 degrees over all, fired it and adjusted the air bleeds to get the correct AFR which was about 12.7. AND we have two exciting things to report. First after allowing it to sit in the shop and run for 15 minutes or more several times, the temp never got over 200. And secondly:

 

Now you're cooking with Crisco!!!

 

Jackson you watching?

 

Yeah James I ain't scared. Yet Lol my Willys will do a way better burnout but the tires won't smoke that good but the new ones might lol guess I'll find out next Friday night


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We are headed to MOKAN Friday night!

 

Sounds like it's showdown next Friday night lol James you in on this lol


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I think he is thinking about making the trip...(in an advisory mode only)

 

It should be a good showing of the Willys putting you on the trailer lol you should ask James what that feels like he knows oh too well lmao


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I am looking forward to getting on the strip...there were several family member cars in my driveway today, left while they all went shopping. I only got Dad to shoot the one video (my finger slipped off the stupid line lock button on this one). The first two we really smoked up the neighborhood. But all the cars in the line of fire was totally freaking him out!

 

You keep that up and he might just show with his car after all!