COE Autocar Build Thread

Yes they are.

 

I've been making patch panels for the nose sheet metal, so I had to bolt on a front fender to see where I needed to trim the "chin". It was hanging down below the bumper, which I didn't like. After bolting on the fender, I am confronted with fact that the wheel is not centered in the opening. (I've known this since I built the fenders) I can think of 3 ways to deal with this, live with it as is, add a skirt at the back side of the fender, (made from matching tread plate) (I'm not sure it will look right) or move the whole axle back. Moving the axle would probable look the least "cobbled", but is by far the most work.
My wife says I'm being knit-picky! I'm open to ideas and discussion.

 

How about moving the body ahead a couple inches?

 

Thanks for the response! Your suggestion would fix the problem, but would be a ton of work! Pivot points for the cab tip are nearly as far forward as they can go. If I move the cab forward, I'd have to move the bed to match, then reposition the rear fenders to the rear. Front bumper would have to be modified.
I have to take a couple days off to go watch my granddaughter perform in a play, 9 hours of driving will give me time to think about the tire/fender problem. When I get back home, I will do some Cardboard Aided Design to mock up a skirt/filler panel behind the tire. and see how that looks

 

Rudimentary Paint "work". sort of mimic the front 3 angles...

 

I always thought that when the tire is to small for the wheel opening, moving it ahead a little makes it look better. I don't think a filler would look good with the style of fender you have. Short of remaking the fender, or removing some of the forward lip and or moving the axle back, I would say live with it. When things get painted it may not look so bad, which it doesn't to me now.

 

I know it has suicide doors but maybe a recessed footstep incorporated into the proposed filler panel similar to this one would make it purposeful and not an after thought. That might help access washing the rear side windows too.

 

Hey guys thanks for your thoughts! Wetskier, what you have drawn will be my first CAD try, I have matching tread plate, so it may look good. HJ, I like your idea also. I have several camouflaging ideas, A mud flap hanging in the opening is one my wife thought of and I realized last night that a "gerry can" will fit in the area just above the rear of the fender and that may change the look some.

 

Your welcome. whatever you do just be mindful of the turning geometry of the front wheels in full lock. When I did the pit fender design for the Autocar Constktor II in the late 70s the amount of movement during the chassis flex testing was a surprise. Just Say'n.

Here is a pic of the protype that I designed. (with some damage after 40+ years)

 

Cardboard and duct tape time!
Three slightly different modifications
First is to mirror the front side. I don't like the very short horizontal section at the top. (somewhat hidden by the tape)

Second, I moved the cardboard piece back 1 1/2" and removed the top angle to give a bit more length to the top piece.
Third, I moved the cardboard back another 1 1/2"
I'm not read exited by any of these. I think I will experiment with moving the axle, but that will have to be done on the drafting board, or by someone with photoshop capabilities. (hint hint)
Back to welding patch panels on the nose!

 

I like #1, maybe a little more fully horizontal piece and a little less of the 3rd angle up on the rear..

Here's a rudimentary move of the front axle...

 

2nd CAD looks best of the 3 to me. Dumb question, why not make the opening rounded to match the tire instead of all the odd angles?

 

The edge of the fender is 1x2 tubing and I had no way to make a smooth bend in it. I was forced to do a 0, 30, 60, 90 to mimic the door bottom as close as I could.
Darn it wetskier, I like the set back axle the best. LOL (but I'll probably end up with CAD #2 as it is much quicker and easier)
Thanks to all for your suggestions!

 

Feel free to call on me to make your project more complex!

 

Take some 1/8 the x 2 inch flat stock, tack to front of fender, curve it around tire , drop down about three inches at back, and fill in with 16 gauge stock, making the opening round to fit tire.
Just ignore the tubing and weld flat stock to it,, letting flat stock protrude about 1/8 of an inch, fill as need after the weld .
at the back, make a "skirt" to deflect debris, down about 3 inches , kinda like a "mud flap...
Cut a kink in the original fender, at about the 10 o'clock area, bring it forward
FIRST !!!!!!

COME ON, YOU HAVE ALREADY DONE THE HARD PARTS !!!!!!!

 

Work is progressing and I've now got a glass setting question. Anyone have experience in a glass shop?
The original windshields were swing-out style and I don't want to re-use that style. I want to use butyl setting tape which requires some changing to the opening. I need to weld in a flange for the glass/setting ribbon to lay against.
Looking at the drawing, I need to replicate the pinchweld. I need to know where that is compared to the roofline. Things I know: setting ribbon is 3/8" dia., but I know the ribbon squashes down some, glass is 1/4" thick, I want the glass to be just below the "roofline". Is the pinchweld 5/8" below the roofline enough? On the side windows I have 3/4" and it looks too deep.

 

I found a glass company that isn't afraid of custom work and the "old guy" (who is younger than me) told me 9/16th is the perfect depth for the pinch weld. There was a great deal more work, that just welding in a strip. I had to change the opening to get the correct relationship between the pinchweld and the surrounding roofline. (think below the opening) I'm confident that I can get the glass to glue in, seal, and a molding will fill the gap properly now.
Since I finished that bit of the project, I've been sanding paint and old cheap primer off the rest of the cab so I could spray the "good" epoxy primer and this evening I sprayed the rest of the cab.

Now that the outside of the truck is "weatherproof," I can drag it outside, so I can tilt the cab and work on preparing the engine for fire-up. Fuel system, cooling system, setting valves, making brackets for alternator and A/C compressor, and a hundred other little things.
Oh yeah, I shortened the grille opening and added a more military style grille.

 

Go man go!!! It's really coming along... You'll be ready for the August COE COeNVOY at this rate.

 

Got it outside today, added the fenders and took a couple pictures. Next will be standing the cab on its nose so I can do engine prep and fire-up! Whoop Whoop!
A while back, I pulled my alternator (mounted to the back of the engine) to make transmission removal easier. As I was unbolting it, my normally dependable left hand decided that this would be a perfect time to take a break and I dropped the alternator from chest height to the concrete floor. Now, my alternator will not turn. I'm afraid what this might cost me as it is a "big truck" direct drive flange mount type made by Leece Neville. I can convert to a GM one wire pulley drive, (don't know where I might find brackets to fit a Detroit) but the original is a nice package that is easily accessible from the back of the engine.
We do have a local rebuilder who specializes in the odd stuff, but he isn't cheap.
Can't add a picture!

 

Aha, one can't add files in edit mode!

 

Here's a couple more pics from today.

 

so nice to see it outside... Looks fantastic! You need more batteries...

 

Yeah, I can probably hit 50 mph just with the starter. Shades of Tesla!

 

A face only a mother (or COE guy) could love...

 

Yup, that is the baby brother of mine. Class 5 or lighter.

 

I am using a dual brake master cylinder from a mid 70s GMC motorhome because the reservoirs are the same size. (both larger than most other MCs) I chose this one because of my extra set of brakes on my pusher axle.
Does it matter which port on the MC goes to which axle(s)? I have 2 vehicles in my yard (both hot rods that I have plumbed) and one is done each way with many miles on each car with no brake problems.
Does each port come with a different residual pressure valve?

 

Interesting question. I'd guess even 4 drums might be biased to the front. Of course that just my w a.g.

 

My wife just got home with our Ford Escape hybrid, the only way I can tell where the MC is, is by the plastic reservoir. I don't see any brake lines coming out of it, so no help there.
Most older cars with drum/drum setups used fully self energizing brakes on the front axle and regular half and half (one side energizing and the other side not on the rear)
Normally the factory brake biasing is done by choosing correctly sized components. usually the (so called proportioning valve is just a distribution block with a built in shuttle valve to block a large leak and switch to turn on a dash light when one side of the system has failed.
My system is going to have two biasing valves, one on the drive axle because I have a very front heavy truck and the other to more or less turn off the pusher axle brakes when it isn't in use.

 

Looking around on the 'net, seems front to front rear to rear, makes sense to me!

 

I've been busy on the Autocar, but not picture type stuff. I've spent most of the summer doing various plumbing projects, coolant, brakes, power steering and hydro-boost, plus building a hydraulic cab tilting system re-routing various push/pull cables. I know, it sounds like a few days of work, but I've spent the last 3 1/2 months working on this stuff.
The big news is; I got the engine fired up today, great oil pressure and no bad sounds, but OH LORD do I ever need mufflers. A Detroit Diesel running under a tin roof with straight pipes is a sound to behold!
A couple pictures of my plumbing nightmare!

My 2 biasing valves. They can be accessed through the front wheel opening, without tipping the cab.