COE Autocar Build Thread

It's lookin badass, my friend!

 

Thanks wetskier. I'm going to chalk this up as a great summer. In my mind, it looks like a few weeks of work and it took almost 5 months, I guess its true that time flies when you're having fun.
I can't wait to tear into the Triumph, it came from the factory with 68 hp (that feels like 30) and the Ford V6 has 140. It won't be a neck snapper, but in a 2000lb car it will surprise a few.

 

1. I've copied this part of the "Where have all the COE builds gone?????" thread here because I feel this discussion wasn't within the scope of that thread. My bad for not moving it sooner.
   
   
   
   
2. 
   Wolfcreek-Steve
   Member
   
   from Central Wisconsin
   
   1. COE's (Cab Over Engine)
   
   
   I'm trying to come up with a shifter knob for mine. Sounds pretty simple, but in my case, it needs (I want) to incorporate 3 toggle switches and a push/pull headlight switch. [turn signal, headlights, hi/lo beam, and overdrives (2)] I'm just not getting any bright ideas!
   General idea, but all wrong!
   
   
   Confucius say, "If you're the smartest person in the room, you're in the wrong room."
   Wolfcreek-Steve, Sunday at 11:37 AM Edit Delete !Report!
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3. 
   SpagScot
   Member
   
   from S. Alberta
   I cannot view many of the .jpg images posted on the site so I can't see your "general idea" post Wolfcreek. But the gadgetry of what you describe caused me to think of the auto shifter I am considering for my own:
   
   https://www.powertraincontrolsoluti...ucts/Electronic_Shifters/Push_Button_Shifter/
   
   I want to reduce as much clutter as possible between the two seats and put a padded console and storage unit there for my dog to ride with us and for some extra cab-based storage, possibly even cup holders at the front. So this PCS unit may be a great alternative to a column shift also. Pricey... but sometimes the right solution is worth it.
   
   Still planning though... but I have already located a supplier in my region.
   
   Without seeing your image I am****uming/imagining that you are going with a column shift (???). Could you not incorporate some of that on slim curved panel just behind the center of the steering wheel. Your shifter gear position indicator could still stand behind and above and or just in front and below? This would simplify wiring inside the column yes? No?
   
   SpagScot, Monday at 3:17 AM !Report!
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4. 
   wetskier2000
   Member
   
   from NH
   Aside from wondering why you'd want all that***** on the shifter, I got nothing.. I envision driving down the road and shutting off the headlights during an upshift. No other real estate for those switches?
   
   I think a shift knob like what would be a custom build. Maybe you could start with something, don't 18 wheelers have shift knobs with some*****ons? I also recall stock 2 speed rear ends with add-on push-pull knobs on the shifter. That might look right in your truck.
   
   wetskier2000, Monday at 10:19 AM !Report!
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5. 
   Wolfcreek-Steve
   Member
   
   from Central Wisconsin
   
   1. COE's (Cab Over Engine)
   
   
   Here's a link for you SpagScot. http://infinityaerospace.com/product/featured/military-style-stick-grips/
   Because of my unique truck and the parts I had available, a normal steering column was out of the question, so mine is home made with no provision for turnsignals or auto shifter. I am running an Allison 1000 which needs a PRND321 quadrant plus it has 2 electrically shifted overdrives. (computer normally shifts these) The dash in this cab is further from the seat than most, so reaching switches on it when turning and shifting would be a pain.
   Unfortunately the 3 switches I need are dpdt toggles and they are quite large, so packaging is my problem. The good news is, with the very cold weather, I can sit at the desk in my nice warm man cave, instead of beating my head against a frozen wall in my garage. If it was easy, everyone would be doing it!
   
   Confucius say, "If you're the smartest person in the room, you're in the wrong room."
   Wolfcreek-Steve, Monday at 11:25 AM Edit Delete !Report!
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6. 
   SpagScot
   Member
   
   from S. Alberta
   OK... I understand now that I have viewed the joy stick and read your rationale.
   
   How are your wood working skills? Perhaps design and carve/dremel/drill a scale model from wood or alternately resin block and then have the item produced with a 3D printer? Then again if you construct it from a resin block you might simply need to paint upon completion?
   
   The POR15 two part epoxy might be a useful material for developing the prototype(s) and even satisfy your needs for the end product. This material is stronger than steel when cured, yet easily drilled, tapped, and sanded/shaped to form. Shape it to fit your personal grip and tarsal reach as well? With all of the incredible industrial strength adhesives on the market you could also fix various metal components inside permanently once you get your design down pat. Inexpensive enough to complete multiple trials, but I think too that if you messed up... you could simply refill, add on more material to get to the final piece. Perhaps even using adhesive and ready rod inserts to add a "nodule" after the fact? I do know that you can press smaller bits into a void much like caulking and sand to shape as you proceed with a repair.
   
   https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Epoxy-Putty_p_54.html
   
   I keep this on hand at home always. Versatile is the key word here. Just yesterday recommended it to a friend who has a crazy number of choppers, Jeeps, and Mopars on the project list. Some hard to find and discontinued fittings can be reproduced with some patience and skill using this putty.
   
   And of course you could mill an aluminum block if you have the skills and equipment?
   
   You no doubt thrive on this already given what I witness with your skills: "Where there is a will, there is a way." You will solve this I have no doubt.
   
   Idea as well: Check out the used science lab equipment on eBay. I have dismantled old lab*****yzers for various worthwhile toggles and and fittings for the household lighting fixtures/lamps I build as a personal hobby. Colleges often send collections of these items off to auction houses at year's end. And the local genius tech at a nearby aggie research station or college, even electrical mtce dude at food processing facility may have the skill set and or advice you need to develop the controls! Maybe some aircraft mechanic at a nearby base that services crop sprayers has something in a box on shelf?
   
   SpagScot, Monday at 1:52 PM !Report!
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7. 
   RMR&C
   Member
   
   from NW Montana
   How about on the steering wheel itself? New cars have all kinds of stuff on the wheel......cruise control, stereo controls, etc. Even old Fords had the light switch on the wheel......
   
   My lakes inspired '34 Plymouth sedan build
   https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1934-plymouth-2-door-sedan-build.1086459/
   RMR&C, Monday at 10:35 PM !Report!
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8. 
   Wolfcreek-Steve
   Member
   
   from Central Wisconsin
   
   1. COE's (Cab Over Engine)
   
   
   Ultimately I want it to be some sort of exotic hardwood, maybe a laminated block. I have some really nice tiger tail maple but it is all 3/4 thick and would have to be milled thinner because of a poor planing job.
   I bought a 3' stick of 2x2 poplar to use for mocking up some ideas I have, got that gluing tonight, so I'll start carving on it tomorrow.
   Modern steering wheels have a multi lead clock spring deallybob in them to carry the current from the switches to the outside of the column, but transfering the system from modern car to home made column would be a lot of headaches I think.
   If I can't make something work on the shifter, I'll probably make a switch console along side the shifter and an 8 ball for a knob. (I also have an ebay cheap repop Autocar knob)
   A picture of my column. It will get dressed up with some type of cover or shroud, haven't given a lot of thought to interior decor.
   
   
   Confucius say, "If you're the smartest person in the room, you're in the wrong room."
   Wolfcreek-Steve, Yesterday at 12:15 AM Edit Delete !Report!
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9. 
   wetskier2000
   Member
   
   from NH
   I love "The Gauge Can 6"!
   Just a cover on your steering column support channel stock could house switches within reach. Either on top or on the side. On the turn signals, I'd still lean towards a traditional Willys unit even if the self cancel wheel won't work so the UI is similar to most other vehicles. You could then use your fancy shifter*****ons for the trans, OD and NOS.
   
   wetskier2000, Yesterday at 7:54 AM !Report!
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After inletting the switches into my glued up chunk of poplar yesterday, today I really tackled carving what was in my mind. Realize this carving is a proof of concept prototype so don't let the fit and finish get to you.
It looks a little clunky yet but I can work that out on the real one.
I have given up on the push/pull overdrive switch, I found an industrial off/on/on rotary switch (in my junk pile) that I'll put just behind the shifter where it will still be easily accessible.
Turnsignals are lower left, high/low beam is upper left, headlights of/off/flash upper right.
Now I need a really exiting piece of wood!

 

I gotta admit... that's pretty slick...

 

Looks great , functional , and wood is fun to work with sitting in your easy chair in front of a fire . Thinking of carving a knob for my model A . Blue

 

Started digging around in my special wood stash and came up with a piece of black cherry and a piece of curly maple, resawed them to 3/8 thick and will glue up the 22 pieces tomorrow. The cherry grew on the farm I grew up on, 40 years ago my dad let me cut the tree as I was looking forward to building cabinets in my kitchen. 40 years later I've remodeled the kitchen and saved a few pieces for special projects like this. The maple also has a special story. About the same 40 years ago, I needed some form lumber for a concrete project I was building. My F-I-L had just cut some logs and sold them to a neighbor that had a small sawmill and was cutting cants for railroad ties. I went over to the sawmill and asked if he had any lumber I could use for forms. He told me $10 for that pile over there. probably 500 bf of mixed hardwood, not quite what I had in mind, but them I spotted the curly maple boards. I almost sprained my arm rushing to get the 10 spot out of my wallet. Wrong kind of lumber, way more than I needed, but I giggled all the way home. Anyway that curly maple came off the piece of land I live on now. I'm getting to be a sentimental old fart, ain't I!

 

40 years ago! That is something to be sentimental about. Also I need to let the wife and friends read this story. I have friends who joke about having helped me move the same boxes of junk bits of wood half way across the province and three time since. And the wife is always remarking about my rat pack tendencies. Like you I have some great bits of apple, cherry, forgotten this and that just waiting for that special project... but I can only claim back to 39 years for the apple. Chuckle.

 

I'm just about done with the shifter knob, (hard to call it a knob) All that is left is 600 grit sanding and a finish applied. When working as a tool maker I quite often had to stamp part # and such, I certainly have gotten out of practice. The left -right stamping leaves a bit to be desired and that cover might get replaced. Wife says it looks good enough for her though.

This view only looks like a naughty toy if you have a sick mind!

Note the little aluminum tube at the bottom. This will have an LED in it and serve as a gear position indicator, both day and night.

 

Looks really nice Steve . Can’t wait to see it in finish? Blue

 

Incredible!

 

Still colder than hell up here in the sticks, so I pulled these out from under the bench for a clean-up. (cast them a couple of years ago) They are roughly the same size and shape as a Moon pedal, but with my own checkering style and of course the Autocar logo.
The rough one will get the opposite "side fence" removed so you will be able to slide your foot from one to the other easily.

 

The Autocar has been in the back shed for a year now, (other projects needed attention) but I've been doing some thinking about seats and interior panels, and want to get started on a pair of bomber seats soon. I've kind of moved away from a gloss painted exterior and more toward an old military look. Would the sleeper fit that look, or would it stick out like a sore thumb?

I really like this interior look, (a little better padding on the seats) am I crazy?

The military look fits with these WWII ads

Ideas and opinions are always welcome!

 

I think that interior and paint scheme would really suit your autocar. Only thing I question would be how much noise comes from a mostly metal interior?

 

I've got a roll of 1/8" closed cell foam that I would sandwich between the panels and the cab structure. Being a small cab, I hope the acoustics wouldn't be as bad as a gymnasium.

 

how are you going to hide the wires from the switches?

 

I've drilled a hole full length of the shifter so the wires come out the bottom, then down into the shifter base and console

 

Do you cast parts for other crazy COE people? I want to put a small aluminum wing behind my cab...would love to have cast brackets. Don't have the faintest idea how to start.

 

Sorry, I don't. Making patterns, even for simple stuff take a ton of time, then, because I'm an amateur, getting a good molded part usually requires many tries and changes to the pattern and mold. This all takes time and as one ages, he realizes time is the most precious of commodities.

 

A local fellow made a series of aluminum casts as a project for his architectural degree. Seeing that work I was inspired and Googled "How to cast aluminum" online. There is a wealth of suggestions and step by step posts available. Hoping to try it one day.

 

I was fortunate to work in a foundry as a young man, hated the place but learned enough along with http://www.alloyavenue.com/vb/forum.php to get started.
This guy on YouTube is one of the really good sources of info. https://www.youtube.com/user/myfordboy
Stay away from the king of random, he will get you hurt! https://www.youtube.com/user/01032010814

 

no problem. I'll just cry myself to sleep...

 

Just call me the "Holey Man."
Jamey Jordan I'm not, but I've spent the past week getting started on my seats. .080 aluminum with lots of little holes for rivets.
I've decided to go with a fairly plain design, maybe a couple lightening holes adjacent to the seat belt hole, but probably no bead rolling
My aluminum is scratched up pretty bad so I will have to do lots of sanding before a Scotchbrite brushed finish.


What better upholstery material for a military look than a dark green canvas tarp? Menards had this 8' x 10' tarp for $33.

Another day of drilling and deburring holes and I should be ready to do the leaf brake work, then start****embling. Hopefully I'll end up with a seat that looks something like this one off the internet.

 

Looks great Steve , I love bucking rivets. Working on a new seat for my stool to use for beadrolling . Still got a little more rolling to do am the back panels. Should let people know not to bother me while I’m trying to stay in the lines . Have fun . Blue

 

Here's a rough draft, had to make sure they fit where they're supposed to.
There is still a lot of work to do, front has to be boxed in, an angled bracket has to be built to mate the seat to the air ride pedestal. various gussets and stiffeners built, etc. Because the seat moves up and down, the seat belts have to be mounted to the seat, not the floor, so I have some engineering to do for that yet.

 

wow

 

Couldn't wait any longer, set a few rivets today! I started with the stuff that doesn't show.
Flush rivets on the seat back, these hold some stiffeners on the back side. Notice the little bracket that will hold some sort of seat belt guide.

After that was done I started on a side panel, this was 3 thicknesses and the inside can't have any rivet tails sticking out, so I had to get creative. Round head on the outside, countersunk hole on the inside, then by cutting the rivet to just the right length, I could buck the tail out into the c'sink and end up flush and smooth. You tube doesn't show you how to do this!

Wife says it looks good enough for the girls that will get to ride in it!

 

Looks great Steve . You’ve done that before . Blue

 

God is my witness, hand on a Bible, I never did any rivet bucking before! About a dozen practice rivets to get my length right, then I went for it.

 

I got the seats finished to the point of painting them, wife has a strict rule about paint in the house and the garage is so cold I have to scrape the "tracked in" snow off the floor, so they will wait until spring for paint. Meanwhile I am waiting for my upholsterer to tell me exact dimensions for the plywood cushion bases.
Getting that edge trim formed and bent to fit was the most difficult part of the project.
Note the reinforced tab at the lower rear corner, this is where the seatbelt will fasten on with a 1/2" threaded rod passing across the whole underside of the seat. I will then mount cables from that threaded rod back to the cab structure. The shoulder belt will also be tethered to the cab structure. Hope I never have to find out, but I'm sure it will be strong enough to hold both me and the seat in the truck in a crash.