Technical AV8 what flathead to use

A friend and I are building an AV8. I was going to get Vern Tardel's book on it but it is not available right now. SO I am asking those that have gone before me to help. Thanks in advance.

I have heard that the 8BA is longer and harder to fit in, has anyone done this and what are the pitfalls? Any other advice is greatly welcomed.

The plan is to use an unboxed Dagel frame and x-member, flat 8, C4 trans and 8" rear end. 4'' dropped axle reverse eye spring and split bones, the back gets a T spring hung off the front side of the rear end to get it low. Jim Ford

 

Everything you mentioned in the 3rd paragraph denounces a Vern setup.

Use the 8ab.

Like the wide five covers by the way. More info would be great.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0760309000?pc_redir=1406547314&robot_redir=1

Just ordered it 10 days ago and still not here. As far as flat heads that someone else's field. Good luck


"Insert Epic Quote Here"

 

The one that everyone seems to use is the 59AB. That's what Vern uses in the book.

 

Nothing new from me. The 59ab fits easier but I have had an 8BA in one. Tight fit, a thin fan, and it worked.

Neal

 

Thanks for the info. did you need to modify the firewall?

 

I fine tuned the firewall with a fair size hammer where the riser for the fuel pump sets. It took some beating but I did not have to do any cutting. The head on the right side also was very close to the firewall. This was in a '29.

Like I said before, it can be done but it is tight. I would go with the 59ab style for the first choice but the 8BA will fit.

Well, if I could figure out how to find a picture to post I would but it is not happening for me. The pictures are there but I am not finding them. I am too stupid for this ****.

 

They are aluminum and copy the original hub minus the cast in divot in the face. they sandwich between the wheel and adapter plate and are 3/16" thick at the wheel mounting surface. I use a stud that I cross drilled for a cotter pin, it is 5/8" NF just like the axle and it is held on with a nut on the back.

They will fit 1/2" wide five studs but can be opened up to 5/8" if need be. There is room in the back side to clear 4.5, 4.75, 5, and 5.5 lug patterns. On the 5x5.5 you need to make sure that the studs are not too long and the nuts need to be standard not extra tall.

The cost is $295 a pair plus $20 shipping (FREE SHIPPING FOR NOW), I am not set up to take cards or pay pal but a postal money order works best. Use conversation or call or email for address info to send money order. I hope that answers your questions. Jim Ford (Highway 101 Rod & Custom)

 

They are just covers ? Or adapters? ... Guess I'm a bit thick.

 

There are about a dozen of the Bishop-Tardel books on ebay right now. I'd order one of those. That book will save you lots of time and answer a lot of questions you may have. I have a copy and it is a great reference for building an AV8.

 

Thanks for the link. I ordered it. Jim

 

Auto matic and 8 inch? I suppose you will run disc brakes and radial tires too.

 

It's not my car. if it was it would have 37 rear wide five and juice brakes, dropped axle (the old fashion way torch and press) 39 trans and a 59A. Running the stock tank and gauges. Jim

 

I just went through 5 59A's and 2 8BA's to find one decent 59A and a flawless 8BA. You will probably use the best you have. An 8BA is about 1 3/8 longer at the pump pulleys. Best wishes for success.

 

Choices, ***uming you want to stuff the flathead in with minimal alterations to car:
If engine is going to be rebuilt, go with the best block; all are same BLOCK length and all can be built with the shortest setup. (to clarify...front machined surfaces are in the same place on all of 'em, and will easily adapt to whatever choice of parts needed)
If you keep all the front hardware stock on a late engine. '49 type, engine will be substantially longer than earlier combos because the (really ****...) distributor needs to have the rearmost pulleys moved considerably forward of 59A type. If rebuilding, just get a 59 cam and use early pumps and front hardware, all adaptations are simple and of course you can use the early heads too for traditional hotrod look.
Shortest setup is just early cam and distributor ('42 type is shortest), early single sheave pumps, remove front pulley sheave if 2-row crank pulley, and mount fan on generator (or generator front plate, if you are running multiple carbs and actual generator is offset). There's an old post somewhere on here in which I list out many of the parts lengths, measured from front machined surface of block. Everything mechanical swaps pretty easily '39-53, and you just choose the shortest stuff Ford made.

 

Bruce to the rescue! the man is just like his avatar, a walking library.

 

I used an 8ba with a t5 behind it I also flipped the firewall to fit the stock length hood

 

Thanks Bruce that is very helpful info. Jim

 

They are just covers, the adapters are available from **** Spadaro. Jim

 

just make sure if going to a crab dist on a 8ba to use the early timing gears not the 8ba and vice versa if going the other way............

 

Thanks! the wealth of info on the HAMB is invaluable. Jim

 

I have to agree with Bruce, If you use a 32 wishbone it will push the engine back to where you can use the Model A driveshaft and rear end if you want to go that way. I used the A steering box with a lot of mods with Reds headers as well. Glynn.

 

Nothing sacred about a Model A firewall. Just cut/recess it and you can use your flathead with all it's original stuff.
I have 2 coupes, one has a 59AB the other has 8BA. I recessed them both the same way. NO cooling problems. Fan is right where Ford intended. Still plenty of room inside. One of those coupes still has the original cowl gas tank.

 

I received my "How to Build a Traditional Ford Hot Rod" book from Amazon.com this weekend. What a great book. Jim