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Technical Backing material for glass channels

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by txcr13, Jul 26, 2018.

  1. txcr13
    Joined: Feb 15, 2010
    Posts: 242

    txcr13
    Member

    Trying to get my window glass channels sorted out. Need some filler material to put between the channels and an area inside the door frame that doesn't support the channel, which allows it to sag out of position The piece I need is roughly 9/16"x 9/16" x 8" long with a taper. Need something I can shape without too much problem, and is fairly strong.

    Simple enough to cut a piece of cedar for what I need. Easy to work with, strong enough, weathers well. But, I am thinking that some of you guys are ahead of me on this, and wondering what some other durable material options are.
     
  2. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 5,376

    gene-koning
    Member

    Sounds like you are looking for the ridged window channel. Its a form-able steel channel lined on the inside with the fuzzy stuff the glass slides in. Many different car companies used the stuff and its available in several sizes. I bought the ridged channel for my Dodge through www.robertsmotorparts.com and it cost around $34 for an 8' piece. You can buy the ridged channels through ebay from several sources in several sizes, just be sure you get the ridged stuff. Gene
     
  3. txcr13
    Joined: Feb 15, 2010
    Posts: 242

    txcr13
    Member

    Thanks, Gene. I have the lined channels. What is needed is material to fill a gap and provide support under the channel. There are a couple of areas in the door frame where the channels curve and are unsupported for several inches, which makes them tough to keep in position, and seal to the door frame.
     
  4. Is this something temporary? I'm having trouble trying to visualize what you want to do. Got a picture?
     
  5. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 4,412

    southcross2631
    Member

    Need photos to see what you trying to do.
     
  6. txcr13
    Joined: Feb 15, 2010
    Posts: 242

    txcr13
    Member

    OK, hope these will help with understanding. This one shows the area of my door frame I am working on. The exact area involves the section between the yellow bands. Unable to load multiple images in this message, so will follow in more posts.
    door post one.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2018
  7. txcr13
    Joined: Feb 15, 2010
    Posts: 242

    txcr13
    Member

    Sorry, but when I try to insert another photo I keep getting the message "Security error occurred, go back, refresh page etc etc etc" but it doesn't work. Will keep trying to insert the other photos (which are he most explanatory) but its a real PITA now.
     
  8. txcr13
    Joined: Feb 15, 2010
    Posts: 242

    txcr13
    Member

    FINALLY got a second photo loaded.
    This shows the door post from the inside, with the u-channel fuzzy in place.
    I put the yellow tape in to show the void behind the channel. This is the area that needs some sort of support material, because when the channel is positioned in the mounting groove lower down inside the door (not visible in this photo), the channel moves back toward the outside of the door frame, and out of correct alignment with the inside of the door frame.
    Material behind the channel will prevent it from moving out of position.
    I have a piece of cedar shaped to fit, but just wondering if thee is something better??
    Thanks.
    door post three.jpg
     
  9. What was there from the factory, what car is it? The channel I used for my car has a stop feature that keeps it from migrating deeper into the door. You could simply epoxy a couple of stops against the door, not sure I'd want to use wood. Something plastic or aluminum comes to mind, check Ace Hardware. You could also screw it through the channel using a flat head screw. I did that with some of the brackets that supported my channel.
     
  10. Why not use regular window run channel, check with your local automotive trim shop,they usually have it in different thicknesses. HRP

    CLICK HERE
     
  11. txcr13
    Joined: Feb 15, 2010
    Posts: 242

    txcr13
    Member

    This is the correct thickness for the channel. It fits the rest of the door frame, just needs some backup in this one area.
     
  12. txcr13
    Joined: Feb 15, 2010
    Posts: 242

    txcr13
    Member

    1946 Studebaker Champion Business Coupe.
    The original channel had metal sides and spines in some areas which were stiff enough to eliminate the need for backing. It also had built-in fasteners which positioned it correctly, depth wise. The universal channel I'm using does not have the stiffness or fasteners required for this application.
    Epoxy of some material to the frame is the way to go. Not sure about wood either, hence this thread. Wish I had a piece of composite decking material to try. Should shape easily and last forever. I walked through Home Depot and didn't see anything that seemed a better answer so far.
     
  13. metlmunchr
    Joined: Jan 16, 2010
    Posts: 876

    metlmunchr
    Member

    High density polyethylene wouldn't absorb water like wood can over time. Whenever I need to make a few machined parts from HDPE I just go buy a cheap white plastic cutting board as that's what they're made from and a lot cheaper than buying anything in small quantities from a plastic supply place. HDPE is easy to work with as far as cutting and shaping. But if you need to epoxy it in place rather than attaching with some sort of fasteners then you'd need to modify the surface with some sort of grooves or holes for the epoxy to get a mechanical grip since epoxy or most other glues won't stick to plastics very well.
     
  14. enjenjo
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 2,767

    enjenjo
    Member
    from swanton oh

    I use high durometer ( about 60) neoprene rubber to space out the window channel. I glue it in place with urethane window adhesive.
     
  15. Find a piece of plastic trim base molding and chop a hunk out of that. I used a length to make a box for my floor jack in my trunk so its pretty tough. You may want to try Restoration Specialties for the correct channel if it exists.
     
  16. I'd use the cedar and move on to the next problem.....
     
  17. txcr13
    Joined: Feb 15, 2010
    Posts: 242

    txcr13
    Member

    I like the way you think. All things considered, that's the best way forward for this issue. Not the most appealing fix, but it will be effective.
     

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