I just installed a B&M Unimatic shifter on a TH350. I installed all the brackets according to the instructions except one thing... The shift arm has 3 holes, and the instructions say for my trans to use the hole marked "F" for front... There was no way the cable end was going to reach that hole, so I took of the arm, and measure the distance between the pivot point and the center of the "F" hole and the center, or "C" hole, and it's about .125 difference. Since I didnt want to start cutting and welding brackets just yet, I re-installed everything, and adjusted it according to the instructions and all the detents seem to click at the same time, shifter and transmission...But I haven't fired the car for the first time yet, so I don't know Has anybody else had to make this deviation from the instructions? Did it work properly? After all the horse**** I went through with this shifter (cable missing from box, no swivel in the box, above the floor mounting, blah blah), I should have bought a Lokar, but you live and learn.
If you got a B&M shifter on a th350 that adjusted perfectly right out of the box and wasn't somehow ****ed up a little bit from day one.......Congratulations! It had to happen to somebody eventually!
There should be no reason to have to modify the arm for the cable attachment. I have a Quick Silver BM in one of my cars now. Had to change the arm on the trans to one in the kit, but it all bolted up and works through all the gears. Carl Hagan
Just guessing here, but what I think you are saying is that if it works at all, I should consider myself lucky... I'm thinking I'm going to have to make some changes to it anyway, if you sneeze, it'll move one click, so heavier detent springs are in order, and I'm going to shorten the handle too, which may help slightly. I made a new swivel, better than the one that was supposed to come with it, with a bronze sleeve bushing and lock nuts, so I was thinking that the swivel design might have made a difference, but theirs is the same, but has steel on steel and uses a cotterpin to hold it to the arm. If it is a problem, I'll just weld up the hole and re-drill it the same distance from the pivot as the "F" hole is. This shifter deal is turning into a time consuming "F" hole.
They all do if the end result works right. Have installed a bunch of different brands and sorted out even more botched installs, and they're all cranky *******s. But B&Ms are the crankiest IMO. Their th350 arm used in all the cable kits needs a hole right in between the available holes. 25 years, they still haven't changed it to work right. Cable routing is king. Good luck
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