Electrolisys plates the iron oxide (rust) elsewhere. Good for smaller stuff, but difficult to do a whole car body.
No matter how hard you look a car over, you can miss rust. You can miss significant amounts of rust. If a car is made of steel, it is going to rust- no paint or coating is going to stop it, just slow it down a little. To me, the best way to fix this is to save up and buy the actual replacement panels. They will last longer than just coating the rust with encapsulator and they will be less headache than trying to patch the roof. I personally like saving cars- even ones that others think are long gone. It gives me a sense of accomplishment to see the vehicle running again- not something I get from buying a running car.
I have not gotten in to electrolysis yet but I have a ton of rusty metal I could use it for I'd just soapy water and wire brush it reasonably well then soak it in Evaporust. No point doing more than that in my book. Let the stuff in the bottle do the work. That's not quite what I meant when I said use RC. You misses the sanding/brushing down everything you can get to part. In a situation like this, the RC is really for the spots you can't get to. This is a viable option for getting on the road ASAP but it's probably a job you'll want to address again down the line when you have the money to do a new roof or do that nifty later roof install. With an immediate budget being short, I advocate doing this as a temporary (measured in years) measure; something you don't put an expensive paint job over but ride around in enjoying yourself until you're ready for stage 2.
-Thanks David i'm still looking into the various methods of rust removal in regard to the intake manifold. I've decided to try to restore it after all it is a numbers correct factory 4 brl. I think i'll try either the vinegar or electrolysis methods although interesting the mol***es method seems messy and not much less expensive then the chemical alternatives these are the most environmentally friendly and therefore worth a try just for ****s and giggles. I don't think blasting will get the runners and plenum clean -RR excellent advice and thanks for actually reading what I was asking instead of offering o/t opinions about whether or not I should have bought the car lol -Thanks Patmanta I will use that as a last resort if my other experiments fail I have given up on the rust converter due to the multi-layered construction of these pieces. It does work i've used it they convert rust from active red oxide to inert black oxide but work only on areas you are able to clean well and looks like **** when you paint it so its definitely not a long term solution but youre absolutely right that I plan on keeping and revising the car for years so It may be part of a reasonable short term plan to get the car rolling
What is that manifold worth if it were pristine? I have one sitting on the shelf, back in MN. With the original carb. Been so long since I've looked at it I don't even know what brand carb it is, but I am sure it was original to the 1962 327. Must be worth something cause there is a lot of concern about saving it.
Nailhead can you maybe cut the good pieces out of the 4 door roof and weld them into your 2 door? Between the 2 with some work you might get one good or good enough one? BTW I have had really good results with POR 15 on any rusty surface I have tried it on.Just make sure you have a bone dry clean surface.I usually clean the area to be PORd with lacquer thinner as final prep.
- Baldies i'm not sure I guess if someone was building a "numbers matching" '57 engine and wanted to switch over to a 4 brl. but otherwise I guess not too much... sentimental as it seems the fact that she looked it up on craigslist, even knew it was something I needed, that it is indeed a date correct '57 and picked it up herself as a surprise is pretty cool -steinauge the truck we did it on was really really rusty, the frame and body was not separated, and it had to be done on a hoist we were very thorough in our cleaning and following of the procedures. Of course the fact that we were working overhead made it a messy and unpleasant experience and the results were not as good as I've seen with people who have a bare ch***is and frames dipped or blasted first
Have you actually learned about the mol***es rust removal process? It is the most environmentally friendly method IMHO. Once the liquid is spent as far as rust removal goes, it is a great organic fertilizer for your garden or lawn. To start you mix it with hot water at 4 or 5 parts water to 1part mol***es. Make sure you have a lid on the tub for small parts, it slows down evaporation and keeps the wild yeasts at bay. I have used the same tub for over a year and you can top it up with more water , just slows the process a bit when it gets to about 10 to 1. I think you could construct a bath by hammering some stakes in the ground ( front lawn ) and nailing a perimeter of 2 x6 timber slightly bigger than your roof , then line the whole thing with a tarp or a pool liner. tip the body upside down in it and leave the roof in for a week or two... lift it , drain it and hose it off, check the rust and redo it if necessary. Whatever you do dry it off really well once you are happy with the surface and get some protection on it right away...paint or Gibbs oil or something similar, do it on a hot day , any moisture in the air and it will blush with rust . I use a leaf blower on big items to drive the water out before I paint the bare metal with Durepox primer . it would only take about 100 liters of mol***es for a "pool" 240cmx180cm x 15cm ( 8'x6'x6") about 500 liters (or 120 gallons) all up, with room for the roof before it overflows ...my guess which is probably way too big anyway. You can buy bulk mol***es in Abbotsford from a farm feed supply place relatively cheaply... like 60c a liter or less, I think the place i went to back in 2008 was called Otter co-op . so $60 around bux. You don't have to keep the liquid hot it just makes it easier to mix in the first place. If you save it in sealed 5 gallon pails filled to the top ( no air space ) it wont go off , you will have enough for a lifetime of small rusty parts.
Keep that intake and use it, she supported you, give her that respect she deserves. You can always modify later and don't sell it unless you ask her. Things like that mean something to women.
Somehow the thread watcher had failed to alert me to these replies, thanks guys. I had almost given up on this post as I seemed to be getting a lot of off topic answers and trippers who felt their opinion that I should junk my car mattered lmao.....97 I had seen a you tube video where a crazy guy literally cut a'36 3 w coupe (cringe, gasp, wtf???) into pieces !!! to soak it in a tub of mol***es after that I had night mares and felt there was something hinky about the whole vid since his pieces appeared to be shiny afterward....thanks a lot for the details about your personal experience. That's all this thread was about in the first place. Although I have no personal experience with them I know there are dozens of methods of rust removal fro acid dipping to mol***es. Let's hear some personal accounts..... Right now I have some rust on the splines of my powerglide i'd like to clean off without A) removing the shaft B) creating a bunch of dust and particles or anything that would fall or run into the trans....any ideas? Thanks El Caballo I think you're right on there and I will!
hmm... then I chance getting grit into the trans also these surfaces are supposed to be highly polished so which is worse sanding a bunch of grooves into where a seal is supposed to ride or s****ing lightly with something flat? something that could be dabbed on then rubbed off would be best for the trans. The yolk would have to be soaked in something as there are splines inside that cant be gotten to with emory cloth
get some of that purple stuff for rust removal. Pour it in a shallow vessel that is as deep as the exposed ****** shaft. tip the ****** on end so shaft is in purple filled vessel. Prop the ****** on some blocks a wood so you don't hafta hold it. Be sure to drain ****** before hand.
On one side I have a rag soaked in white vinegar on the other side a paste of baking soda and water, on top is a lime coated with salt and a potato with dish soap my battery charger is on the fritz so no electrolysis and no mol***es around the house
although the baking soda was the fastest reacting it turned brownish almost immediately overnight not much more happened so i'm saying #4 the potato/dish soap was at the back not bad but not as good as the salt/ lime so it's #3 the area where the salt /lime sat came out pretty good however the area around it turned black and rustier so anywhere with air exposure it actually got worse that being said it does seem to be faster than the potato and soda and the rind makes a good scrubber so #2 the clear winner is the area that sat up against the vinegar soaked rag.... vinegar is #1 for really tough spots use a folded piece of aluminum foil dipped in vinegar as a non invasive scrub pad
any chemists out there know of a powdery substance that can be mixed with vinegar without neutralizing it to form a paste?
Hoping to sort out whats going on with my charger (maybe byp*** the meter?) and test out the electrolysis and mol***es methods I have another rusty manifold someone gave me to experiment with
I tried Por15 on my 63 Catalina and it wasn't anything to write home about. I haven't tried the above methods but I have learned through this site and on both my old cars that rust only stops when its cut out and replaced with fresh metal.
cant cut the manifold up lol...i'll blast it out with water after to get it clean as possible then blow it out with air and leave it in the sun ideally this will be done just as the motor is close to running that way a layer of fuel coats the inside and prevent rust from reocurring As previously discussed the "new metal" thing requires finding a rust free roof i'm not going to find that in Canada unless someone junks a car that has always been garage kept ...why would someone do that? or shipping it from the states at great expense.... also i'm just not that interested in hacking up complete old cars....the answer is out there patience gl***hoppa
I was talking about the roof and the other spots you had mentioned earlier. I think that would be a good idea on the manifold, for sure keep it even if you cant use it, it would make a good wall ornament.
I've used mol***es a lot. I have a blue plastic 55 gallon barrel with a 4 to one [mol***es to water] solution. It's pretty used up now but has worked great in the past. The rusty iron/steel part must be submerged in the solution for a few days to a few weeks, depending on severity of rust corrosion. It's not gonna work on your top. There is structural damage to your top and it should be replaced with a better top.......the fastest and easiest way to fix it. Even if you were able to submerge your rusty top in a mol***es solution, there wouldn't be much left of it afterward. If I had your manifold, I'd soak it in mol***es. Cleans it inside and out.
shown50 there is a reply further back in the thread that details the correct and best way of repairing the original roof structure a lot of drilling out spot welds and cutting patches and tig welding to minimize warpage perhaps some day i'll be up for that but not now...I'd love to come across a good deal on a rust free fordor roof but for now i'm keeping both the roof and them anifold hopefully neither becomes wall art lol this car still has a roof so rust's not going to stop it from going on the road as soon as possible Rocky great thanks that will be my next experiment I have a 72 4 brl as well that I will do vinegar on as a comparison and i'd also like to compare these to electrolysis as well....the two shots are the worst of it I wouldn't say there'd be nothing left but welding a whole new one on brings in the spectre of windows not fitting etc no matter how well braced sticking two different cars together doesnt always work out if I were gonna go that route i'd do the '59 roof conversion might as well go all the way right?
Not sure if you would call this an update or not maybe a segue?....so '57 parts cars and or any '57 's just aren't that easy to turn up. I saw this lurking in the background of a Craigslist ad pic and inquired about it, hoping to find a useable roof, turns out the guy was just finishing stripping it for a wagon project so it had no front clip, no wiring, and no interior (exc. front seat) but did have a roof (rough) , front & rear gl***, and a complete ch***is. I wish I gave it a better inspection but I got all misty over saving it from that great s****yard in the sky and bought it for $400. For a little while I toyed with the idea of putting the car together since it came with clean regi and it still had gl*** (which the 2 dr. doesn't) and use it for the wedding. BUT.... even the most enthusiastic old iron savior would have been overwhelmed by the amount of rust. It was everywhere and mainly once I gave the roof a good look over it was dented and swiss cheesed to the point where it was not usable for the 2 door. So I thought why not scab it together as a runner until the other body was fixed up? then swap it onto this frame. To that end I picked up a set of inner fenders, a hood, some rough bumpers, and a fender for $300. and a '60 283 block and cast p/g for $100. unfortunately the block had been picked entirely clean except the oil pan (which had a hole in it and didn't fit the '57) and the p/g was rear mount. I sold the '60 p/g for $100. and picked up '57 p/g for $40. this came with no t/c so I pulled the seized six and and undid the p/g this didn't help as the bolts were inaccessible so a few whacks with a BFH busted up the bell extension and voila! I had a t/c. Next I found a rad support (6 w mounts cut off) and some unknown small block oil pan with a further back sump For $125. and a set of stock motor mount brackets for $75. a $40. dollar rad with the brackets unsoldered (so I can flip it around to V8) things were rolling along until.... the landlord's daughter announced they were hosting a wedding party in the yard....as a "wedding present" I decided the car was too much of a sore thumb and also came to the conclusion it was too far gone for my plans so I stripped it off the ch***is and sold the remains (the firewall/trans tunnel & trunk floor will be re-used in a '55 g***er project) for roughly what I paid for it minus towing and let 'er go to the happy hunting grounds....so I have a free (stripped) block, a $40. trans, a deeply scratched windsheild, a 4dr seat frame, a back window, a complete rolling no accidents ch***is, and a bunch of 4dr parts (doors etc.) for my $100. in towing (and a **** load of sweat equity) sorry these aren't early hot rod pics
Pine sol works great on carbs. Soak them in 5-1 of pine sol and water. Mol***es works the best. Make sure the parts are grease free and get as much paint off as possible. Soak for a week or three depending on rust and buff with a br*** wheel on a drill once the mol***es is washed off. They look like this.
Carbs soaked in pine sol come apart super nice and look like this once buffed up with a br*** tooth brush.
What happened to the thread on this 60 roof conversion? anyone know where to find it ,the other link does not work.
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