If you shoot that manifold long enough in a beadblaster, a while down each throat and up each port, it will come clean. As for the body, I'd do as the reasonable guys have said up above: Buy a car that rusted up to the doorhandles and transplant the top. Cut them right both through the posts and weld it back on. Measure, measure, measure again, then cut. But first make sure you weld plenty of temporary cross braces all over the inside of the body to prevent the thing getting out of whack when the lid is off the box.
It's not gonna help major cancer on the structure but if you need a cheap out on the roof tape over the pinholes on the outside and paint the inside with port 15. Follow the directions and it will full small pinholes and keep the rust at bay for ages. Won't fix major damage. You can repeat the process from the outside if the holes don't fill using foil tape inside. Just leave it there. You can pseudo repair/hide a lot on a budget if you have too. I did a 72 vinyl top nova for a guy once with holes as big as a quarter in the hood. He refused to replace the top so I discovered something similar to above with the addition of fibergl*** resin and filller top side. 2 days of roof sanding later it turned out the nicest paint job I'd ever done. A few weeks later he changes his mind and put the vinyl tip back on. Uggggggg. Not proud of that repair but I'm confident it will be there for many years to come. Sent from my SM-G920R4 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks I have one but something fell on that roof at some point in its past besides I keep looking at it and thinking 2 door conversion even though its rotted to hell i'm a saver lol
I thought of POR 15 right away but i'm not super stoked on it we did a truck frame at work a few years ago and believe me we were thorough about the prep ( it ****ed) regardless we had the same truck in recently and I was surprised at how many spots rust was coming through again
thanks for the pics Squablow really appreciated what about that old "naval jelly" or rust converter? can they be thinned down and sprayed? Just as a side comment remember that many products are not safe to weld on after they've been applied a fellow I heard of went blind and lost 60% of his lung capacity after welding on something that had been cleaned with brake cleaner the last thing he saw was a tiny puff of smoke
I agree with the others that say find another roof. That one isn't worth the time and trouble to repair. It wouldn't be that difficult to weld another one on or have a welder do it for you. I sold a good 56 roof to a guy about a year ago for 200 bucks so he could do the same thing.
I'm surprised by that. I did the inside and under side of my 48 delivery. 15 years and not a spec of return. I guess experiences vary. Sent from my SM-G920R4 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
"...cutting it off and dipping it or welding a better one on (these suggestions would be beyond my financial means and skill level)... ". I see a lot of parts, fenders & more than could be sold to help raise funds to pay off loan that you owe on this - pay debts first, then think about building another less damaged ride that would within your budget and a smoother learning curve to learn fabrication, etc.
Look thru MP&C's thread here and you will have a good idea of exactly what is there to fix, the sedan shape is only a little different. Not for the faint of heart. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/55-chevy-wagon-roof-repair.337728/
Do you understand that most "metal cleaning" stuff (like mol***es) that removes the rust will leave open holes where the rust was? If your roof now has "pits", after these treatments, you will have rust free holes with clean metal surrounding them. You will still have to cut out the Swiss cheese metal and replace it with new metal. The rust converters (POR15) crystallize the rust and supposedly seal it from the air so the rust is suppose to stop growing. With them you you are covering up the problem, then filing the voids with primmer, and covering them with a plastic filler. When that stuff works, it prolongs the eventual metal replacement process and makes it a more difficult job when the time comes. Rust is rust. The only way to really fix it is to replace it with new metal. Gene
Looking at the interior picture of the side structure and the header, you can see severe rust in between the pinch weld flanges...and pretty much everywhere else. Theres no magic wand for that stuff so don't waste your time looking. You either replace it all with new...or you cut off the outer skin and refabricate the internal structure using custom fabricated pieces or used donor pieces in much better shape. Maybe with the outer skin off the car you can repair the skin as well and put it back on. Thats IT. I've rebuilt some severely rust damaged cars using fabricated bits from old hoods etc...and theres no magic bullet. You roll up your sleeves and start fabricating...and it looks a lot worse before it starts looking better! Evaporust...thats almost funny. Take the rust out of those pinch welds and the thing will collapse! LoL The car is do-able for sure...but the fix isn't found in a 5 gal jug! More like a 5 lb roll of welding wire...so get to work!!! Heres a floor pan from an old hood skin. This dodge had NO bottom...but no aftermarket parts were used. Just repaired donor parts from a car heading to the dump and other parts fabricated from old hoods and door skins.
Rust repair is too expensive and time consuming. I learned a long time ago in this old car business is to start with the best rust free car you can afford. You'll be way ahead in the long run. Gary
I bought a 57 hardtop many years ago with a flip up sunroof....... Of course it had to go.... After warping the roof panel to hell welding in new metal..[emoji33], I replaced the whole roof by cutting thru the pillars. On the hardtop there are internal reinforcements that you can work around to make it very strong - not sure about 2dr. Suspect you can still find a reasonable , unrusted 2dr roof in the US. JUST BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE ALIGNMENT- use the doors to set gaps.
I have been cleaning rusty Kelsey Hayes wheels in white vinager couple a days on each side . 4 gallons in small tub some loss due to evaporation cause it is uncovered. Hose bulk off then a little brushing. I have cleaned model A block water jackets with this stuff.
-I used it on a greasy old bbq and man did it clean up good but I havent seen it used as a rust remover definitely a cheaper solution than evaporust or moles***es -Thanks man that is some detailed info and excellent pics I didn't find it in my earlier search -Jalopy Joker the debt is taken care of and was short term used mainly to swing the deal I have not disclosed what I did pay but lets just say it was a tidy sum and I would be quite the laughing stock to fold up shop over a little rust this is Canada eh....there is about $800 worth of so so condition fenders etc. tops so I would have to say lets agree to disagree -50Dodge even if I spend some time grinding a bubble or two out of the roof paint here and there a couple times over the next 20 years who cares? Its still a 57 chevy and thats the point -Hackerbilt Thanks alot for the suggestions and pics nice work! I definitely will have some welding and cutting to do -fms427 still not convinced I need a whole roof I think some combo of procedures will get the job done *no one has brought up the fact that some car still have vestiges of headliners thats why I was unable to see the damage on both my cars -Gman0046 I whole heartedly disagree absolutely completely you should try metal work its an endeavor that is rewarding on multiple levels **-Still haven't heard anyone weigh in on electrolysis?
from the information and opinions i've gathered so far this what seems reasonable: A) Hard Way -drill out spot welds and remove inner structure from 2 dr and 4dr. - media blast 2dr. inner/outer roof skin -determine if worth repair versus find another roof - amalgamate and repair/replace rotten substructure -copper paddle weld pinholes -cut patches from good areas of 4dr roof -weld in patch or patches if more become obvious -seal and paint B) Easier Way -media blast - cut patches -weld patches -use a rust remover or converter *as yet undetermined which one -seal and paint -wait and see and not get too pissed off if you missed a spot C) Easiest - throw some rust converter and paint on it - huck the windows in -**** the headliner -go motoring
Let me help a little A) Correct Way -drill out spot welds and remove inner structure from 2 dr and 4dr. - media blast 2dr. inner/outer roof skin -determine if worth repair versus find another roof (brace before moving on) - amalgamate and repair/replace rotten substructure -copper paddle weld pinholes -cut patches from good areas of 4dr roof -weld in patch or patches if more become obvious -seal and paint B) The no easier or quicker way -media blast - cut patches -weld patches -use a rust remover or converter *as yet undetermined which one -seal and paint -wait and see and not get too pissed off if you missed a spot C) The don't even think about it way Have you checked that structure of the car for more rust, floors , sills etc?
Torana Yes when I bought it I gave it a pretty good look see. I had to make a fairly quick decision and felt the roof was something I could deal with. Frame is solid and straight two underside body mount crossmember spots were going but the rest were good , floors are pretty solid except a few thin spots at the edges, rockers good, aside from the 1.5x1" patch on the roof panel in the pic there is a 3x3" swiss cheese area at the LH corner of the rear window (pretty typical here I've seen way worse) and a dollar size hole sort of in the middle?? (don't know why there) of the RH 1/4 that's about it pretty decent overall
Nailhead, your en***led to your opinion about the merits of doing rust repair. I've done my share and know how difficult it is. To me its a PITA that takes up too much time and money. It also requires a considerable amount of skill. I'd rather spend my time driving my rust free 64 Biscayne for years instead of taking the time to do a complete resurrection of a rust bucket. You can disagree with me but I'll stick with my recommendation that its more cost effective to start with the best rust free car you can afford. I'd rather spend my time and money on driveline and suspension upgrades rather then repair rust. I'd venture to guess it would take years and 30K to 40K to finish a rusted and gutted 57. Just my opinion. Gary
Holy ****....what an improvement to the overall lines of the car! I bet thats how the stylist wanted it to look, but were restrained by Chevy holding the basic structure over from the 55-56. I gotta find that thread myself!
electrolysis? With how fast you want it done to even mention this is, well, a lot of work to say the least.
Danchuck sells roof panels. https://www.danchuk.com/danchuk1.aspx?Id=ebe87783-3b28-44e3-90e9-1142c9d4e118
Electrolysis? If you could get a tank big enough for the roof, where would you get a power supply big enough (a battery charger ain't gonna cut it)? I've been through the whole electrolysis thing, and in my opinion, it ain't worth it, even for small parts. An entire top? Fugitabou***.
If you decide to go with a 60 roof, I have a good 59 2 door sedan roof, (same as a 60), for sale. It's in Northern Illinois, though.
-Gman that is a nice car you are fortunate to be able to find rust free cars there are not too many of those up here. we also have several months when its not too enjoyable to take an old car out (especially if you want to keep rust to a minimum) so i'll have time to do some metal work which I find a fun pastime. I do see your point about buying the best car you can afford for me this was it -blowby thanks that's amazing! what a cool idea.....looks killer - johnboy & tubman I was thinking more of the manifold lol thats hilarious i'd have to have a swimming pool! -thanks l9fordy -thanks torkwrench I love it if I do cut the roof off this is the way to go - jalopy just in case I didn't mention before I have already purchased this car as well as a 4 door shell for the roof. when I ripped out the rest of the headliner it revealed that the roof had been hit at some point in the past. so i'm loath to go run out and buy another car just due to the fact this type of rust is probably going to be a common issue with most cars up here if they've been stored outside. I also think that investing time (and a little bit of money) can save a car that maybe some others would just junk. Part of the reason I love old cars is because I like to preserve and restore its old school but its the way I am wired
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