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Hot Rods B4Cdan, or Just Another AV8 Build Thread!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by brett4christ, Jan 5, 2013.

  1. drdave, flat 39 and Grandadeo like this.
  2. I like your ingenuity on that column drop. Good job!
     
    brett4christ likes this.
  3. Quick parts acquisition update:

    I needed to make a decision on my steering wheel, knowing it needed to be a pre-war unit. I decided on a '36 car wheel that @IronTrap had on his parts IG and a deal was struck. Once delivered, I placed it loosely on the column to check the look and placement...I think it works!

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    I also received my goody box from Van Pelt Sales...

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  4. I have been piecing together an oxy-acetylene torch set and finally have what I need for heating/bending, so I set out on an adventure last night.

    I had purchased round-back spindles that had dropped steering arms, but the ends of the arms were too low to use the dropped tie rod ends that I wanted to use. I heated and bent the arms 1) twisted down more to better clear the axle, then 2) repositioning the ends to be parallel with the ground, and finally 3) adjusted to the right height to give clearance (both maximum ground and minimum wishbone) Let them cool, attached the tie rod and BAM It's done.

    Photos are straight and full-lock (and then some) clearances for each side.

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  5. Another piece to the B4Cdan puzzle....

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    Offy 2x2 intake that allows the long generator AND lowers the gen mount! So now I don't have to trim the fan!!! I did have to "clock" the fuel bowl so it would not hit the firewall.

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    Now to find some carburetor risers!

    As Johnny Cash says..."one piece at a time!"
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2023
    drdave and Just Gary like this.
  6. Brett, this is a really cool build. :cool:
    Glad to see you're fine-tuning all the cool parts to make them fit together beautifully- the motor mounts, pedals, SW gauges, column drop, spindles, retaining a mechanical fan, yada, yada, yada...
     
    Algoma56 and drdave like this.
  7. Thanks @Just Gary

    It's been fun figuring stuff out THEN executing with what few tools I have.
     
    Algoma56 and drdave like this.
  8. Another task checked off my list...carburetors rebuilt!

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    @scootermcrad and I tackled these on Saturday during a long-overdue visit with all the McRads!

    I wanted to keep them aged, so they would match the rest of the car and parts. I still have to pull out the 8.5 PVs and install 3.5s, but everything else is rebuilt, reconditioned, or replaced. Shafts are tight, linkages operate smoothly. Going to have them hard-linked so they are non-progressive. I may start the engine with one carb on the old original intake...we'll see...
     
  9. Better shot of the carbs....

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    Jeff34, drdave and Grandadeo like this.
  10. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,186

    Jeff34
    Member

    Great build! Lovin it so far. It looks like you're going with cross-steer. You've lowered the column below the pedals to get behind the flathead. Are you going to use a U-Joint at the end of the column going forward to the steering box?
     
  11. @Jeff34 Thanks for the positive reinforcements!

    I am using an F1 steering box and pitman arm. The steering box is roughly in the same location as the Model A box, but the steering shaft enters the F1 box at the bottom versus at the top for the Model A. That gives the appearance of it being lowered. The spindles are 39/40 units that utilized cross-steer. The cross-steer boss will eventually be removed from the passenger spindle.

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    drdave, Jeff34 and Grandadeo like this.
  12. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,186

    Jeff34
    Member

    Thanks! I saw the tie rod and the second hole on the passenger side. Thought you might be doing side steer. Great work on this!
     
  13. Got a goodie box this weekend....

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    2" carburetor risers and linkage for straight 2x2, non-progressive!

    I know the linkage may be the easy way out, but remember, I still have to imagineer rest of the throttle assembly!
     
    drdave, Jeff34 and Grandadeo like this.
  14. Had the afternoon off and it was nice outside...

    I've been holding this '40 banjo for several years for B4Cdan and yesterday I drug it up to the garage and started disassembly. Pulled the wishbones off, set it up on my axle bell stands and removed the torque tube/driveshaft. The input/pinion shaft looks better than expected.

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    Hubs removed, it's VIVIDLY evident that someone has been in this unit, at least this far...

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    Keyways look good. I was worried about these, but a pleasant surprise!

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    Backing plates removed...

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    But I did find one problem....

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    Dannerr, Dog_Patch, drdave and 3 others like this.
  15. Long overdue update....

    I have sourced a replacement axle shaft, so that's taken care of. Unfortunately, I also discovered the axle tube on the opposite side has a broken zerk fitting that I can't seem to extract, so I may be in the market for a passenger side axle tube for a '39-'40 V8 rear.

    On a positive note, I've been tinkering with the carburetor linkages and sorting out the throttle design. I picked up an early Ford V8 throttle pedal (seen in the second fuel line photo below) and a link assembly to tie the two 94s together. To marry the two, I used a banger control rod, cut, threaded, and joined via coupling nut/jam nuts. The return spring might not be enough for return to zero position, so I may need an assisting spring on one of the carburetors. Stay tuned....

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    With the throttle geometry complete, I turned to the fuel lines. I purchased a HF flaring kit and proceeded to teach myself how to bubble flair for the Ford fittings. Still not perfected, but I'm getting the hang of it. I already had a good tubing bender, but not the skills to use it, so another learning curve "conquered".

    Purchased a couple lengths of pre-flared 5/16" brake/fuel line and started simple on the rear carb. Picked an ending point where I wanted my block (decided to use Swagelok double compression tee instead) to be and started from there. Carbs to fuel pump was fairly straightforward, so on to the run from tank petcock to fuel pump. Started at the petcock and targeted the run across the bottom of the firewall. Had a little trouble trying to figure out the bends, but remembered seeing someone modeling the run with filler rod. That worked like a charm! I will use only a small length of rubber hose between the firewall run and the fuel pump run (gap in third photo below) to reduce/eliminate vibration fatigue in the hard lines.

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    On to the next task...Getting the body separated from the chassis.
     
  16. Nice and clean!
     
    brett4christ likes this.
  17. Nice job on the lines Brett!
     
    brett4christ and Algoma56 like this.
  18. guthriesmith
    Joined: Aug 17, 2006
    Posts: 11,419

    guthriesmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

    Man, too bad you are so far away! I have a complete 40 rearend that I would donate to the cause but shipping it wouldn't be too feasible.
     
    brett4christ, Grandadeo and drdave like this.
  19. Thanks @guthriesmith ! I'll keep that stashed in the possibilities. I have friends that may be headed to the Arkaansas Mile in May...Might be able to set up a relay. I'll keep in touch.
     
    guthriesmith likes this.

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