Autolite 4100 carb replacement for 64 galaxie

thunderplex, im not interested in selling it at this time. Im going to have it rebuilt or I may try it myself.

 

I rebuilt many of these while working at a Linc/Merc dealer. As far as someone having a problem with several shops working on them I would say that person missed something on the rebuild. (Lo-Fi, that sounds like someone messed up on the accelerator pump linkage adjustment or left out the check ball in the bottom the pump housing for be stalling like that... its too lean. That is very fixable.)
With the float bowl cover (top) off invert it and check the front edge of the housing with a straight edge. You will find it warped between the two front screws at the accelerator pump housing. I have always saved the old gasket and cut the section out between the two screws and inserted it on top of the new gasket between the screws when reinstalling the cover. You cant do a good job trying to hammer the top back straight. 2100, 2150, 4100, and 4150 were great carbs.
Now the 2700 and 7200 series VV carbs were a major problem but were great job security in the late 70s and 80s. A carb rebuild is only as good as the rebuilder. Replacement carbs may never have the correct calibration (springs, check valves, etc) as the original that came with the car. Most rebuilders have a 'one carb fits all' mentality for our older cars which could lead to a vehicle that never runs just quite right. After all, the manufactures spent millions and millions of dollars to calibrate a specific carb to a specific vehicle.

 

You don't even want to know what the engine rebuild cost me. But I'll tell you anyways. It was a complete ground up rebuild, with new pistons, connecting rods, valve job, etc. It was about $3800 here locally. Engine runs great, just can't seem to get that damn carb straight.

 

I would rebuild the Autolite.The Autolite 4100 is the most dependable carb ever built,and very easy to rebuild.I would recommend a Hygrade rebuild kit as it is one of the few that includes the secondary diaphram.

 

...why would you not rebuild your Autolite?

Same with why would you not rebuild your own 390? Maybe that's just me, but I would never pay someone to build an engine for me. Save that labor cash or put better internals in with it.

 

Because I have no access to a garage or tools needed to do it, I have no clue how to rebuild an engine, and don't have the time to learn right now. Believe me I would love to know how, but at this point in my life some things are just best left to the experts.

 

When and if you rebuild your 4100 be sure to remove the stud on the air horn for the air cleaner,it holds the two parts together.. Watch your linkages as to how they are routed and get it clean then blow all orfices out with compressed air. Too bad your not in Montgomery,Al, I'd help you with it.

 

I am not trying to be an ***, so please dont take it that way. They do make books that break down everything, so the educational part is simplistic....just follow the directions. Same goes for the carb. As far as a garage, that ****s that you have none to use. My machine shop wanted $600 just to put my 289 together...thats not including tear down and cleaning, or paint...or any parts or gaskets. I would look for a friends garage for a few weeks and spin your own wrenches before I would pay someone that much. Just my honest opinion. If you lived closer, I would have you bring it in my garage for however long you needed to tear it down and build it up.

 

No worries. I didn't take it that way. I'm starting small with learning how to rebuild things... like the carb. Doesn't require too many tools and have found a wealth of knowledge on those things. The more I learn and read the more apt I am to try something as big as an engine next time. Hopefully by then I will have a garage.

 

summit has a holley made 4100 in 600 and 700 cfm.they are around 260 dollars.i bought one for my r-1 stude.works great. you might try it.

 

I just picked up a Holley 1850 600 cfm for real cheap at a swap meet. I'm wanting to swap it for my original and rebuilt (running well) Autolite 4100 just for fun. My original set up with the 4100 has a riser that has a port that acts as to PCV vacuum port. As most of you know, the Holley 1850 has PCV vacuum port on it. So my question is which one do I use when I hook up the Holley? And which port do I plug up? Thanks!

 

The one on the side of the Holley is for Power brakes but non the less you have enough vac ports to make any thing on your car work.

 

Hey Ray, So I should I plug that posrt up on the side of the Holley and keep the one hooked up on the back of the riser plate. I was kinda prepared to get a new riser (one without a port and just plug it into the Side port on the Holley.

Do you think it will give me that much more performance if I swap these carbs? I couldnt beat the deal with a stick. I got the carb for $30 yesterday at the sap in Conroe.

 

So, what happened with the 4100 carb??? Did you rebuild it??? How does it run??

 

It runs good! but I just couldnt beat the deal on this Holley. My bro-in-lax had it on his 32 coupe and said it ran great. He just took it off. I just want to see if it runs any different with the Holley on it. You think it will run any differently?

 

your 4100 is just as good and I don't think you will experience any better results but go ahead and try it out. It will give you additional experience and you can still use the riser or take it out.

 

have a 1966 tbird witha 428 fe. put a edelbrock on mine no regrets. fit on manifold started right up idle adjustment and drove it . not a fan of rebuilding older carbs you will chase problems that started 30 years ago . when new quaility parts are available why mess with old wornout parts.